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Old 11-16-2012, 09:59 AM   #1201 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by theFozz99 View Post
Hey everyone. My brother and I just bought a new Nikon D5100 DLSR


We're both really into photography but looking at the camera and all the features it has it looks like its in another language to us lol... Mainly were looking to take really nice car photos that was the whole purpose of buying it... Spent a nice chunk of change on it too.. So we dont want it to go to waste lol... I was gonna put this thread on nasioc but they can be Dbags and i dont want the bashing and what not they do on there. I love my fozzy family way better anyway...

We were wondering how to do the "Depth of field" pics. also take rolling pics where the car looks like its stopped in time and the back is blurred out and moving like 1000 mph lol... Any tips and settings would be greatly appreciated. please lmk i really wanna persue this photography path..

Thanks everyone
Here's one of my favorite website for photography tutorial

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...h-of-field.htm
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:12 AM   #1202 (permalink)
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Here's one of my favorite website for photography tutorial

Understanding Depth of Field in Photography
thank you !. please any first hands tips please feel free to share..
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:18 PM   #1203 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by theFozz99 View Post
Hey everyone. My brother and I just bought a new Nikon D5100 DLSR

We're both really into photography but looking at the camera and all the features it has it looks like its in another language to us lol... Mainly were looking to take really nice car photos that was the whole purpose of buying it... Spent a nice chunk of change on it too.. So we dont want it to go to waste lol... I was gonna put this thread on nasioc but they can be Dbags and i dont want the bashing and what not they do on there. I love my fozzy family way better anyway...

We were wondering how to do the "Depth of field" pics. also take rolling pics where the car looks like its stopped in time and the back is blurred out and moving like 1000 mph lol... Any tips and settings would be greatly appreciated. please lmk i really wanna persue this photography path..

Thanks everyone
To sum it up in the easiest way, I'll explain all the settings. For starters, rolling shots are done with rigs. Usually a long pole with suction cups attaching it to the car and an arm at the end that holds the camera. The car is put in neutral, engine off, and pushed while the camera takes a picture at a very slow shutter speed. Since the camera and car are attached the car stays in focus while the background is trailed.

Your main settings for the camera are shutter speed, aperture and ISO. All three have their own adjustment but all three control exposure. ISO is how sensitive the camera will be to light, if you're shooting outdoors keep it low, if you're indoors or it's getting dark out you can turn it up a bit. Keep in mind the higher the ISO, the noiser(grainy) the picture will be. Shutter speed is the easiest to understand. If you want a sharp crisp image of something in motion, use a faster shutter speed(1/1000), if you want to show motion of something moving, use a slow shutter speed(1/15). Those numbers are fractions of a second, when the shutter speed says 1" or so on that means a one second exposure. Aperture is the last and somewhat hardest for most to understand. A small aperture is a big number(f/22) while a big aperture is a small number(f/2.8). The aperture is the size of the hole that allows the sensor to record the light. Higher the number, smaller the hole. A little confusing to think about but easy once you understand. A larger aperture will give you that depth of field you're looking for. Your camera focuses in distance, so if you stood 15ft away from a subject and had your aperture at f/1.4, everything in front of and behind that 15ft mark would be out of focus. Taking the same shot at f/22 would keep everything in focus. The lenses that can do larger/faster apertures are more expensive, but you can find third party lenses that don't cost as much as Nikkor lenses. Tamron, Sigma and Tokina are all decent third party lenses. Hope this all helps, feel free to PM me with any more questions. Definitely invest in a tripod.

Also, if your camera came with the manual, read it from front to back as many times as you need until you know how to fully operate that camera. Learning your settings and what each button controls will help you out a lot. If it didn't come with the book you can always find one online. Always keep it in the camera bag just in case you need to reread something.
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:25 PM   #1204 (permalink)
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To sum it up in the easiest way, I'll explain all the settings. For starters, rolling shots are done with rigs. Usually a long pole with suction cups attaching it to the car and an arm at the end that holds the camera. The car is put in neutral, engine off, and pushed while the camera takes a picture at a very slow shutter speed. Since the camera and car are attached the car stays in focus while the background is trailed.

Your main settings for the camera are shutter speed, aperture and ISO. All three have their own adjustment but all three control exposure. ISO is how sensitive the camera will be to light, if you're shooting outdoors keep it low, if you're indoors or it's getting dark out you can turn it up a bit. Keep in mind the higher the ISO, the noiser(grainy) the picture will be. Shutter speed is the easiest to understand. If you want a sharp crisp image of something in motion, use a faster shutter speed(1/1000), if you want to show motion of something moving, use a slow shutter speed(1/15). Those numbers are fractions of a second, when the shutter speed says 1" or so on that means a one second exposure. Aperture is the last and somewhat hardest for most to understand. A small aperture is a big number(f/22) while a big aperture is a small number(f/2.8). The aperture is the size of the hole that allows the sensor to record the light. Higher the number, smaller the hole. A little confusing to think about but easy once you understand. A larger aperture will give you that depth of field you're looking for. Your camera focuses in distance, so if you stood 15ft away from a subject and had your aperture at f/1.4, everything in front of and behind that 15ft mark would be out of focus. Taking the same shot at f/22 would keep everything in focus. The lenses that can do larger/faster apertures are more expensive, but you can find third party lenses that don't cost as much as Nikkor lenses. Tamron, Sigma and Tokina are all decent third party lenses. Hope this all helps, feel free to PM me with any more questions. Definitely invest in a tripod.

