SeaSpyder

I'm new to Subaru and tacked this job with much ease, it made me cringe taking out the headbolts they felt like they we're pulling threads out with them but eventually loosened up no issues with any of them. My drivers side head was the only one leaking with 130K miles on the engine, the attached picture shows the story. Happy New Year everyone.

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walth

cool man!

is that the bottom of the head? The usual spots for it to corrode and leak?

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1SIKSIX

Any tips or advice for these cars? I may be throwing some thicker mls gaskets and arp studs in there soon. Did you have the heads resurfaced?

SeaSpyder

Thread Starter

Walth yes thats the bottom of the drivers side head gasket, the black coating is bubbling and flaking off the gasket.

1SIKSIX stay with factory thickness gaskets, my heads we're perfectly true and flat and had never been overheated, there was no other leaks or issues on the engine other than the drivers side gasket, the pistons had no carbon build up and the cylinders looked factory new, no gorooves and cross hatch machining still very visible.

1SIKSIX

I was gonna put thicker ones on to drop the compression a bit for a s/c. No carbon buildup? you must do the "italian tuneup" regularly. lol

nrhoffman

Hi, a couple of questions for you.

How long did this job take you?

Also, did you do it by yourself, or did you have help?

I need to do the same thing to my h.g. Hopefully my engine will be as pristine as yours.

link1896

Italian tune up is the only way, all my ej's see 5-6k rpm regularly with full throttle, but lifting off before gear changes if I can help it.

To replace the head gaskets I prefer to pull the engine out of the car. Without Subaru specific experience it will take a full weekend.

walth

Welcome to the forum :)

I can't answer for SeaSpyder.. But a lot of how fast or "slow" you are on this job, IMO, will reflect on a few.. err.. several things:

1. how much reading / research you've done
2. experience and familiarity with what needs to be moved, loosened, removed
3. having as many of the necessary tools and parts before starting the job
4. how busy you feel verses how much time is flying by. Usual case especially when doing something for the first time
5. how much you are cleaning as you remove parts or prep for install.
6. having a nice big workspace or shelving for storage during downtime is important and helps with organization
7. help is nice.. as long as they're teachable or know what you're doing and what needs to be done and how to do most things. Not rare but can be a crutch if you or both are learning as you go.
8.. others? sure..

Knowing how fast other people do a similar job might benefit, but it might not. There are a lot of factors and perspectives to keep in mind.

I've been working on this post for a while.. As link suggested pulling the engine, I would agree in methodology. More space, easier to see, easier to work generally, etc. Ideally, I will one day own a spare engine to have ready to drop in. A good amount of money sitting in my garage but could save a lot of downtime depending on the circumstances.

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toysbyus

I envy and respect you DIYS-ers so much. I have one weeping HG on my 2003 and am watching it carefully, no problems, elevated temps OR increased leaking or losing of any fluids BUT I sure would just love to watch the HGs being done.........totally beyond my mechanical expertise and tool resources........but what a dream.

This week, two of my coworkers tried to switch out a bad EGR valve on an old Tracker....and, as usually happens to me and them, a bolt snapped off, all sorts of issues ensued and any savings by DIYS were eaten up by falling back on a mechanic to fix it all.....

It sure is an inspiration to watch guys who can brave the challenge successfully do it......

Steve

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dirtroadrunner

I did mine this summer. Took about 4 hours to remove the engine (using a 2-ton Harbor Freight hoist) and get the heads removed, by myself. However, I'd pulled a Subie engine before so it was easier the second time around.

Putting it all back together (after getting the heads rebuilt at a machine shop) took about 10-12 hours if I recall, with one person helping me. We also replaced the clutch and re-sealed the oil pan, put on a new timing belt, and I re-sealed the wrist pin access hole at the back of the block. It is a pretty easy job and actually kind of fun. I'd recommend a engine hoist (a 2-ton Harbor Freight one is around $200), a load leveler for the hoist, and an engine stand (again, around $50 at Harbor Freight).

It is doable solo, the only hard part is getting the engine into the car, it usually takes one person to guide the engine to mate with the transmission and another to push it with the hoist. My fiance actually helped me on it and speeded it up a lot as she was handing me tools, getting me ice water, etc.

walth

toysbyus.. an angry bolt (seized threads / stretching or other issue) can potentially be saved with heat or an impact gun (maybe) or both but usually will break with ratchet/socket/wrench. Sometimes you won't know the bolt is breaking either.

I always grease bolts on reinstall. No matter how clean, new or rusty they are. Not much but it - laymans speak - helps keep crud out and kind of gives a fresh start and the next time you do work you will thank yourself.

my 04 is weeping and my 03 is superb clean. A weeping HG can go for 20k-50k+!! So I've read.. But when you go to do the job, follow the examples like dirtroadrunner and many others and myself in general.. might as well do all kinds of stuff while you're in there so you don't have to go back later to do something you could have done earlier.

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nrhoffman

My plan for the repair is as follows: I've been shopping around for the appropriate tools at harbor freight and other various online sources, getting general prices for a hoist, load leveler, and engine stand, as well as many other tools.

Now for what I am actually planning to do once I remove the engine: Head gaskets (of course), timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, idlers, thermostat, coolant, water pump, cam and crank seals, including all appropriate gaskets. I'm sure I am missing some items for this list...

Honestly, the part that scares me the most is stripping out or breaking a bolt.. any suggested precautions?

flstffxe

Not really, it takes time wrenching to get the feel for when to stop working a bolt, nut, stud... Even mechanics that have been around for decades still strip or break one now and then and have to fix it. Fixing it after the fact also comes down to what the person is skilled in and the tools that are available.

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walth

what flstffxe said and one precaution.. don't try to start a bolt with a soctet/ratchet or wrench unless absolutely necessary. I would consider it a very rare necessity.

Might seem like common sense but you can go pretty fast with a tool and not know it is slightly off until the damage is done or it's tighten up so much you cannot get it loose. By hand it should be smooth turning from the start. If it tightens up quick, back out and assess the situation. Does it look like it's truly in line with how it should be, etc.. Does the flat of the bolt head look flat with the surface (most threads are perpendicular to the surface).

As far as breaking goes, IMO you shouldn't have any issues with breaking a bolt unless you over tighten tiny bolts like Ford Vulcan's use for valve covers (ask me how I know lol). Small bolts are usually good tightened to "snug" and if it needed to be tighter they should have used a bigger bolt. Or the back end of most cars where it gets more rusty than the front like suspension parts where bolts might not come loose for 5-15+ years and bond very well.

You can also try keeping your ratchet firm with one hand and slapping or hitting the hand holding the ratchet so as to act like an impact, breaking the bond throughout instead of a consistent force to the head.

Lots of tips ;) enjoy learning, we all start somewhere.

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nrhoffman

Thank you all for your tips. I do have a little mechanical experience from being on the Formula SAE team here at UA, but advise is always accepted. I am by no means an expert. Nor am I going to act like I am.

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