Timing belt replacement - DIY Tips - Page 2 - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #16 of 101 (permalink) Old 02-01-2011, 07:37 AM
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Timing Belt parts

Thanks Vince for the tips on the timing belt. I just finished replacing all of the moving parts on my timing chain. I did use a long breaker bar that I wedged on the shelf the battery sits on (drivers side) to break the crank pulley. I unplugged the spark plugs and hit the starter. Worked like a charm to loosen the pulley bolt. Two long hardened bolts inserted in the holes on the pulley can be used to wedge a long crow bar to hold the pulley.
I purchased my parts from mizumoauto.com $209 for GMB water pump, Mitsuboshi timing belt, Japanese tensioner, three japaneese made idler pulleys from NTN and cam and crank seals. All seemed to be OEM quality. I got AC and alternator belts and thermostat from Timing Belt Kit Pro 703-339-7790. The entire replacement package was around $250.
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post #17 of 101 (permalink) Old 04-03-2011, 05:51 PM
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Success!

Just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump, crank / cam seals, tensioner and all idlers. This thread helped a lot. Thanks. I wanted to add a photo of the Vise-Grip chain wrench on the crank pulley while taking the pulley off. My A/C compressor is also off because it failed a few months ago and will be replaced soon. The Vise-Grip propped against the A/C idler mounting bracket for removal. Your results may differ. BTW, the Vise-Grip chain wrench I used is model 20R, it might be their only one. I also used the chain wrench to remove both cam sprockets. Thanks again for the help.
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Last edited by Ralpho711; 04-03-2011 at 05:56 PM. Reason: updated info
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post #18 of 101 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 10:06 PM
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Cam Sproket Moved Off Mark

Hey All,

Great info! But I have a quick question as I'm in the middle changing my TB on the 2002 forester/auto tranny.

The cam sprocket timing mark on the driver's side slid off from 12:00 to about 10:00 while I was changing the water pump and hoses.

Please confirm that I can just rotate the cam sprocket counter-clockwise till the timing mark lines up again with the notch on the cover?

Thanks

Dwayne & Becky
2002 Forester
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post #19 of 101 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 08:19 PM
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glad i found this thread. my 04 fxt auto has 83k miles on it. the radiator just blew an endcap. i was thinking about replacing t-belt, pulley, water pump.
would it be recommended?
also, would it be recommended to replace the seals while im at it?
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post #20 of 101 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 09:11 PM
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Everyone's right on how the top driver's side sprocket wants to slip. Real pain; if it spins, it's not the end of the world you just need to rotate the correct direction to re-align. If you keep googling, you can find the PDFs and other good instructions for walking through it. I did my 04 2.5 XT earlier this year, but had my laptop wiped and didn't keep the instructions :(

Another tip I haven't seen: I used small (but strong) plastic clamps to hold the belt on the sprockets as I was aligning it. That helped out! Also, once I got the belt all the way on, due to their still being some slack in the belt (waiting for the tensioner expanded) it appeared one side was off by one mark. Before I beat myself up, I rotated the cranks a few cycles and everything then lined up! I rotated a half dozen times and checked after that and sure enough it was perfect.

I also used the breaker bar against the frame near the battery to break the crankshaft bolt loose. I've done that before (on my 99 Forester) but it was scarier to do it on this one. I actually broke a 3/8 to 1/2 socket adapter doing it!

As mentioned, a piece of cardboard will help protect your radiator or air condensor. fins PLEASE do this as a slip or a dropped wrench could ruin your radiator.

Oh, and the part that needed stitches: when tightening the crankshaft bolt and using just the drivetrain strain rather than a chain wrench to hold the pulley, you end up starting the torque wrench at one fender and pushing all the way over to the other fender. BE AWARE that as you relax your stroke/pushing on the wrench, the cams will unexpectedly spin and swing the torque wrench back over to the other fender. This may trap your hand between the wrench and the metal tab that holds the radiator on. The thin skin on the back of your hand will slice right open. At this point, you will want to use some direct pressure and grit to hold it shut while you complete putting the car back together.

Just be sure to find instructions and ONLY rotate the cams the direction it says! Read several times to keep it straight.

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post #21 of 101 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshmikesad View Post
glad i found this thread. my 04 fxt auto has 83k miles on it. the radiator just blew an endcap. i was thinking about replacing t-belt, pulley, water pump.
would it be recommended?
also, would it be recommended to replace the seals while im at it?
Differing camps of thought on the seals; I believe in don't touch it if it ain't broken (i.e. leaking). The belt tensioner is also recommended, but it's daggum expensive. When I replaced it on my 99, the new one didn't seem any better than the old one. But I replaced it all the same on my 04 XT because I didn't want to chance it. I did not replace all the idler pulleys, but one was obviously not rotating properly and was bluish from the heat. Replaced it.

