mykp

I will post a full write up with lots of piccies when this is complete, started at 1 pm but the old dears turned up at 4pm so I havent finished. Been fitting a new boost gauge as well, hence the time taken.

Got a few minutes while my dads gone to the chippy so will just post up this image.

Not sure if this is correct can some one look and let me know.



A = to actuator
B = to turbo pipe nipple
C = New boost thingie (sorry forgot what its called)
D = Manifold nipple (this pipe goes to the boost controller and splits at F where it goes off to the boost guage)
E = Pipe to boost controller
F = T piece splits to boost gauge.
G = Block this pipe off

Your comments on which pipe goes where is greatly appreciated. pipes are numbered 1 to 5.

Right, "Chippy tea" time

mike

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Alan MaC

I'm not aware of this Mod.

The boost controller, mine is mapped to 1.25 bar.

Can this make it go higher?

Is it safe to do so?

Can I make it go lower? (eg Wifelet driving it)

And the benefits in general?

Thanks.


Sorry I'm bit slow.

Regards


Alan MaC

mykp

alan, to answer your questions

In theory yes.
in theory yes.
definately, thats why i'm doing it
Boost comes up earlier and stays longer.

mike

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Alan MaC

Nice one.

Would you be kind enough to keep me posted as to how you got on?

Kind regards



Alan MaC

Targon

Mine isn't mapped, thats why i am going for the RX with the built in fuel cut defender. once/if i get it mapped might get the SE.
Anyone know how high it is safe to take boost unmapped (with the 1999 s-turbo baby turbo)? Wasn't going to go above 1Bar...
Or you all going to tell me i am a fool for not mapping first ;)

Cheers
Andrew

The Rookie

The stock mapping is safe to just under 0.8 bar, so I would suggest running at that until you can get a dyno pull done at your target1bar to check it out, rather than jumping straight to one bar and holing a piston!


Your plumbing looks ok there Mike...the new boost thingy is the new BCS!

From harvies description the rx uses the stock bcs and MAP sensor which would make life easier if its true!

Simon

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98 S-turbo, next mod decat D/P and hybrid turbo!

mykp

the rx uses the stock solonoid and is wired into the ecu, the SE comes with its own solonoid and doesnt wire into the ecu.

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mykp

Okay, I have it fitted and I am well chuffed. Boost come on miles quicker, I can see it in the speed the boost gauge moves and I have 16psi but with the High dial turned about 1/2 way round. Will experiment with a little more when feeling brave.

On low the boost is at 8psi.

I have done a write up but its on my site at present. I will put it on here later on but you can view it here first: SBC-D-SE Boost Controller Install : (mykp.co.uk)

I have also emailed harvey as I have a question about whether I need to remove a pipe but everything seems to work correctly.

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Targon

Looks like you have done a good job on the install and a cracking write-up :)
mine (RX) was posted on Saturday so should be here Monday so will have a go at fitting that Monday night.

Andrew

mykp

Okay heres my write up of the install of the HDI SBC-D-SE, bought from Harvey Performance for the princely sum of £120 - index - Harvey Performance

The unit was ordered mid afternoon on a Friday and it arrived at 6:05am on Saturday morning, so spot on delivery from Harvey.

The unit was well packaged, and came with an additional photocopy of the instruction manual, which came in very handy for using whilst installing the unit rather than getting the original manual dirty. I m one of those sad gits who likes to keep the any manuals I get.




On opening the box everything is nicely packaged and all the parts come sealed packed in a plastic bag, with seperate compartments for different parts.

The parts and cables can be see below and comprise or 1 x Controller, 1 x solonoid, 1 x wiring loom, 5 x small cable ties, 1 metre of tubing, 1 x t-piece, 1 x carrier with two nuts and bolts, 2 x bleed nipples, 1 x big nut and bolt for fixing the solonoid and 1 x manual.



First thing to do is to decide where to fit the unit, I decided I wanted mine under the stereo in the centre console so had to remove all the plastic trim to get to behind here. Fairly easy to remove the centre console. There are two screws hidden under plastic covers in the centre arm rest. Take the covers off and remove the screws and the surround round the handbrake will come out. Then remove around the gearstick, this isnt even screwed in and just lifts out. Hold the rear and lift then pull backwards and off it comes. The stereo surround, again isnt screwed in but needs to be pulled gently from the bottom. Mines been out a few times and it quite loose but the first time I tried to remove it it took a bit of time and patience especially for the holding clips close to the top.

Once out there are four screws, as shown below, which need to be removed. Once unscrewed the stereo area comes out in one. Thats the stereo and the under tray, just pull towards you.



