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Old 11-26-2012, 01:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2007 Forester front brakes - first time

Early this year I bought an '07 Forester with manual trans and @ 95,000 miles on it. Pre-purchase mech said it would need front brakes soon. Good records with regular maintenance, but nothing ever done to the brakes.
New to Subaru, and don't do heavy auto mech work, (do everything on a '74 MGB, tho) but skills should be adequate for a brake job. It's not primary family driver, but use it for light towing and hauling dogs & stuff. Not likely to see 5,000 miles/year. Love it. Seen the brake change video. Questions:
1. Assume that rotors need changing - right?
2. Subaru brakes & pads or auto parts store stuff?
3. Anything other than pads & rotors that I should just go ahead and order?
4. Brakes were flushed at 94,400. Change fluid anyway?
5. Any "gotchas" for a newbie?
Thanks.
BT
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm good with "normal" parts honestly...

I put more weight on proper bedding of the pads and seasoning of new rotors (ususally NOT done with new pads) to be honest..

If you aren't doing anything "special" with the car, follow your wallet and these links...

How to bed your pads | www.Baer.com

Season your rotors | www.Baer.com
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i would get made in usa rotors or in canada ones or Centric rotor's an pads all around would be fine.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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1. Assume that rotors need changing - right?
The standard disc rotor thickness is 24mm and the service limit is 22mm.
If the discs are not scoured then leave them alone.
If they are scoured and will clean up before the service limit consider machining.
If they will be below the service limit replace.


2. Subaru brakes & pads or auto parts store stuff?
I bought may last pads on-line from a parts wholesaler. I think the brand was Protex Blue. Working fine.

3. Anything other than pads & rotors that I should just go ahead and order?
The Protex pads come pre-coated with moly powder and new anti-squeal shims where they contact the pistons. You will need to examine the condition of the pistion boots. Check the condition of the piston exposed outside the caliper housing for corrosion. You willl need some fluid.

4. Brakes were flushed at 94,400. Change fluid anyway?
You will need to press the pistons back in to fit the new pads. Check the boots for cracks or damage and pistons for corrosion if exposed. Clean the piston if required. Lubricate the area under the boot with brake grease if required. Use an old pad and a G-Clamps to push the pistons back in. When doing this connect a hose to a drain bottle and open the bleed valve. When pressing the pistons back in let the fluid go into the bottle. Do not press the fluid back up to the mater cyclinder. You may send crud back into the master cylinder and stuff it. I make the drain bottles out of a plastic jar with a hole drilled through the lid and half a metre of 6mm ID clear plastic tube. Remember to shut the bleed valve off imediately after depressing the pistions.

5. Any "gotchas" for a newbie?
When you have finished bleed the brakes just a few pumps to confirm that any air the may have snuck in during the piston depress operation is evaculated. Do the wheel furthest away from the master cyclinder first. Then hose off the front of the car and under bonnet and guards where you have been working with brake fluid to ensure no drops have got onto the paint anywhere.

Last edited by BillyCorgi; 11-30-2012 at 04:13 AM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the thorough answers. I'll get this done in the next couple of weeks.
BT
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