Timing belt and pump change!!! - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Timing belt and pump change!!!

Thanks to Peaty giving me good info on doing the job. Thanks peaty your awesome

I disconnected the battery and left the headlights on to drain any residual current.

Then I removed all the stuff required to get the job done. The crank pulley needed a little more power to remove the 22mm bolt so a cheater bar was used.

Here are some pics with the 2.5 N/A front end taken apart to access the water pump.

Fully stripped front end.







New pump and crank seal installed.





Timing belt installed. I had the hardest time getting the belt on, so i loosened the cogged idler left of the water pump pulley. Then i slipped the belt over the smooth pump pulley. Notice the Allen key holding the Belt tensioner piston.










The OEM Timing belt is awesome. I really suggest using this part since it had the timing marks on the belt itself.

passenger side timing mark





crank timing mark




driver side timing mark





Full view of belt installed



View of Belt tensioner with Allen key removed.



I then flushed out the radiator. I never saw something so clean in my life. No deposits are crud coming out. Like new.

I also cleaned out the rad core with compressed air. I did the same with the condenser blowing air towards the front side of the car. A lot of crap came out

I then inspected the cleanliness with a light behind as i looked through. A/C should be good this summer.

All major and important bolts were torqued to the specified requirements. If you are good at wrenching, this is a pretty straight forward job.

After all the cooling system was buttoned up, i made a 50/50 mixture using OEM Scoob coolant with distilled water. Man is this stuff so dark green. Perfect for St-Patties day

Prior to pouring it into the rad, i also poured in the conditioner per instructions on the TSB that peaty sent me.

Then I started her up and ran it at 2000rpm's for 5 mins. Once heated up i knew it was all good to put the rad cap on. I never seen an engine as simple. I checked the hoses to make it burp and nothing came up. VW's are a nightmare for burping.


I've wrenched on VW's and all i can say is that the Subaru is way easier and probably one of the easiest engines to work on.

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #2 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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One more thing. I also notice a very responsive and smooth engine afterwards. Probably due to an ECU reboot and fresh timing belt. It used to garble when I would let go of the accelerator. Old timing belt must have been a little stretched and changing the timing a bit.

Now it purs like a kitten at idle and pulls well under WOT.

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #3 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 04:05 PM
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Congrats on doing it yourself. You make it look easy.

Richard
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post #4 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 04:16 PM
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Very good and YES it is Very Easy. Done it since MY90 Legacy LS wagon. The 2.2L is similar to the 2.5L SOHC. Tensioner was biggest change there. around the 1997 year for the 2.2L then same tensioner carried into the 2.5L SOHC.

I usually start it also when I get the timing belt on and tensioned and radiator filled, to ensure the timing is correct. Granted the ALT and a few other lights come on, but it's easier than removing it all again.

By the way, ensure you torqued the crankshaft pulley properly. Chilton's, Hayes and some early Subaru manuals have the wrong spec. It should be
177 N·m (18.0 kgf-m, 130.2 ft-lb).

98S, 2014 Impreza 5 dr Ltd (9 Subaru's since 1978, 7 were 5 sp) ILuvSubaru's
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post #5 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferret View Post
I usually start it also when I get the timing belt on and tensioned and radiator filled, to ensure the timing is correct. Granted the ALT and a few other lights come on, but it's easier than removing it all again.

By the way, ensure you torqued the crankshaft pulley properly. Chilton's, Hayes and some early Subaru manuals have the wrong spec. It should be
177 Nm (18.0 kgf-m, 130.2 ft-lb).
I did one full turn to line up the timing marks again by hand to see if there was any weird feeling coming from the ratchet.

Once all the timing belt was tensioned, I started it and stopped it within 5 seconds max. to check before going any further. If so it would have been easier than emptying the cooling system again.

Yup, the crank pulley is torqued to 130.2 ft/lb

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #6 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 05:29 PM
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Great job. I've only done one timing belt, on a Mazda 626, and it was not a fun piece of work.

I'm surprised that you got nice smooth response from a reset ECU. My experience has been just the opposite. Thought I'd killed the thing for a few startups till it relearned.

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post #7 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 05:24 AM
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Did you inspect the hoses while you had it apart?

I have been advised to do mine when I have the belt changed in a few weeks time as they are the original hoses.
I don't if the weather in our respective countries plays a part in the time interval between hose changes or not.

I helped a mechanic mate do the belt change on my old Holden VL Commodore and it was a painful exercise as the belt and pulleys weren't marked as easily as the Subaru in your pics, we had to count teeth on the belt - align pulleys etc and I vowed never again after that one.

Peter

MY03 XS 5SP White/Metallic Grey "Casper"
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post #8 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the hoses and they were in very good condition. I do believe the rubber they use today is way better then the yesteryears.

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #9 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:25 PM
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I love seeing this stuff. Kudos to a job well done!

Was this a weekend job, or how long did it take you? What tools were you glad you had, or were the most helpful? Which pulleys did you have to specifically align to the timing belt marks, and were there reference marks on the pulleys? And what's a TSB...The Subaru Bible?

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post #10 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 07:32 PM
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Good job! Did that myself about 6 years ago or so. Took some time, but felt good after I was done. Same in your case I'm sure!

USMC - One Shot, One Kill. You can run, but you'll die tired.
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post #11 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 09:43 PM
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Cool

Very nicely done huck!

Bren

Proud owners of a 03 XS & 2005 Lexus ES330
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post #12 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 08:46 AM
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that is an easy job, and good documentation. One trick I learned from a scooby tech that works very well is to take a breaker bar with a cheater bar on that and lay it on the frame rail (watch out for the A/C line) on the passengers side and tap the starter to break the crank pully loose. It works great. But I claim no responsibility if anyone screws it up (Anyone can srew anything up if they try hard enough).

01 Forester L-
Lots of suspension mods, no real engine mods

"Its more fun to drive a slow car fast than to drive a fast car slow"
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post #13 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddur View Post
I love seeing this stuff. Kudos to a job well done!

Was this a weekend job, or how long did it take you? What tools were you glad you had, or were the most helpful? Which pulleys did you have to specifically align to the timing belt marks, and were there reference marks on the pulleys? And what's a TSB...The Subaru Bible?
I had a basic metric ratchet set in 3/8 and 1/4 box size. I had a 1/2 " breaker bar and 22 mm socket for the crank pulley.

I also had 2 torque wrenches to meet the torque requirements. Was very easy to do indeed.

I had it all stripped including crank seal removal and water pump in 2 hours. My first time doing a scoob so i was a little more careful. What took the longest was emptying the rad and cooling system.

Putting it back together was simple. It took me 4 hours total!!!!

Instructions that peaty sent me were very clear. Timing marks are clearly visible on the pulleys. TSB= Technical Service Bulletin that Subaru issues to fix a discrepancy.

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #14 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOguy View Post
that is an easy job, and good documentation. One trick I learned from a scooby tech that works very well is to take a breaker bar with a cheater bar on that and lay it on the frame rail (watch out for the A/C line) on the passengers side and tap the starter to break the crank pully loose. It works great. But I claim no responsibility if anyone screws it up (Anyone can srew anything up if they try hard enough).
Done that worked well!

Just don't start the vehicle!

USMC - One Shot, One Kill. You can run, but you'll die tired.
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post #15 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-19-2007, 07:11 PM
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Great job and thanks for sharing the experience. Mine is due soon too and even though I would love to do it, due to time constraints I'll have a trusted shop do it for me.

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