Hey guys so I just upgraded the STI sway bar.
My friend gave me his rear STI sway bar from his 12 STI.
2014 stock forester 16mm rear
2012 Sti 19mm rear
What I discover is that you need to swap the sti endlinks out form the 19mm sti bar with our 2014 stock forester's endlinks.
Its roughly 1/4 inch longer than the stock STI.
Sti 19mm 11-12 sti is a direct replacement just have to swap the endlinks
We have enough ground clearance to do it underneath if you lift the car a bit it will help a lot. I recall you need to install and uninstall with the car on load so use ramps.
Use PCB blaster to help loosen the rust or corrosion if you do it fairly early when you have the car it is pretty easy
spray these points
14mm and a 12mm for the various bolts you need to remove.
I think these were 12 and the endlinks were 14mm.
Start of where the endlink is that bolt is a 14mm
you may need a longer arm or breaker bar just to get it moving
The side facing the exhaust should be the nut I didn't need to hold on to the other side it came off fairly easy. The visble side closer to the exhaust is easy to get off and this will come out of the end link. just wiggle the endlink out.
Repeat for both sides
these are 12mm bolts they come of fairly easy take them off.
I found it easier to just lose the endlinks first then the brackets so the bar doesn't fall on the exhaust.
Your going have to fold the endlinks around to get the bar out
***** remember what side is left and right since the sti/ stock bar is not labeled left or right
(i think i went with from the endlink it curves down then up away from the exhaust)
wiggle the sway bar out in this way to clear everything. Your also going install it back in this way. It took me a bit to figure out what works but its just moving it around. Hope this helps instead of spending 10 minutes.
once you have the bars out your going to pc blast the endlinks
to remove the
14 forester endlinks and put them on the 19mm sti bar
you need to remove the sti endlinks (gray) off the 19mm bar to add in 14 forest end links. they are only slightly longer but i'm sure there is some reason behind it.
I then made sure i lubed up the bushings and sway bar and brackets with white lithium grease.
install the bar from the same side you took it out. I think the right side was just easier.
The 19mm is a bit heavier so you may need a hand.
I wiggled everything around to make sure the endlinks are straight and the bar was lined up.
Insert the end links first then move the bar up and down to fit it in its correct path.
I tighten the bolt through the endlink
Then tighten the brackets
double check that everything is lined up and straight
then tighten everything up nice and tight
Hope this helps this should apply to other installs
I completed the RSB install on my 2.5i Touring (non-turbo, with the softer suspension) over the weekend and am very pleased with the results.
I did the EXACT same mod on my 2010 Outback 5 years ago (same P/N's and all). Back then, this mod took my Outback from a squishy highway cruiser to semi-tolerable around corners. This time around, the same mod took my already fun-to-drive Forester to sedan-like handling. It really buttoned things down in terms of body lean at moderate cornering with no perceptible change in ride.
Those who have not done this before should not be expecting a whole new car -- the mod makes an incremental (but noticeable) improvement in handling, but not a hugely dramatic change, so don't set yourself up for disappointment.
That said, anyone that likes to have fun taking corners at a zippy speed should do this mod without hesitation.
I would like to note that the original poster's detailed instructions in the first post pretty much cover all the details that anyone needs to do this. (Good work, LcrazyaznL!)
I will only add that unless your Forester is new or nearly new, you will really need to work hard to remove the nut from the endlinks. They rust within a few weeks of delivery. To succeed, note the following:
- You will need to spray the nuts with good penetrant to loosen the rust
- You will need a 5 mm hex key. If you look at the photos of the end link nut, there is a hex on the end of the bolt. Use the key to hold the bolt in place while you turn the nut, or else the end link will just spin with the bolt and it'll never loosen.
- I highly recommend using a 14mm box wrench to remove the rusty nut. A crescent wrench is too imprecise and there is very little space to turn the wrench. I did it with a crescent, but it took me a good 15 minutes to get each nut off, only able to make about 1/16 of a turn with each movement.
The only other tool you need is a 12mm socket to get the nuts off of the bushing covers. You may need a 2" socket extender to get to the top nut.
Remember this mod must be done with the suspension loaded, so the car cannot be jacked up. If you are clauterphobic, you won't like it, but most people will be able to crawl under the car with no problem, but it is quite tight and awkward. Make sure you have a mat or carpet to lay on, too, and a shop light or flashlight is helpful as well.
All parts needed can be bought here:
Subaru Outback Rear 19MM Sway Bar Kit (Part No: 20451FG020/20464FG020 x2)
It says Outback, but these exact P/N's also work on Forester, Impreza, and Crosstrek, and of course, WRX.