JDM EJ25 in 1998 Forester DOHC swap with pics... - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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JDM EJ25 in 1998 Forester DOHC swap with pics...

OK, this topic started in the transmission section,(thanks for the help guys!) but my problem has expanded!
I have a 1998 forester w 170K that had the dreaded HG problem. I got a great deal on a JDM engine on eBay. I am aware that is the same motor that will likely fail however all things considered I went this route. If anyone can help me with the following questions it would be greatly appreciated.

1. Can I use the fuel injectors/FPR from the JDM engine? I want to use them because my current ones have 170k+ on them. What about the alternator power steering pump and AC compressor? Can I use them and/or save them for spares?

2. This is a pic of the old (original) engine. This setup goes from the t-stat housing to the oil filter adapter then out the other side of the filter adapter into the bottom of the block. Does this piece need to go on the JDM engine I am putting in the Foz? The JDM engine does not have the oil filter adapter nor a line to the engine block and t-stat housing. Would need to be taken off the original engine and swapped over...looks like a pain.... There are no sensors attached to any of it as far as I can tell and I honestly dont know what this is for...


3. I think this is a knock sensor, there are two. Do I use the ones that came on the JDM engine or the ones that WERE with my original engine?


4.I know you are supposed to swap over the intake manifold, however there are various other sensors etc attached to the JDM block...again, JDM or from the original. I have the EGR tapped and sorted out so thats not an issue.

5. The timing belt looks fine, however what is your take on replacing it along with the idler/tensioners? (remember its still out of the car) It has 55k miles on it, according to the sticker that was on it....if I get 3 years or 40k miles out of this car I think Ill be good.

Anything else? I know that seems like a lot but I honestly thought it was as easy as swapping over the intake mani. I wasn't ready for this and have a royal mess in the garage and a hell of a headache!

also if there is anything I left out or any tips PLEASE chip in....
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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oops...sorry about putting this in the wrong section...
but....Bueller? Ive been up all night and I am not any closer now than I was before!
throw me a bone!
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 04:29 AM
 
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1) Use your OEM fuel injectors. They are fine.

2) That is actually an oil cooler. Engine coolant runs through it to keep the oil temp stable. I'd swap it over. It isn't that hard.

3) That is actually the crank position sensor. If the connector is the same as your stock one, then you can leave it on. If the connector is different, it is easier to swap them. It's a simple hall-effect sensor, so they are interchangeable if the connector is the same (they are interchangeable if the connector is different, too, but that makes it harder). The knock sensor is on your drivers side at the rear of the motor, right in front of the transmission. You can access it from the top. The knock sensors are the same, but the connector is different. Keep the JDM one and when your stock one cracks, which it inevitably will, remove it and swap the connector over to the JDM sensor (de-pin the two connectors and swap them), then use the JDM sensor. The knock sensor is like $60, and they are all the same.

4) Use all original. They worked before the HG failure, they'll work still. Block sensors are all easy to reach. Keep the JDM ones as spares, since most of the sensors are just hall-effect sensors (cam pos, crank pos) or other simple devices.

5) JDM engines are ALL pulled from scrap cars, or cars that have exceeded their mileage tax value (cars over 50k miles are charged more tax in Japan). So if those 55k happened over the last 10 years, then things are probably OK. If they happened in the first 5 years, then the car has been sitting in a junkyard not running for 7 years. I'd at LEAST replace the idler and tensioner. They are cheap and easy insurance. I'd probably do the timing belt too.

In fact, here is what I would do.

I would take the JDM engine, pull the heads off, clean out the combustion chambers and the piston tops. Take off the oil pan and inspect everything. Put new head gaskets and all new gaskets/seals on it, and bolt it all back together. Then I'd drop it in.

I'd yank out the stock EJ25, pull the heads, put new head gaskets on it, put it back together and put it on e-bay as a bare long-block. You should be able to recoup enough to at least cover the refreshing on both engines.

With all new seals and gaskets, new timing belt, tensioners, and idlers, I don't see any reason you couldn't get another 150k out of the car for almost no up-front investment.

