PSI 3 Disassembly - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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PSI 3 Disassembly

Firstly I put this here rather than in technical as I'm not sure anyone beyond Europe will even know what these are ? If I'm wrong, I'm sure an Admin will be along and move it in good time :-)


So my PSI3 developed a fault over a few weeks, before it became unusable and needed to be unplugged. Initially it started displaying the odd random character in place of the correct character or blank. Over time this became progressively worse until on one particular day on getting into the car all the psi3 showed was animated hyroglyphs, with no apparent correlation to the expected output. It was however still functioning as the shift light was still working.** It was suggested that it may be as simple as a dry solder joint on the display module.

So at that point it was unplugged awaiting some time.* I finally got the time this week, and popped it out and took it apart to see if it was salvageable.

So having dismounted the unit, it has only 8 fasteners apparent. 4 on the front, 1 on each side and 2 on the back.

The back ones you can leave alone (they simply mount the rear socket for the 2 plugs), and the front ones (Allen screws) can also be left alone for now.

To disassemble the electronics from the case undo the single screw on each side of the case, then grab the front piece and ease it forward. Keep pulling forward and it should come free. I did find that I needed to ease the case a little as it was slightly bowed. You can remove the 4 allen screws on the front if you wish to avoid damaging the front piece, as this will give access to 4 metal hexagon extension pieces you can use to pull the circuit boards out.

Having got the insides out, then disconnect the ribbon cable by opening the clips on each end and then pulling, this disconnects the ribbon from the main circuit board* and leaves the ribbon connected to the plugs in the back of the unit.

Having got this far I then dismounted the display board, this simply requires 4 plastic pins to be squeezed at the ends to pop them back through the board, then lift the daughter board off complete with the display.

All the pieces out it looks like this.



I then resoldered, all of the pins that mount the display to the daughterboard and put it back together.* All now working OK again.

While I had it in pieces I also added a layer of yellow acetate to the back of the front plate, which has converted the display from blue to green so is more of a match for the green illumination of the dash in general.

In true workshop manual fashion, reassembly is the reverse sequence of removal :-)


Scratch
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MY98 Turbo 2000 >>> MY99 V5 STI >>> MY05 Forester STI

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:11 AM
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Fancy one of these. Not often they come up for sale though.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:11 AM
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I've got a fancy one

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ohh, @The Hoff which version is that ?

I had he original green one in my first scoob, then picked this one up for my sti5, and subsequently transferred it to the FSTi, or maybe I'm 1 car out there and I had the original in the STI, then got this direct for the Foz.

So what version is that one then, must be one of the last of type ?

I do know a couple of people after one for imports as the OBD2 generic stuff doesn't work on imports as they are not ODB2, they are SSM.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 03:15 AM
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Not sure what the version is called but its the model that draws a graph on one of the user pages, definately one of the last models released. It was in the S-Turbo Foz that I bought, I then transferred it over to my SG9 Sti when I bought one
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 10:29 AM
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I have the same one as Scratch, but took it out a while back to fix and never did. Shame as it was always handy for keeping an eye on temps.
Mine alway had an issue with the separate power board. It had a dodgy track repair and I keep meaning to sort it out. Hopefully this thread wil inspire me to do so.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 12:54 PM
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Good work.
They are fiddly to assemble/disassemble but one of the best modifications to make to your car if you care about its health.
On track for example I backed off when seeing the water reaching 96C something that I would never know if I didn't have a monitoring gauge.
I had the latest VFD version, same as Hoff.
Shame they have stopped making them anymore.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 12:57 PM
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I think it's one of the last they built I thought that was out of the sf I sold you the name that appears when you turn it on is an American tuning company I got it of mattyb the Subaru breaker on scoobynet
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 01:26 PM
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Reminds me I really should fix mine, or fit my spare one (Is it greedy to have 2!?!)

Could you see which were the bad joints?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 01:31 PM
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Simon @ Auwell electronics can still repair them if it's anything more critical than soldering that can't be done DIY

simonb AT auwell DOT co DOT uk

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 01:49 PM
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I already contacted him about a repair but then a 2nd PSI unit came up for sale at less than the price of the repair - just not got around to sorting either yet!

If I can get both working then I can have one in FSTI and one in Impreza - although I already have a Blitz R-vit plugged into the OBD port of the Impreza.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 02:06 PM
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How much were you quoted for the repair?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 02:17 PM
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Cheers fpan. I've just sent Simon an email after another go at fixing mine and no luck.
These are awesome bits of kit, I reckon we should get on to him to start making them again.
I'd like to get the shift light set up on mine once its fixed.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpan View Post
How much were you quoted for the repair?
Think it was 65?
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