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#16 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,179
Location: Atlanta, Knoxville, Greenville
Car Year: 2006
Car Model: XT Limited
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Depends entirely on how long the wire is that you're taking 1-2" from and what you consider "worth mentioning."
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#19 (permalink) | |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,298
Location: Newberg, OR
Car Year: 2007
Car Model: Forester Sports XT
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 36 reviews
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Quote:
![]() Bobby... ['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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'07 FSXT - COBB Surgeline dyno Protune - Stage 1+ '03 X +AVO turbo kit = XT (son's) '95 Neon Sport |
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#20 (permalink) |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,298
Location: Newberg, OR
Car Year: 2007
Car Model: Forester Sports XT
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 36 reviews
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I suggest doing this before investing money into a gounding kit.
![]() Here's a link to a previous grounding thread. Do it yourself grounding kit Bobby... ['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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'07 FSXT - COBB Surgeline dyno Protune - Stage 1+ '03 X +AVO turbo kit = XT (son's) '95 Neon Sport |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 346
Location: Seattle, wa
Car Year: 2011
Car Model: Forester X Premium
Transmission: AT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Anybody know of anybody that did this on a 2011 Foz with the FB25 engine?? :)
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on way, so, got Foz
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#22 (permalink) |
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has awakened!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,298
Location: Newberg, OR
Car Year: 2007
Car Model: Forester Sports XT
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 36 reviews
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The grounding issues were mostly in the earlier Foresters & not a common problem on the later... newer Forester, as the factory corrected much of the earlier issues.
![]() Still... nothing wrong with adding more grouding. We add some on both our Foresters. We opted for the "stealth" installation, blending the added grounding with the factory wiring to make it like it was always there. ![]() Bobby... ['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
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'07 FSXT - COBB Surgeline dyno Protune - Stage 1+ '03 X +AVO turbo kit = XT (son's) '95 Neon Sport |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 346
Location: Seattle, wa
Car Year: 2011
Car Model: Forester X Premium
Transmission: AT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Makes sense 2.5x, I could swap out the factory grounds for seemingly stock ones that are superior :)
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on way, so, got Foz
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#24 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,179
Location: Atlanta, Knoxville, Greenville
Car Year: 2006
Car Model: XT Limited
Transmission: 4EAT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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I originally posted to defend the assertion that length does indeed play a role in resistance. That is all. The difference between 9 and 10 femto-ohms vs 9 and 10 giga-ohms is different in this context. But a 10% reduction in resistance is universal to any context. That's all I was getting at.
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#25 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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awesome post.
here was mine that i did pretty much as soon as i got my forester. Grounding Wires Installed i ground every car that i have. it works wonders. some people say no, but i disagree. on my other car on the infiniti forums i sell my kits to the members and they love them.
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2008 2.5x Sports |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1
Car Year: 2005
Car Model: Forester LL Bean
Transmission: AT
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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It's not unusual for the grounds connected to the battery to fail with age. Usually it's a corrosion issue. Replacing the ground from the battery to the body and another directly to the engine block is more than adequate. Good quality cabling with adequate stranding and guage is important. Thorough cleaning of the connection points is very important too!
What I see in this photo spread is total overkill. Remember the engine is made primarily of aluminum and steel. Electrons pass through the metal engine components with much less resistance than through those jumpers. My guess is that someone will chime in that copper has better conductivity than either aluminum or steel. True, but the total mass of the engine metals is so comparatively large that it ends up being far more conductive than the relatively small copper wires. Both aluminum and steel are reliable conductors as well. At least 99% of the power utility wiring on towers, poles and underground is made up of a combination of the two. Silver powder is often used at critical connection points in substations and busswork. This would be total overkill on a car. Dielectric paste will help prevent corrosion though. |
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#27 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Location: california
Car Year: 1998
Car Model: forester
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
AlO2 is a poor conductor at both DC and RF. It starts to form almost instantly (a feature we take advantage of) and protects the metal underneath. If you really want to keep Al-Al or Al-Cu joints happy, use Penetrox A13 (the high temp stuff for under the hood). NoAlox is another but I can't find it's drip point. Both use zinc powder in grease (organic or silicone). Use gloves and old clothes, the stuff will NOT wash out. I can tell you from both a DC and RF ground standpoint, most cars can stand better connections between the block and the body. Some alternators assume the mounting bracket makes a good return path (my 05 wrx has it's own return). My experience is that's a bad assumption after a few years (bad being somewhat relative). Once you get a good tinned copper braid between the block and the body and between the battery and the body, most everything bolted directly to the block should be good. That being said, I've pulled steel bolts out of Al castings and seen horrible corrosion where the prep wasn't done right. Using a DVM with one lead on the pos battery terminal and the other on the neg., check your voltage. Then, using the meter's neg lead, poke at the various ground points. More than a few tenths of a volt different would make me curious. Last edited by mtnredhed; 11-30-2012 at 04:04 PM. Reason: clear up test point |
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#29 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 65
Location: Duluth, MN.
Car Year: 2005
Car Model: Subaru Forester 2.5x
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
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#30 (permalink) |
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2006 XTI LTD
Contributing Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 337
Location: Cedar, Michigan
Car Year: 2006
Car Model: Forester XTI LTD SG9
Transmission: 2007 STI 6 speed, HP Techs-MPS LR 2.5, Junior Tuned, 560 WHP/ 490 WTQ
Gallery:
0
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Grounding kits are not something new. These have been around for a long time and they are proven to work very well. Some friends of mine had tested the effectiveness of the additional grounding with a before and after test on a stage 2 STI on their Mustang dyno. They measured 2 additional horsepower after adding a grounding kit with 6 added grounding wires. I have been using a 6 wire grounding kit for 3 years. I have also not had and negative battery terminal corrosion since adding the additional grounding. Most cars are under-grounded from the factory and will benefit from a properly executed grounding kit! Nice job on yours OP.
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2006 XTI LTD, HP Techs/ MPS SS LR 2.5, '07 DCCD Pro 6 speed/ R180 drive line Last edited by manitou; 12-01-2012 at 04:29 AM. |
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