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Old 11-07-2012, 04:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 99 oil pan gasket replacement?

Do I have to lift the motor to get to the back bolts of the oil pan to replace the gasket? It's pretty wet, not dripping and my son is dying to take more stuff apart on his Forester. I just dont want him to get too deep. Doesnt look as easy as a 4.0L Jeep. LOL
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Depends on the tools at hand, But yes some times you need to undo the two engine mount nuts and pitch stop to raise the engine up a couple inches.

No gasket, Fuji-bond or Permatex Ultra Gray. If the pan comes off check over the oil pick up tube and replace the O-ring at its base.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Will removing the bolts to the motor mounts give me enough room to raise the motor without disconnecting anything else? My son seems to think he can get to them using a double knuckle. He might get them out but I'm not sure he could get any torque on them when reassembling.
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would unbolt the exhaust from the heads, unbolt the 2 lower motor mounts, and the mount on the top trans... I think the other guy called it the pitch stop... After that you should be able to put a block of wood under the oil pan and jack it up a few inches... Then put a jack stand somewhere under the trans to hold up everything and lower your jack. I put a jack stand under the trans just forward of the trans pan, kind of where the drain bolt for the front diff is...

Id say if you had enough resources, take the whole engine out and replace some other things that wouldn't be so easy if it were still in the car... ie, head gasket as a preventive measure, cam and crank seal, rear main seal...
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Head gaskets are good, changed at 125k. The only problem is the oil pan. I'll have him try it. Worst case we would pull the motor. Got the tools, just time that is in short supply. LOL
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you need permatex and I believe there is a oring in there too. its going to need a half day to cure too so make sure you have time for that.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I haven't done an oil pan but I could stand there and look important if you guys want some company/third hand. Let me know.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes you do need to lift the motor. Undo the motor mount bolts (the 2 nuts that hold it to the sub frame) and disconnect the pitch stop mount and hoist the motor up. The trans will hit the tunnel and stop you from lifting anymore. You also want to remove the top brackets holding the radiator in as it might want to move when you hoist the motor. Removing the exhaust isnt necessary but would prob make the process easier since you will have more space to work

Remove all the 10mm bolts from the pan. It will not just pop off. you will have to work at it with a razor blade to cut the seal. Its kind of a pain in the ***.

Once you get it off scrape all of the excess silicone off and clean out the pan of debris. Put a nice sided bead of Fuji-Bond around the pan. Make sure you do not over tighten the bolts as they can strip out quite easily. They really just need to be snug.

Then just lower the motor back down, put the motor mount nuts back on and then attach the pitch stop and your done.

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Old 11-14-2012, 11:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks. When it gets a little colder my son will do this.
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