sethmate

So, the plastic top part of the radiator split the other day. AA man did a "get home" repair and I thought I'd try and fit a replacement radiator. A few searches later, some step by step advice and a couple of you tube videos and ready to get cracking.

Got the top pipe and breather pipe disconnected from the radiator without a problem, bottom pipe disconnected from engine block (difficult access to the bottom pipe on the radiator without the correct tool), but done and system drained.

Now the confusing bit - two thinner pipes running into the bottom of the radiator hidden from view (from above) by the fan units. I presume these are the oil cooler pipes, although from what I'd read up I thought that it was only the auto that had these - guess not. Problem is, how to disconnect with the radiator in?

Can't disconnect from hose clamp from where it joins with part 9 (on the opposed forces parts image) as one of the clamp boltheads has snapped off, and can't figure out how to get down to disconnect the hoses from the bottom of the radiator. DO they just pull off, or do they have a similar hose clamp?



Cheers

mdg

Easy to get to from underneath. Take the plastic underguard off (4 bolts) and bob's your uncle.

BTW. Just undo the 2 top black bracket bolts and gently pull straight up to get it out. There are no fixing nuts/bolts at the bottom, just locating pegs/holes.

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Less than 123BHP/Even less lb.ft
FOTM May 2010

sethmate

Thread Starter

I've taken the undertray and the radiator mounting clips off without a problem, and the radiator does lift off - to a point - but its the other two pipes I mentioned that I'm having difficulty getting to to disconnect to be able to get the radiator all the way out. I'm just not sure which end of the pipes I should be aiming to disconnect first, where they join the radiator, or at the end near the bodywork.

don1952

Yes the UK MT has the gearbox oil pump and cooler.

Whichever end you disconnect you will lose a small quantity of gear oil from the rad and the pipes. but probably best where the flexies attach to the hard pipes at the chassis rail as you don't have to contend with the lower guard being in the way.

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Was a MY03 FXT 5MT (280bhp/290Lbsft)
Now a MY11 WRX STi 4door (342bhp/360Lbsft)

sethmate

Thread Starter

Cheers Don.

Certainly the metal gutter that the bottom of the radiator seems to sit in makes access difficult there so the clamp where the flexi-hose joins the metal pipe seemed like the best bet.

At least I know now what that pipe is for so, if worst comes to worst, I guess I can always cut the pipe or the clamp itself

Bassmaker

When I changed my rad, I separated the oil cooler pipes at the connection where it is marked "part#3" on the OF diagram. Gearbox oil is foul smelling fluid but a few little preparations will help lessen the effects. Have some sort of bung material to fit in the two pipes as you separate them, around 8mm diameter. What ever comes out of the cooler is a little more difficult to catch but I expect some more bung material will work there too, the priority would be the lines coming from the gearbox.. Old clothes, gloves and something on your driveway will be a good idea. The chances are you will only drop a few ounces but if there is more.....

I replaced the clamps (part#3) with new jubilee clips as mine were also corroded. Once you have completed the job, check again with a good light because if the pipes are not joined properly, they will part (as happened to mine before I bought it resulting in a slow leak that trashed the gearbox after I bought it). If you have the car jacked up it will make the job pretty easy but it's entirely do-able without the jack if you have the OEM suspension. Some cleaning and WD40 will make the fan clips easier to deal with as well, in the confined space.

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Scruffy 99 S Turbo. TD04-19T hybrid. DeCat. JGM.