Typical recommendation is to replace the water pump while you are in there, SOLELY due to the fact that if it goes you have to do a timing belt job to replace it. If yours has never been replaced, I would go ahead anyhow. Or if you'd rather save the $150 or whatever it costs and don't mind tearing in to it again later, then don't bother. I didn't replace mine because it had already been done under warranty at 56k so I'm taking a gamble. And I can do it myself if need be.

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post #22 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011, 06:21 AM
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BUMP for this.

I am in the same predicament.
My driver-side top (intake) cam rotated about 180degs.
It happened so fast I don't know which way it rotated.
Which way should I rotate it back?

Then my driver-side bottom (exhaust) cam rotated about 30 degs clockwise.
Luckily I saw which way that rotated and am planning on rotating
it back counterclockwise to get it into position.
Is this going to be ok rotating it backwards?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwayne N View Post
Hey All,

Great info! But I have a quick question as I'm in the middle changing my TB on the 2002 forester/auto tranny.

The cam sprocket timing mark on the driver's side slid off from 12:00 to about 10:00 while I was changing the water pump and hoses.

Please confirm that I can just rotate the cam sprocket counter-clockwise till the timing mark lines up again with the notch on the cover?

Thanks
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post #23 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011, 09:15 AM
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bump

Quote:
Originally Posted by joshmikesad View Post
BUMP for this.

I am in the same predicament.
My driver-side top (intake) cam rotated about 180degs.
It happened so fast I don't know which way it rotated.
Which way should I rotate it back?

Then my driver-side bottom (exhaust) cam rotated about 30 degs clockwise.
Luckily I saw which way that rotated and am planning on rotating
it back counterclockwise to get it into position.
Is this going to be ok rotating it backwards?
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post #24 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 09:46 AM
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bump
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post #25 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 10:03 PM
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Just saw this question: according to this thread, the driver side cams: upper is clockwise, lower is counter-clockwise. This sounds right by my memory. Remember, most all these 2.5 turbo engines are the same so what works for your Forester is the same as the STi, Legacy, etc.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...t-106809.html?

Rotate one at a time. Do not rotate back to where it was if it spins without going the direction as stated.

EDIT: here's the official guide which confirms that. See pic on page 13 of 19. It's not well marked, but the upper diagram shows how NOT to rotate, the bottom of the diagram is the correct way.

http://www.subaru.com/content/downlo...IMING_BELT.pdf

95 Legacy
99 Foz
04 Foz XT

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post #26 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 10:16 AM
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Thanks.
I should have turned a couple pages in the manual.

Before I saw this,
I deduced that, if there was free play in a cam (springs were not compressed on a cam and no valves were open), that I could spin the other one in any direction without interference.
So I aligned the bottom exhaust counterclockwise, (wrong according to manual but the other cam was still at free play position so there would b no interference)
Then I rotated the upper intake cam counter clockwise to get it aligned. Now I am just waiting on my components, belts, idlers, etc.

Last edited by joshmikesad; 09-05-2011 at 01:43 PM.
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post #27 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 10:20 AM
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I just talked to mizumoauto. The kits they offer for EJ25 DOHC Turbo Engines include belts and pulleys made in taiwan by ITM. I saw on ITM's website that they make the timing belt but no mention of the idlers. Was the lady correct or was she just guesssing on the idlers? Would it be better to get the kit from them or get the kit from Gates? I want to make sure that the idlers all have double bearings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterw View Post
I purchased my parts from mizumoauto.com $209 for GMB water pump, Mitsuboshi timing belt, Japanese tensioner, three japaneese made idler pulleys from NTN and cam and crank seals. All seemed to be OEM quality. I got AC and alternator belts and thermostat from Timing Belt Kit Pro 703-339-7790. The entire replacement package was around $250.

Last edited by joshmikesad; 09-07-2011 at 03:29 PM.
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post #28 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:29 PM
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post #29 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 04:16 PM
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Wink

I use my breaker bar with a 15mm socket on the cam bolt to prevent the bastard from spinning on me.

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #30 of 101 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 04:26 PM
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Yeah I figured that one out. My previous hold up was that I was worried about moving them back because I was afraid that the valves would clank into each other if both cams were rotated in the wrong direction.

Now, my hold up is that I have NO PARTS to complete the job. I dont want to spend $500 on OEM Subie parts. I would like to keep it under $300, but still get quality parts. I would like to get a kit as it makes it more cost effective. I am trying to find the best kit to get. So far, Ive found a kit by Gates, Mizumoauto, some other ebay kits. I want to make sure that I get idlers with double bearings. Which is the best kit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by huck_this View Post
I use my breaker bar with a 15mm socket on the cam bolt to prevent the bastard from spinning on me.
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