Also, if your camera came with the manual, read it from front to back as many times as you need until you know how to fully operate that camera. Learning your settings and what each button controls will help you out a lot. If it didn't come with the book you can always find one online. Always keep it in the camera bag just in case you need to reread something.
thanks man i appreciate it... i will be applying this hopefully this weekend....
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:00 AM   #1205 (permalink)
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This isn't a great example, but I took this by following the car as it drove by and shooting a few pictures. The shutter speed was 1/30 sec. I removed most of the color just to help make the car standout more.

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Old 11-20-2012, 08:36 AM   #1206 (permalink)
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I followed the autorickshaw and took this picture (1/400 sec). The background had a very slight blur that I enhanced with Photoshop. I love there is an 007 sticker on the rear fender.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:27 PM   #1207 (permalink)
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:47 PM   #1208 (permalink)
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randoms...





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Old 11-22-2012, 11:08 AM   #1209 (permalink)
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haroldB

thats "panning " similar concept but much more dificult to match the speed of the camera to a object you can not control . lol
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:32 PM   #1210 (permalink)
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haroldB

thats "panning " similar concept but much more dificult to match the speed of the camera to a object you can not control . lol
Yep, but you only need your camera and as long as you aren't charging someone money your fine.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:39 AM   #1211 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by 02foresterL View Post
To sum it up in the easiest way, I'll explain all the settings. For starters, rolling shots are done with rigs. Usually a long pole with suction cups attaching it to the car and an arm at the end that holds the camera. The car is put in neutral, engine off, and pushed while the camera takes a picture at a very slow shutter speed. Since the camera and car are attached the car stays in focus while the background is trailed.

Your main settings for the camera are shutter speed, aperture and ISO. All three have their own adjustment but all three control exposure. ISO is how sensitive the camera will be to light, if you're shooting outdoors keep it low, if you're indoors or it's getting dark out you can turn it up a bit. Keep in mind the higher the ISO, the noiser(grainy) the picture will be. Shutter speed is the easiest to understand. If you want a sharp crisp image of something in motion, use a faster shutter speed(1/1000), if you want to show motion of something moving, use a slow shutter speed(1/15). Those numbers are fractions of a second, when the shutter speed says 1" or so on that means a one second exposure. Aperture is the last and somewhat hardest for most to understand. A small aperture is a big number(f/22) while a big aperture is a small number(f/2.8). The aperture is the size of the hole that allows the sensor to record the light. Higher the number, smaller the hole. A little confusing to think about but easy once you understand. A larger aperture will give you that depth of field you're looking for. Your camera focuses in distance, so if you stood 15ft away from a subject and had your aperture at f/1.4, everything in front of and behind that 15ft mark would be out of focus. Taking the same shot at f/22 would keep everything in focus. The lenses that can do larger/faster apertures are more expensive, but you can find third party lenses that don't cost as much as Nikkor lenses. Tamron, Sigma and Tokina are all decent third party lenses. Hope this all helps, feel free to PM me with any more questions. Definitely invest in a tripod.

Also, if your camera came with the manual, read it from front to back as many times as you need until you know how to fully operate that camera. Learning your settings and what each button controls will help you out a lot. If it didn't come with the book you can always find one online. Always keep it in the camera bag just in case you need to reread something.
We do our rig shots with the car on and running in gear. If the car had harsh mounts than that would be what would be required. Our photog also has done a burnout rig shot with a Mach 1 mustang.

Basically you are correct. Im just ribbing you a little
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:03 PM   #1212 (permalink)
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Hunting for some Northern Lights a couple days ago.. didn't find any but had some fun with light none the less. :)

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Old 11-29-2012, 03:10 PM   #1213 (permalink)
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Great shot!
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:28 PM   #1214 (permalink)
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randoms...




camera setting? filters?
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:33 PM   #1215 (permalink)
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We do our rig shots with the car on and running in gear. If the car had harsh mounts than that would be what would be required. Our photog also has done a burnout rig shot with a Mach 1 mustang.

Basically you are correct. Im just ribbing you a little
We used neutral and gave it a push to rid of any vibrations the motor would cause. I'm sure a first gear or automatic creep would work just as well. As far as the burnout with a Mach1, that's pushing it. I wouldn't risk my camera for that.
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