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#1201 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 110
Location: Northeast wisconsin
Car Year: 2004
Car Model: 2.5xs
Transmission: dont know how to drive auto
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...h-of-field.htm |
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#1202 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 292
Location: Hanover Pa.
Car Year: 1999
Car Model: Forester L
Transmission: 4 nom nom nom
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
please any first hands tips please feel free to share..
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#1203 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,263
Location: Floral City, FL
Car Year: 02
Car Model: SF-L
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
12
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Quote:
Your main settings for the camera are shutter speed, aperture and ISO. All three have their own adjustment but all three control exposure. ISO is how sensitive the camera will be to light, if you're shooting outdoors keep it low, if you're indoors or it's getting dark out you can turn it up a bit. Keep in mind the higher the ISO, the noiser(grainy) the picture will be. Shutter speed is the easiest to understand. If you want a sharp crisp image of something in motion, use a faster shutter speed(1/1000), if you want to show motion of something moving, use a slow shutter speed(1/15). Those numbers are fractions of a second, when the shutter speed says 1" or so on that means a one second exposure. Aperture is the last and somewhat hardest for most to understand. A small aperture is a big number(f/22) while a big aperture is a small number(f/2.8). The aperture is the size of the hole that allows the sensor to record the light. Higher the number, smaller the hole. A little confusing to think about but easy once you understand. A larger aperture will give you that depth of field you're looking for. Your camera focuses in distance, so if you stood 15ft away from a subject and had your aperture at f/1.4, everything in front of and behind that 15ft mark would be out of focus. Taking the same shot at f/22 would keep everything in focus. The lenses that can do larger/faster apertures are more expensive, but you can find third party lenses that don't cost as much as Nikkor lenses. Tamron, Sigma and Tokina are all decent third party lenses. Hope this all helps, feel free to PM me with any more questions. Definitely invest in a tripod. Also, if your camera came with the manual, read it from front to back as many times as you need until you know how to fully operate that camera. Learning your settings and what each button controls will help you out a lot. If it didn't come with the book you can always find one online. Always keep it in the camera bag just in case you need to reread something.
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My Member Journal Last edited by 02foresterL; 11-16-2012 at 01:26 PM. |
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#1204 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 292
Location: Hanover Pa.
Car Year: 1999
Car Model: Forester L
Transmission: 4 nom nom nom
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
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#1205 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 249
Location: Northeast Ohio
Car Year: 2012
Car Model: 2.5X Touring w/Nav
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
10
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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This isn't a great example, but I took this by following the car as it drove by and shooting a few pictures. The shutter speed was 1/30 sec. I removed most of the color just to help make the car standout more.
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2012 Forester 2.5X Touring 2010 Outback Sport Last edited by Harold B; 11-20-2012 at 08:56 AM. |
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#1206 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 249
Location: Northeast Ohio
Car Year: 2012
Car Model: 2.5X Touring w/Nav
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
10
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I followed the autorickshaw and took this picture (1/400 sec). The background had a very slight blur that I enhanced with Photoshop. I love there is an 007 sticker on the rear fender.
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2012 Forester 2.5X Touring 2010 Outback Sport |
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#1208 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,181
Location: murda was da colour dat they gave me!
Car Year: 01MY
Car Model: SF6
Transmission: 5MT
Gallery:
1
Feedback Score: 15 reviews
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randoms...
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romidontplaythat! ouiiiii... - two USDM SF6s Last edited by tallazzPilipino; 11-21-2012 at 09:16 PM. |
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#1209 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 936
Location: nyc
Car Year: 05
Car Model: forester xt 5mt
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
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haroldB
thats "panning " similar concept but much more dificult to match the speed of the camera to a object you can not control . lol |
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#1210 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 249
Location: Northeast Ohio
Car Year: 2012
Car Model: 2.5X Touring w/Nav
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
10
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
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2012 Forester 2.5X Touring 2010 Outback Sport |
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#1211 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 20,401
Location: Florence, KY
Car Year: 2006
Car Model: Forester XT
Transmission: 5 Speed
Gallery:
2
Feedback Score: 55 reviews
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Quote:
Basically you are correct. Im just ribbing you a little
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2007 Forester XT - The Gray Goose 2006 Forester XT - Blu-Blur 2010 Forester X - SOLD-The Green Goblin |
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#1212 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 22
Location: Anc, AK
Car Year: 2006
Car Model: Forester XT
Transmission: 5MT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Hunting for some Northern Lights a couple days ago.. didn't find any but had some fun with light none the less. :)
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06' FXT 5MT w/ Cobb Accessport "Stage 1" |
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#1215 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,263
Location: Floral City, FL
Car Year: 02
Car Model: SF-L
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
12
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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We used neutral and gave it a push to rid of any vibrations the motor would cause. I'm sure a first gear or automatic creep would work just as well. As far as the burnout with a Mach1, that's pushing it. I wouldn't risk my camera for that.
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