09 SWP Outback 2.5XT 5MT 263whp, 337 lb-ft
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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I owe ya one

Thank you, Thank you, THANK YOU!
Just what I needed....
One thing about the fuel system and why I wanted to replace the injectors.....
Before the hh problem the cel was on....I forget the code it threw but it was basically saying the gas cap was faulty....I replaced that and it threw it again.... I was also getting slightly less than normal mpg....The car was running a tad rough....and I don't mean the standard subbie rumble..... My thoughts were to go ahead and replace what I could fuel system wise now and see if the cel popped back up....I undersand the newer ones could be bad.... But that's why I was asking if I could swap them...

Thanks again man....real life saver! You dont happen to know the torque spec for the 8 bolts on the drie plate that attaches it to the engine do you? I have looked through a few hundred pdf's and can't find the torque spec......
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Ugh! The oil cooler nut that holds it to the block is huge! Looks like another trip to the store for some BIG metric 1/2" sockets....
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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talking to myself here, but I think I am going to do a full blown writeup on this procedure. Its not that its hard, just that info is so scattered and the FSM is no help. I have had to use the 1990-1999 Legacy, the 200+ forester, and the 1998 forester, and its still a pain finding the info in pdf form.
another FYI for anyone that cares....you cant swap the oill cooler over UNLESS you get a new t-stat cover or modify it in some other way. When you move the USDM t-stat cover over it clocks wrong and puts the lower rad hose right into the timing belt no matter which way you turn it...


USDM (right)
JDM (left)
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 01:06 PM
 
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A common problem on the older cars was to have dirt and moisture trapped under the plastic fuel filler neck cover, and it would eventually rust through. That would throw a fuel tank pressure code.

Pull that cover off and check it out. If it's rusted through, you need to replace it. If you need to replace it, you have to drop the tank out of the car IIRC.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 01:09 PM
 
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I THINK you can use the T-stat cover from a 1991 Legacy Turbo. They had a cooler, and a 7 o'clock outlet. It has been years since I saw one, but I'm pretty sure it'll work.

Alternatively, you might be able to use an 02 WRX one.

Or modify the JDM one to work. Drill it, tap it, and use a barb-fitting. Or build up the area with JB Weld, smooth it, drill it, then use a barb fitting.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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good advice, thanks guys. Ill check out both ideas...
Im not on here much but do you think a full blown write up would be beneficial? I would do one if it would get used.....but I don't see many people here anyways going this route....
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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success! started on the first try and it runs great!
one last question, if anyone knows and has tie to look at the below pic and tell me where the other end of that t fitting for the vacuum system goes. its hissing bad and when I cover it the engine drops by about 150 rpm and seems to run even better yet.
any ideas?
cant find it anywhere in the manuals...as you are looking at the engine frokm the front its just befind and on the left side of the intake mani...
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone wanna go look on thier car for me?

Good and bad news as far as the old engine...turned out to be a good move to go with the JDM engine. Just got the oil analysis back on the motor that was in the car and it was afu! over 2x the normal amount of fuel in the oil....they suggest a bad injector...go figure! Too much antifreeze and about 4 times too much wear. Sure am glad I didn't redo that one!
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 01:46 PM
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success! started on the first try and it runs great!
one last question, if anyone knows and has tie to look at the below pic and tell me where the other end of that t fitting for the vacuum system goes. its hissing bad and when I cover it the engine drops by about 150 rpm and seems to run even better yet.
any ideas?
cant find it anywhere in the manuals...as you are looking at the engine frokm the front its just befind and on the left side of the intake mani...
I believe the top one goes to the vacuum on the cruise control and the lower one is for your fuel pressure regulator. Just look at the other engine and swap vacuum lines.

2001 L 5 spd, Borla header, custom exhaust.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-05-2010, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks.... One end does go to the fpr... Looks like cruise has everything it needs too.... Also.... Old engine only has a cut wire.....
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Well still no luck on the vac hose. One side does go to the FPR.
Anyhow its running and driving good. Got the coolant system burped. Drove it about 50 miles.
Smooth as butta.

Im sure ill be over in the suspension forum as I am doing both rear bearings today.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-31-2011, 05:24 PM
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the t valve ur looking at gos to a second purge seleniod normaly bolted to strut tower or inner fender well ps i cant spell for crap lol
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  Subaru Forester Owners Forum > Technical Forums and Vehicle Assistance > Engine and Exhaust > EJ25 - 2.5L Non-Turbo (1998-2010)

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