Timing belt and pump change!!! - Page 9 - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #121 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-28-2012, 08:38 PM
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200 miles after complete timing belt kit change. I notice a small amount of oil below the oil pump. Maybe I need to re seal the oil pump Any comment on this....????
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2003 Forester 2.5X Auto
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post #122 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-28-2012, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sa_lontoc View Post
200 miles after complete timing belt kit change. I notice a small amount of oil below the oil pump. Maybe I need to re seal the oil pump Any comment on this....????
I admit, I was a little worried when it seemed like you didn't let that stuff cure, but I was too late. Sorry. I would clean it up really well and see if it comes back after a good drive. If it does you'll have to take a closer look. Let us know.
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post #123 of 128 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 11:38 AM
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I'm supposed to re do the sealant for the oil pump today but when I look at the area that look's like oil leak last week is now dry.

2003 Forester 2.5X Auto
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post #124 of 128 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sa_lontoc View Post
I'm supposed to re do the sealant for the oil pump today but when I look at the area that look's like oil leak last week is now dry.
If it were me, I'd want to see it leak again before going back in. I think, maybe, it was leaking a little right away, then cured and sealed. If it was still leaking I think you'd see it.
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post #125 of 128 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 06:56 PM
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Started my timing belt change today. The shops are closed today so I'll finish tomorrow. With that in mind I took some extra time inspecting and cleaning all of the parts removed during this process.

I also made a step-by-step walk through for brevity sake. I took these notes while watching Huck_this' videos (Thanks Huck!) late last night. I will correct details as I collect all the torque specs for bolts, etc.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Remove shroud from serpentine belts
2. remove radiator fans
- Be sure not to spill coolant out of the resivor
3. Loosen and remove the Starter tensioner.
4. Loosen the Alternator tensioner.
- there are two bolts that connect the alternator to the rest of the block, loosen these first.
5. Remove the Crankshaft pulley. (22mm)
- Place car in 5th gear
- Use wheel chocks
- use a "cheater" bar if possible.
6. Remove the timing belt cover (10mm)
7. Check the timing of the engine.
- With the timing belt exposed, screw the bolt back in. turn the engine (clockwise) until all the timing marks are TDC.
- be sure to take it out of gear from when you broke the pulley loose.
8. Prep to remove first pulley.
- Place a breaker wrench with a socket (17mm) on the right-hand camshaft-pulley and brace it against the starter pulley.
9. Remove the bottom-left tension pulley (14mm)
10. Remove the tensioner pulley. (14mm)
- Two hander.
11. Remove oil pump pulley
12. remove bottom-right toothed-pulley

(OPTIONAL STEP): This is a good time to drain the coolant and replace the Oil pump
- place an oil catch pan below
- disconnect the crank sensor
- seal the pump with Permatex
- (54 ft-lbs torque spec)

13. compress the tensioner pulley SLOWLY to align the pin holes, place an allen wrench or something strong enough to hold the tensioner in place while installing it.
- once in place, torque the bolt to 39NM/29ft-lbs.

14. Install the final pulley (bottom-left).

*******Check the timing marks several times during the reinstallation, this will help with any headaches later on!


Cheers!
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post #126 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 06:56 AM
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RE: REPLACING THE TIMING BELT ON AN '01 SUB FORESTER

Kudos for an excellent documentation of how to replace the timing belt, pump and tensioner.

A key reason your job went so well; is you sourced OEM parts--very important. I sourced parts that were allegedly "OEM quality" but sadly, they were not--not even close to true OEM reliability.

While I was a "bit" late in doing this service--at 170,000 miles, the old belt and tensioner were still in excellent condition and working fine. And, the belt had absolutely no fraying. However, the replacement parts did not do nearly as well.

A few months after replacing the belt and tensioner, whenever the temp dropped below 30 F, the engine had a nasty knock on a cold startup, a loud, metallic knock which lasted for 15 minutes or so, then slowly went away when the engine heated up.

