Instructions on how to change front brake pads - Page 3 - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 10:39 AM
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release valve? drive old rotor? shoe easy?

Hi, I'm about to do my front pads(and probably the rear shoes soon as well- are those pretty easy?- never done shoes before, know its harder though). I will probably just replace the pads and inspect the rotors, and if they need turning, will probably just wait another few weeks.

1. Does anyone see a problem driving on new pads for a while before actually turning the rotors? I figure at least a few hundred to a thousand miles would be no big deal, if the rotors are not too grooved.

2. When compressing the caliper pistons, is it necessary to release the little fluid valve on the caliper to let out the pressure?

Thanks for any info.D

2001 Subaru Forester L, AT, 6 disc, tint, power

Last edited by doduff; 02-07-2008 at 10:40 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 10:55 AM
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In response to someones question about removing one bolt and rotating the caliper out of the way. Yes it works, on the fronts I removed the top caliper bolt and rotated it down. You have to remove the bolt holding the brake line to the strut to get enough play in the line. If you don't support the caliper it will flop down and pinch the line. I used a bottle of Prestone, but string or bailing wire would work just as well.


I should have taken a pick of the whole thing rotated out of the way but i was distracted by working on the brakes. This was my first time changing pads on my subie.

On the back I removed the bottom bolt and rotated the caliper up. Worked good. For my first time it only took me about an hour and a half to swap pads on all four wheels.
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post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
2. When compressing the caliper pistons, is it necessary to release the little fluid valve on the caliper to let out the pressure?

Thanks for any info.D
No pushing in the pistons will force the fluid back through the brake lines and into the brake fluid tank in the master cylinder. Be careful it does not overflow and spill out onto the paint. Brake fluid is nasty stuff.

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post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 12:10 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Peaty. One more quick question then...

Should I take the top off of the master cylinder when I do the compression then?

2001 Subaru Forester L, AT, 6 disc, tint, power
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post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 12:56 PM
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So I am replacing my rotors and pads on the front. how do I adjust the pistons so my new pads wont rub? Won't they be set to the thickness of the old pads and rotors?
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post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 02:39 PM
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they self adjust. you don't have to do anything. just check the fluid level. the pads will release on their own and they adjust automatically to the reduced thickness of the pads and the rotors as they wear. there is no drag as long as your foot is not on the brake pedal.

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post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 04:01 PM
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sweet thank you, i just wanted to make sure
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post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008, 11:35 AM
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After changing my rear pads to Hawk HP+, the rear passenger side caliper pads are sticking to the rotors. While releasing the pedal at 10Mph to stop, there will be a groaning noise from that brake together with smoke and burnt smell.

What should i do to remedy this problem?
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post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Peaty View Post
Brake fluid is nasty stuff.
Werd. I don't know how you guys juggle a digital camera while playing w/ brake fluid.
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No pushing in the pistons will force the fluid back through the brake lines and into the brake fluid tank in the master cylinder. Be careful it does not overflow and spill out onto the paint.
Regarding NOT opening the bleeder while pushing in the pistons, I was told by a mechanic that this action pushes dirty fluid into the ABS module... and something about a one-way gate which may get damaged if brake fluid is pushed back into the system... maybe I'm nuts.

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post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008, 01:20 PM
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1- make sure the piston cups seals are not damaged, the rubber boot around the cup. If they are damaged and dirt / corrosion might be binding the piston not letting it release.

2- Was it hard to put the caliper on with the new pads? My fronts were like that and the reason was I reused the hardware that snaps on to the pad. I ended up sanding down the pads to compensate only to later find out that your not supposed to use the old hardware at all.
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post #41 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-18-2008, 06:54 PM
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Yes, there is a slot or opening in the top of the Caliper that you can fit a screw driver in to force them open by pushing on the old pads but I forget if you do it while the caliper is installed or not.
I will look in to this to make it more clear.
This is about changing pads on the front brakes, I was at the repair shop the other day and saw that there are two slots in the top of the front calipers that you can fit a flat head screw driver into to push on the old pads and they push the pistons back in so you are able to install the new pads, you do it while the caliper is installed, then you remove the upper bolt only and rotate the entire caliper asembly down too replace them, then you just put in the new pads and rotate it back up and reinstall the bolt. We had the car on a lift but its not needed to do the procedure.
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post #42 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 07:39 PM
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Regarding NOT opening the bleeder while pushing in the pistons, I was told by a mechanic that this action pushes dirty fluid into the ABS module... and something about a one-way gate which may get damaged if brake fluid is pushed back into the system... maybe I'm nuts.
It's a closed system, or should be. Where did he say the dirt would come from?
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post #43 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 07:57 PM
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The dirt would come from the moisture that enters the system.

'09 STI
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