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#1 (permalink) |
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04 XT with 79,XXX miles and recently I've noticed very bad brake shudder while braking at high speed. Also, pedal pressure has changed and it takes more effort to stop now. I don't know when the brakes have been changed last. At any rate, I'd like to upgrade. Not necessarily bigger but def better than stock. What do you all suggest?
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#2 (permalink) |
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You should invest in some high quality rotors and pads if you do not plan on tracking the car. Some Racing Brake Rotors (supporting vendor) and some hawk pads would be a great option. You will love the difference
![]() I have brembo's cross drilled rotors on my wifes outback and I love the difference. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
And I'd suggest a flush as it sounds like you may have boiled the fluid or at least come a little too close based on the loss of pedal feel.
__________________
Rejoice O young man in thy youth - Ecclesiates |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Groovologist
Contributing Member
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+1 on the pads, rotors, and flush. I personally wouldn't waste the money on slotted rotors. I have heard of people getting good results with the duralast rotors from autozone.
The shuddering feeling is from the rotors being warped. The increased effort sounds like either air, water, or both have entered the fuel lines, or you have boiled some. DOT 4 fluid will resist boiling better, but from what I understand may need to get flushed more frequently. Whatever you do, don't use DOT 5 fluid. DOT 5.1 is compatibile with DOT 3 and DOT 4, but DOT 5 isn't. Also, the biggest difference in braking performance will be your choice of pad, but there are a lot of tradeoffs involved there. Better braking generally means more dust, noise, and accelerated rotor wear. If wear and dust are a concern, ceramic pads are nice, but won't give the stopping power of a semi-metallic pad.
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2005 Obsidian Black Pearl XT w/4eat |
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#5 (permalink) |
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My 2 cents
1) shudder = warped rotors, DO NOT resurface them, just replace 2) Get your fluid changed completely if this is your first time. Suggest buying blue fluid so you'll know when you bleed that all the old junk is out. 3) you don't need slotted/drilled rotors even for track use. I run cheap $25 (yes $25) rotors at the track on lapping days and they haven't warped in 2 summers use. Proof in the pudding 4) For street use a Hawk HPS type pad will be much better than stock. A lot of people go insane with brake upgrades then hate the results. Excessive wear, dust, screaching.... For the street keep it simple. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Groovologist
Contributing Member
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Quote:
Thanks for the info about the duralast rotors!
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2005 Obsidian Black Pearl XT w/4eat |
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#10 (permalink) |
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I can argue with no facts to back me up!!
Contributing Member
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+1 for slightly more aggressive pads and brembo blanks or the equivalent rotor and of course fluid flush.
Don't waste your money on fancy rotors. They don't do jack shi... except waste money.
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'08 XT LTD/MT |
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#11 (permalink) |
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thanks for the replies. should i do front and rear or just front? what i've gathered is:
brembo blanks or vendor rotors hawk pads flush fluid another question. do I have to get forester specific rotors and pads or will anything from an impreza work? Last edited by G32BTurbo : 09-21-2008 at 08:04 PM. |
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