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Old 11-10-2006, 07:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to replace brake pads and Rotor?

I was searching for a thread for removing and installing the front brake pads and rotors. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jeff
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have been searching for the info too. I have searched Scoobymods, but none for Forester.
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Old 11-10-2006, 09:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1 Rox View Post
I have been searching for the info too. I have searched Scoobymods, but none for Forester.
Directions you find on scoobymods ought to be pretty good, as most Subies are similar under the skin. I would recommend, however, finding out the proper torques from somebody who has a shop manual for your specific year and model.
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Old 11-10-2006, 01:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you undo the wheel and then the callipers, the rotors will just slide off.

BRAKE
FRONT BRAKE PAD
2. Front Brake Pad
A: REMOVAL
1) Set the vehicle on a lift.
2) Loosen the wheel nuts.
3) Jack-up the vehicle, and then remove the front
wheel.
4) Remove the lower caliper bolt.
5) Raise the caliper body upward and support it.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the brake hose from caliper
body.
6) Remove the pad.
NOTE:
If the brake pad is difficult to remove, proceed as
follows:
(1) Remove the caliper body from support.
(2) Remove the support.
(3) Place a support in a vise between wooden
blocks.
(4) Attach a rod of less than 12 mm (0.47 in) dia.
to the shaded area of brake pad, and strike the
rod with a hammer to drive brake pad out of
place.
B: INSTALLATION
1) Apply thin coat of Molykote AS880N (Part No.
K0777YA010) to the frictional portion between pad
and pad clip.
2) Apply thin coat of Molykote AS880N (Part No.
K0777YA010) to the frictional portion between inner
pad and rubber coat shim. (Australia model
only)
NOTE:
Do not apply grease between outer pad and outer
shim. (Australia model only)

Do not confuse the inner shim and outer shim
when installing. (Australia model only)

CAUTION:
Replace the pad if there is oil or grease on it.
3) Install the pads on support.
4) Install the caliper body on support.
Tightening torque:
37 N
m (3.8 kgf-m, 27.5 ft-lb)

NOTE:
If it is difficult to push the piston during pad replacement,
loosen the air bleeder to facilitate work.
(1) Support
(2) Wooden blocks
BR-00012
BR-00013
BR-00014
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Old 11-10-2006, 01:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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BRAKE
FRONT DISC ROTOR
3. Front Disc Rotor
A: REMOVAL
1) Set the vehicle on a lift.
2) Loosen the wheel nuts.
3) Jack-up the vehicle, and then remove the front
wheel.
4) Remove the caliper body and support from
housing, and suspend it from strut using a wire.
5) Remove the disc rotor.
NOTE:
If the disc rotor seizes up within the hub, drive the
disc rotor out by installing an 8-mm bolt in holes (B)
on rotor.
6) Clean mud and foreign particles from the caliper
body assembly and support.
B: INSTALLATION
1) Install the disc rotor.
2) Install the caliper body and support to housing.
Tightening torque:
80 N
m (8.2 kgf-m, 59 ft-lb)

3) Install the wheel.
C: INSPECTION
1) Check bearing axial end play and hub runout before
disc rotor runout limit inspection.<Ref. to DS-
22, INSPECTION, Front Axle.>
2) Secure the disc rotor by tightening five wheel
nuts.
3) Set a dial gauge 10 mm (0.39 in) inward of rotor
outer perimeter. Turn the disc rotor to check runout.
If the disc rotor runout is above specified value, replace
the disc rotor.
Disc rotor runout limit:
0.075 mm (0.0030 in)
4) Set a micrometer 10 mm (0.39 in) inward of the
rotor outer perimeter, and then measure the disc
rotor thickness. If the thickness of disc rotor is outside
the service limit, replace the disc rotor.
BR-00017
BR-00018
Standard
value
Service
limit
Disc outer
dia.
Disc rotor
thickness A
15
24 mm
(0.94 in)
22 mm
(0.87 in)
277 mm
(10.91 in)
16
24 mm
(0.94 in)
22 mm
(0.87 in)
294 mm
(11.57 in)

BR-00019
BR-00018
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Old 11-10-2006, 01:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You must extract some (no more than 25%) brake fluid from the reservoir in preparation to push the piston back into the caliper body. (I use an old battery hydrometer) Watch for overflow as you push the pistons back in. Some old rags placed under the reservoir is a good idea.

Some people use G clamps to compress the piston - I, very carefully, use a large screwdriver as leverage on a small piece of wood.
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Old 11-10-2006, 03:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Note that brake fluid is pretty nasty stuff, and that it can do horrible things to paint. If you spill / splash any on your paint clean it off right away.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I just did a 4 wheel pad rotor job this past weekend. I used a MightyVac to extract brake fluid from the resevoir and also did a complete system flush. Starting at the back right corner then the back left the front right. Basically longest run to shortest.
I readjusted the freeplay at the pedal too.
I am now very pleased with the brakes on this rig. Before I found the brakes less than confidence inspiring. There was too much free play, pedal pulsing and recently squeeking from the rear. The pads were almost completely gone at 48K miles. It's the GFs car and she has a good downhill run from her work.
Definetly need to use the bolt trick to get the rotors off.
I bought a complete 4 corner package of pads and rotor from BrakePlanet .com . Only ran $200 incl tax and delivery. Pretty please with the product. All parts were as good as OEM.
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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My rears are gone after 11k....

WTH... time to find out what the heck they replaced my pads with. THAT or I have scraping rotors and back plate..

Anyone doing a change soon? A write up with pics would be great.
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Just search brakes on scoobymods, they are basically the same for all scoobies
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Old 07-01-2008, 10:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Heh I'm actually reading through ScoobyMods now and I think I found out why my brakes are making sounds. Still want to replace with Hawk HPS and Brembo replacement rotors for the fronts.. but what for the backs? Any suggestions on where to buy pads and rotors from for good prices? Tire rack is quoting me $320 shipped for front rotors and front+rear hps pads.
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Here's a good set of instructions with pictures for the WRX. Should be the same for our Foresters:

Brake Pad Replacement

Might be a good how to post
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Last edited by neoshi; 07-09-2008 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoshi View Post
Here's a good set of instructions with pictures for the WRX. Should be the same for our Foresters:

Brake Pad Replacement

Might be a good how to post
This is what I used as a reference. I posted another thread about issues putting the original shims on my new Hawk pads. Major issues. Ditch some of the shims when putting new pads on.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hm ok. I recall the mechanic who changed mine said something about "it didn't fit right, so we threw away the shims." Maybe that explained the amazing amount of brake dust of my calipers after he changed my pads.. almost like he shaved my pads down.. so much that they are worn out after 11k miles!

It all makes sense now...
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Man, I can't believe the lack of shims is NOW being discussed. 3 days late and $42 short.
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