Drivers Window not working - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Drivers Window not working

Hi Guys

Power window stopped working this week on the drivers side front, took the pod out tonight, made by Nissan Couldnt see alot wrong with it. Before i strip the door card down anyone got any pointers? Oh Its a '05 XTe

Thanks

Just

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 01:17 AM
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On the assumption that the other three windows are working ok, it will most likely be one of the following:

1. Switch contact assy. responsible for the front RH windows U/S (Main or sub).
2. Window motor U/S.
3. Final earth point loose/ corroded (GND-02).

The drivers door window gets the highest use so my vote is for No.1.




Terry

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, normally a simple fix i know, but the window switch threw me as its a block that seems to be sealed, and thus not easily checked

Just
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 04:03 AM
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Only by swopping it out for a known good one...

Ebay maybe?

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 04:27 AM
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I had same problem on my 04 and then the rear pas window stopped. Took the drivers main unit out, disconected and sprayed with contact cleaner. Cured the back window problem. Still have a drivers side issue but main stealers quoted over 400 to replace the motor/regulator. Cheaper to use the aircon!!!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chelsea Tractor View Post
Still have a drivers side issue but main stealers quoted over 400 to replace the motor/regulator. Cheaper to use the aircon!!!
Hi, I have the same problem, all other windows work but my driver's window......I was quoted around 400inc Vat for a motor + regulator ....So I had a word with Jackie at Annapolis Subaru (In America) and she quoted me.....
Motor Assembly: $155 = in UK money 96.88
Regulator: $57 = in UK money 35.63

I picked up the parts delivered to me while on holiday over there....but surely even with shipping to the UK +~8% Duty + 20% VAT It must be a lot cheaper...than 400 pounds

PS I don't have the pound sign because I'm using a US spec laptop (About half price over there too)

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your input fellas, gonna put a 12V supply on the motor to rule out the switch then go from there.....Ill keep you posted. One thing after another along with the aux air fault too

Just
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 03:19 AM
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I have a drivers side window motor on order from Subaru Genuine Parts (Can't post URL's yet! Do a google search)

About 93 compared to Subaru UK who want 260+vat.
Even with duty, VAT and delivery add on top, I'm pretty sure I'll save about 100.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sdjl View Post
I have a drivers side window motor on order from Subaru Genuine Parts (Can't post URL's yet! Do a google search)

About 93 compared to Subaru UK who want 260+vat.
Even with duty, VAT and delivery add on top, I'm pretty sure I'll save about 100.
That sounds good, let us know how u get on

Just
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 11:11 PM
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I'm in Aussie, right side driver motor failing. Model 2006. Firstly replaced motor (new) some three months ago.. but failed a few days later (area on door became hot). As it was under warranty got another, which also failed 2 weeks later (also hot). Bought used assembly from a crashed car (metallic bars, mechanical regulator and working motor... all same door). Set lasted some 2 months and died, this time no heat perceived. Switch is ok. As member mentioned above could be a loose earth?, where to check?. All other windows never had an issue. Any ideas?... Thanks

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ricsub View Post
I'm in Aussie, right side driver motor failing. Model 2006. Firstly replaced motor (new) some three months ago.. but failed a few days later (area on door became hot). As it was under warranty got another, which also failed 2 weeks later (also hot). Bought used assembly from a crashed car (metallic bars, mechanical regulator and working motor... all same door). Set lasted some 2 months and died, this time no heat perceived. Switch is ok. As member mentioned above could be a loose earth?, where to check?. All other windows never had an issue. Any ideas?... Thanks
Sometimes owners stuff tubing inside the door / window rubbers to reduce wind noise and push the window tighter against this . Think some owners in the USA have had motors burned out because of extra stress this puts on the motor .....just a thought for you
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 01:59 AM
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usually its not the motor that fails, inside the motor gearbox assembly theres a splined shaft that drives a plate with pins on through a cush drive to the output shaft. the splines corrode and the drive shaft slips and the window doesnt move. i welded the disc to the shaft and have had no problems since! the motor can be removed without stripping the door down or removing the window mech.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:24 PM
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I just replaced my second driver's side Subaru power window motor and regulator assy today. A Dorman unit from Amazon $112, free shipping.

Took me about 45 minutes from gathering tools to putting them away. Trick is to use small suction cups (Harbor Freight) to hold window in raised position after the nuts/bolts holding it to the regulator assy are undone. Saves removing some ancillary components.

I suggest first removing, examining, and replacing the appropriate fuse several times, as this will ensure good electrical contact of the fuse. If it's blown, replace, and see what happens. Some fuses blow for a reason (overload), and some blow due to age, believe it or not.

If the problem is intermittent, that says to me that either the switch is bad (most likely), the ground is bad (possible), or the motor is conking out. Intermittent problems are typically intermittent during their early stages, prior to complete failure.

FWIW, Neither regulator assy I removed looked truly bad, and I suppose that if I had more time (and better temp/weather opportunities) that either one could have been cleaned-up, re-greased, and reinstalled. They are fairly complicated, and it would take some time and effort to do so. Some bushings are not easily examined for wear, nor are they easily re-lubed with the proper lube, generally lithium grease. The electrical motor is a separately replaceable unit.

As a general rule of thumb, if the window seems to be laboring, either up or down, then the regulator is suspect. If there are intermittent failures, then an electrical component is suspect.

Even though I am a big junkyard advocate (leather-covered steering wheel for $10, tow hitch for $50) I do NOT suggest that you replace the switch module with one from a junkyard. In this particular case, the switches from the junkyard will have have seen a great deal of use, and might well have been exposed to the weather during their stay in the junkyard. I strongly suggest you buy new switch module from a trusted vendor, with a reasonable return policy.

During my junkyard forays, I have seen a great number of Foresters of this approximate vintage whose window motors and regulators have been removed. it is almost a rarity to see one of this year-range whose driver's side door has not been violated.

Keep in mind that you do NOT need to replace the entire panel with all its' switches, just the power window module. I'd buy that new.

FWIW, I just had to renew the electrics on the driver's side door of my 1996 Honda Accord. This included power window motor and regulator, electrical door lock actuator, and the electric window switch module. Done in my driveway for a hell of a lot less than I would have paid anyone else to do it.

Good news is that there are YouTube vids on how to do all this stuff. Watch more than one, as some people are a little more clever than others--witness the suction cup trick, mentioned above.

TL;DR: Check the fuse, ensure good contact, and then replace the switch module with a new one. If no joy, then replace the motor/regulator assy. The switch module you replaced was probably about to fail anyway (see Honda comment above). BTDT.

Last edited by RIBob; Yesterday at 12:34 PM.
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