The knock was caused by the tensioner which developed a leak around the tensioning rod, causing it not to maintain tension when cold. On startup the rod had about an 1/8th inch of free play and banged against the steel stop on every revolution of the belt, making a scary sound.

Some would say that I installed the tensioner improperly, but I compressed it slowly in the vertical direction using a press, following the instructions to the letter. Even so, the tensioner lasted only 6,000 miles before crapping out, compared to 170,000 with no failure for the OEM tensioner.

The replacement belt appeared to be of a higher quality, but the timing marks were off. Fortunately I had the factory service manual which showed where the cams were supposed to be when the crank mark is at the top. So, I dodged the bullet there.

After replacing the tensioner with one made by Gates--which comes compressed from the factory--it is working fine, even in freezing weather.

When I contacted the supplier of the "OEM Quality" parts, Mizumo, and let them know their tensioner had crapped the bed at 6,000 miles, they did not ask anything about what would cause such an "infant mortality" type of failure. Apparently, they are used to--or do not care--about such an indicator of horrendous quality. They simply replied with their party line that their warranty is good for only 90 days.

So, buyer beware. Avoid the cheap crap and remember that my aftermarket "OEM Quality" tensioner lasted only 3.5% as long (6/170) as a part with true OEM quality.
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post #127 of 128 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 01:43 PM
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Me, I'm chicken and take the car to All Makes in Calgary, the local Subaru specialist. They had the job done in just over 4 hours and dinged me a bit over$1000. Idlers got replaced.

Got in the car, turned the key -- and had to look at the RPM to know the engine was running.

Mileage is pretty much the same. Watching the oil consumption but suspect the usual 1/2 l per 1000km. on synthetic will continue.
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post #128 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-23-2013, 03:40 AM
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Hi All, So the Foz has done 128,000 kms (Subaru Aust recommend replace at 125,000km) so i am replacing my Timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, cam seals, crank seal and Oil pump o-ring, as well as valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals all in one hit in the next week - Christmas holidays right? I am keen to do it and I have all the OEM parts already to go but still want to check on a few things with the wonderful help on here.

1) Removing the crank pulley: I have a manual tranny so put it in 5th gear and I also have a homemade crank pulley wrench, 1/2 in breaker and cheater bars to help. Is this all I need?

2) Removing the cam sprockets. From what i read this is hard without a cam wrench and you need to use the old belt and a chain wrench to undo; or you loosen bolts prior to taking off old T-belt. Is that all the options?

3) Before putting on oil pump and water pump what do experienced guys use to prepare the block surface for gasket maker, i.e cleaning or any chemical cleaner or just rub with an oily rag?

4) If i take the sparks plugs out will that help reduce the amount that the LH cam sprocket wants to turn when left alone while I put the new belt on the rest of the pulleys?

5) How to tighten the cam sprockets? Doing it when the new belt is on is risky.. guess i need the tool or the chain wrench? I have a good torque wrench on hand for these and the crank pulley.

6) I plan on taking the fans out but not the radiator, from people who have done this before is that making it harder for me? How hard is it to remove the radiator?

7) Dont know what the TSB means when talking about the tightening angle for the crank pulley bolt: Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seal and thread; Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb); Tighten the crank pulley bolts keeping them in an angle between 65 degrees and 75 degrees.
NOTE:
Conduct the tightening procedures by confirming the turning angle of crank pulley bolt referring to the gauge indicated on timing belt cover.


What gauge is this?


I have the 2003-4 Forester TSB so I am hoping any changes to the engine are minimal for my 2007 EJ253. For instance, all the torques specs mentioned on here are the same for TSB I am using.

Any advice thats not already on here is welcome. If I get nothing from it at least this thread still going and will hopefully continue to help people like me who want to give the job a crack.

Thanks and Merry Christmas

Last edited by Luppy; 12-23-2013 at 04:20 AM. Reason: new question
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