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Old 12-24-2012, 12:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New Stereo Setup

I'm upgrading my sounds system in my 2011 Forester. I plan on getting 4 Polk Audio db651, 2 10" Kicker Comps (all speakers and subs are 4 ohms), with a Planet Audio AC1800.5 (5 channel amp), and a Pioneer AVH-P3400BH head unit. It's my first time getting a newer sound system and was wondering if this is a good setup and what all wires would I need? (Like 4 gauge, 8 gauge, brand, & ect.). Needing help with this and all help is much appreciated.
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Old 12-24-2012, 01:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It would probably be easiest to buy an amp install kit from Monster or someone else. It will most likely include a lot of what you need (power wire - 4 gauge should be good, ground wire, fuse block and fuse). Some come with the RCA cables that you will need if using the pre-outs on the head unit. Pick up some speaker wire as you will probably need it depending where you install the amp. I'd also get the adapter that allows you to plug into the factory harness instead of cutting and a dash kit if needed to get the head unit to fit in the dash properly.

Not trying to be rude, but it seems like you are skimping on the amp a bit. If possible, I would go with a better brand and know it's not all about the MAX power an amp will put out but more about the RMS or continuous power available.
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are you saying I need a more powerful amp? I understand that your saying a better brand but how many watts do you think I should get? The RMS for the speakers is 6-60 RMS with a peak of 180 watts and the subs are 50-150 RMS with a peak of 300 watts. I figured this would be a good amp since it puts out 300 each of the 4 channels and the last channel 600 at max but then again I don't know what I'm doing lol. So more wattage you think?
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you considered using a separate amp for the speaker and sub? Most speaker amps are class A, B, or AB and most sub amps are class D. I can't find much information on the amp you listed, I would be afraid that they tried to use a class D amp for the speakers and sub channel. Class Ds tend to have a lot of distortion in the audio to produce big power. When I did a stereo in my previous car, I used a Kicker 350.4 and a separate amp for the sub. Just try and match the RMS watts of the speakers/sub and amp(s).

You might want to get a book called The Car Stereo Cookbook. It will give you lots of good information of what to look for in speakers, amps, and so on. It also has lots of good info on installing if you are a do-it-your-self kind of guy.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 12-25-2012, 03:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Your amp is fine...

Im a fan of Kicker wire kits myself, ive got parts of 2 different ones in my car...

You can get kits with and without RCAs... Depending on how you connect it will depends weather you need 2-6pairs of RCAs, the 5ch amp give you maximum flexability



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Old 12-25-2012, 03:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePenguin View Post
Have you considered using a separate amp for the speaker and sub? Most speaker amps are class A, B, or AB and most sub amps are class D. I can't find much information on the amp you listed, I would be afraid that they tried to use a class D amp for the speakers and sub channel. Class Ds tend to have a lot of distortion in the audio to produce big power. When I did a stereo in my previous car, I used a Kicker 350.4 and a separate amp for the sub. Just try and match the RMS watts of the speakers/sub and amp(s).

You might want to get a book called The Car Stereo Cookbook. It will give you lots of good information of what to look for in speakers, amps, and so on. It also has lots of good info on installing if you are a do-it-your-self kind of guy.
Class D distortion is a thing of the past, when they first came out, sure, but now a days non-issues...

AFA learning car audio related things...
www.bcae1.com/
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