As with the first post, my previous vehicle wheels were torqued to 100 ft.lbs. The Haynes manual for my son's 95 Neon Sport says 95 ft.lbs, 96 & later is 100 ft.lbs. I decided 100 ft.lbs was too much, so I use 80 ft.lbs for the Neon & MY03. This makes it easier, since I don't have to keep changing the setting on the torque wrench. BTW, this is the torque most tire dealers use.
The lug nuts on MY03 are M12X1.25, torgue range for this fastener is 70-80 ft.lbs.
My son's 95 Neon Sport are M12X1.5, torque range for this fastener is 70-80 ft.lbs. The factory recommends 90 ft.lbs.
I'm going to go against the group & say I put a small amount of NAPA 765-1382 Lock-Ease (Graphited Lock Fluid) on the wheel studs. The Lock-Ease "dries", leaving a rust preventing film, it's not oily. I have used this since I was a kid & I have never had any issues. In addition, I have never had to replace a wheel stud & no wheel has come off.
I always check my wheels after they've been driven on until there is no loose lug nuts. This will usually take two or more retorquings. The front wheels will be found to be loose more than the rear, due to the additional stress they are subject to. Most tire dealers will advise you to retorque after driving on newly installed wheels.
Once my wheels have stablized, they don't require torquing. I usually make an effort to check them at least once a month... just to be sure!
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