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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 311
Location: Redmond, WA
Car Year: 03
Car Model: Forester 2.5X
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto
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As the title suggests. Which wire is the wire to the unlock motor for the trunk? where is an easy place to get to it? Would snipping it/putting it on a switch effect anything else?
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#3 (permalink) |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,292
Location: Newberg, OR
Car Year: 2007
Car Model: Forester Sports XT
Transmission: 4EAT
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The wiring for the cargo hatch lock motor can be accessed in the cargo area, or in the hatch. Take a look at the wiring diagram below. You don't need the entire wiring diagram to do what you want to do.
![]() Good luck with your project! ![]() Bobby... ![]() The wiring coming down from the right side is the common wiring from the other door locks. You should be able to add a switch (either side) to deactivate the cargo hatch lock motor & it won't affect the other doors. connectors R38/D33 are located back behind the area where the cargo area 12V outlet is located. The other connectors are located in the hatch. Here's the color code Subaru uses for their wiring. ![]() ['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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#4 (permalink) |
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Taking a Walkabout in the Outback
Join Date: Jul 2012
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You "might" consider check out the switch that's already there... wouldn't be the first time a mechanical switch has failed, won't be the last I'm sure...
Of course, you could always hack into a system that's likely not been messed with... That's always a good idea.. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,279
Location: Dundas, Ontario, Canada
Car Year: 2008
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Can you hear the motor assembly click to unlock when it opens? Or is your hatch just randomly opening while you drive?
Based on your location I always think plenty of moisture (rain) so corrosion of some of the connections may be a cause of it, inspect and clean if necessary, use a little dielectric grease in the connections wouldn't hurt either, then test for a few days. And while you've probably done this already but lubing the latch assembly and related parts may also help. That's all I got.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Location: New London, NH
Car Year: 2003
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I think we need to clarify things a bit. By 'unlocking the trunk' it appears that the member means that he wants to be able to unlock the doors but leave the hatch locked. If this is the case, then Bobby's answer does a fine job addressing the situation. If on the other hand he means that the hatch flies open of its own volition, then this is a totally different matter, probably mechanical rather than electrical.
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2003 XS Premium MT >180k miles! ● 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS MT ● Robin-Subaru Powered Generator |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
If you "snip" the lock motor wire when the hatch is closed and locked, then I suspect you won't be able to open the hatch -- even manually from outside -- unless you first reconnect the circuit and send another unlock command to the lock motor. Similarly, if the hatch is physically open, then the hatch will mechanically close and latch, but I suspect it won't lock without a complete lock motor circuit. A discreetly located ON/OFF switch sounds like a viable solution. HTH, Jim / crewzer
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12 Forester 2.5X FB25 5MT Premium AWP PZEV 09 Forester 2.5X EJ25 5MT Premium AWP PZEV (sold 7/2011) Last edited by crewzer; 01-02-2013 at 07:36 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Yes, a 'user-selectable' snip, i.e. a switch.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
The mechanical lock would still work on an '00. If he disconnected the power lock wires from the hatch actuator, it would just keep the power lock switch from unlocking/locking the rear hatch. He would need to use a key any time he wants in the rear. Example: My driver's door lock actuator is broken. Mechanical lock still works. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,292
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Car Year: 2007
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'07 FSXT - COBB Surgeline dyno Protune - Stage 1+ '03 X +AVO turbo kit = XT (son's) '95 Neon Sport |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,292
Location: Newberg, OR
Car Year: 2007
Car Model: Forester Sports XT
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
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Feedback Score: 36 reviews
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Quote:
Bobby... ['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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#12 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 311
Location: Redmond, WA
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Haha yes Bobby, you would be correct.
Where does that mentioned wire run along the car, and where does it end up in the dash/doors? I don't exactly want to snip it inside the trunk latch. That will literally make it impossible to get into with the other stuff I'm doing. And I don't mean hard, I mean physically impossible. Not exactly the one way trip I want to take And to clarify for everyone: my lock/unlock mechanism works perfectly fine. I just don't want someone to be able to bust my window, hit the unlock switch, then have access to my goodies. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,292
Location: Newberg, OR
Car Year: 2007
Car Model: Forester Sports XT
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
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Feedback Score: 36 reviews
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I thought it had to do with your audio gear.
![]() The easiest place to access the wiring, outside of the hatch, is in that area behind the rear 12V outlet. You could cut & splice in wires that run to a switch in a remote, hidden location. ![]() Refer to my previous post for the connectors & wire colors. Bobby... ['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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'07 FSXT - COBB Surgeline dyno Protune - Stage 1+ '03 X +AVO turbo kit = XT (son's) '95 Neon Sport |
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