Next is to feed the wires and piping through the bulk head, there are two places you can do this, there is a circular grommet and a rounded diamond shaped gromit. I thought i d get both the wires to the solonoid and the pressure pipe through the same hold but I was wrong. I managed the boost pipe through the circular grommet but when I came to push through the solonoid wire I realised that there was an end on it which plugs into the controllers wiring loom. Bugger! so I ve had to feed it through the other grommet. Using these grommits will bring the pipes and wire into the car close to the centre console. If you dont have a hole then you could make one, as long as you put a grommet round it afterwards.



Next is to wire up the boost controller wiring loom, I have wired mine into my stereo wiring, basicially because I can remove this part of the loom and solder all the wires in place outside the car (much easier). There are three wires out of the six which need wiring up, they are Green to Earth - , Red to Battery positive + and Blue which goes to the Ignition source. You could try using those crimp blocks but I wouldnt recommend it as the wires to the Boost controller are quite thin. The other three wires are for accessories which can be added to the unit.

Once the pipes and solonoid are in the engine bay then its time to connect them up.



The Blue pipe on the right which connects to the T piece (this connect to my boost gauge) a then connects to the red pipe goes to the boost controller (SBC-D-SE) at one end, and the other is connected to the inlet manifold just to the left of the coil pack as you look at the engine from the front.

Port two on the solonoid connects to the Actuator and Port three connects to a pressure source or the compressor housing. The original piping from the actuator and the inlet manifold to the manufacturers solonoid is blocked off and is not used.

So thats under the bonnet finished.

Back to the comfort of the inside and just in time as its persisting down with rain!

The pipe from the inlet manifold is connected to the boost controller on the port on the back as below and tie wrappd to stop it from coming off as its very loose. The first photo is of the naked port and the second is with the pipe connected.






Next is to connect all the wires. Once the above wiring has been done then to connect the unit to the supplied wiring loom and to the solonoid then all that is required is to connect the attached plugs together.

The power was then tested to make sure the unit switches on, which it did and I then put everything back together and here is the final result.



I ve put mine in the tray under the stereo, where its out of the way, basically I dont like stuff in your face in the cabin as I hate having to explain to people what stuff is especially the wife.

Next thing to do is to dial the unit in.

First the low. Make sure that low is lit and go for a drive. I turned the dial on low all the way down, same with high.

Once out on the road I accelerated and turned the dial up until the boost gauge moved. This was at 8psi. Thats the low set, so you push the dial in so it cant be accidentally changed. Next onto the fun bit, the high.

Press the select button and the high button lights up, this is now set to high. Again tuning is to turn the dial until you reach an acceptable boost level as per on your gauge. I would not start with the dial turned to high and turn it down as this risks your engine going boom!

I have set mine to 16psi (1.1 bar) which is perfectly adequate for me for the moment. Once set push the dial inwards to prevent accidental turning.

What I have noticed with this unit is that the way the boost comes in, its different too using the standard boost solonoid. With the standard solonoid the boost comes in slowly, stays a little while then disappears pretty much the same way it come in.

With this boost solonoid, it come in much earlier down the rev range, I noticed around 2750rpm I was on 16psi. I havent tested mine on the upper rpm range yet as my car is auto and in D changes up before boost subsides.

Overall it took me about 3 hours to fit the controller, a boost gauge and then tidy everything up under the bonnet. The finished result looks like this.



I have since found out that the pipe visible next to the power steering fluid reservoir needs to be blocked as well and I have just pushed a pencil eraser inside the pipe and then fitted it back on as blocking the hole from the air box pipe was proving difficult and this proved to the the easiest way.

Thanks to Harvey for the extra advice.

Additional: I have had the boost upto 18psi today and feck me its quicker, both in acceleration and emptying your fuel tank

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Nich B

Good job fella

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98/99 JDM Stb VF35 Apexi Power FC AVC-R Decat etc

The Rookie

Excellent write up, I think I really want an RX now!

Simon

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98 S-turbo, next mod decat D/P and hybrid turbo!

ransom

I like the sound of that, just what i'm looking for!
Does the Apexi AVC-R have any advantages/disadvantages against this unit?

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Subaru Forester S/Tb
Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade

mykp

Dont forget this is the Special Edition (SE) model with the improved solonoid.

The RX uses the standard solonoid but wires into the ECU. Probably easier to fit as no pressure tuning to install.

Targon has bought the RX, and hopefully he'll be fitting it this weekend. So lets hope he takes some piccies.

The apexi unit has more features but then it is over twice the price.

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Brian Lacey

Looks like it will have to go on the list then for the T/tb then, as it seems to work well with the autobox system.
Well done Mike, good write up.


Brian

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1998 T/tb auto