No HG changed and No additive added- this was really just a "put it together with cooling" to see if all was put back together right. I figured there would be time, and need, to "tweak".
I had put it together before and it ran fine but started getting hot (about a week ago see other post), I let it cool somewhat, put it on the ramps and was idling etc, adding coolant,burping out the rad to see if air was why it was over heating. I decided to stop, turned it off, then changed my mind, but it wouldn't start. I chugged and puffed white every time it turned over. Neighbor said the timing had gotten off etc, I hadn't changed the tensioner (no $) as it seemed okay- but if it had slipped, that was all I could figure had failed. I got a new tensioner and then did this attempt.
Long story- I bought the vehicle and all sorts of temp issues started coming up- I read here and elsewhere probly a hg but also found changing the tstat to oem (previous owner had aftermarket) made the thing run cooler- not so variable temp readings. I could get to and from work, which is what I am after.
But, I also was convinced since I couldn't afford to replace the hg to use some of the Barr's type HG treatment. Between that and the tstat, I was running okay- getting to work etc.
Then couple of weeks later the wp started leaking quite suddenly. Seemed to be moving water, but leaking (Original and veh has 178k on it).
It was also leaking from a coolant tube the water was running by the wp so I (changed that 80 bucks) then realized it was also the wp.
Had to do the TB to do the WP, so, here we are.
Now it's hard to start, and when it was running, it has the steam and the water dripping. Acts like it's definitely got water in there.
I was thinking (dangerous for me to do) that the new wp and belt etc has increased pressures and the Barr's is out of the system, so if it was helping, it's gone, and now the hg has out right failed... ?
Doing the HG seems like a big job, at least time consuming- week or more of car down (I am single parent, nd a vehicle) and buying kit and some additional tools. Plus, getting to work would require a rental.
A mechanic who I have used over the years and worked on Subes is quoting me 1500 to 1800 depending on the heads' condition.
I don't have all that money without doing some real pulling it out of the cracks, but they can turn it around in 3 days and I need to be able to get to work.
Sorry for the long winded story, but I wanted to clarify some and get ya'lls thoughts.
EDIT I also got a quote for an engine from Japan with 40k for 1300 delivered. Wondering if that may be a possible route.
Almost sounds easier than the HG :)
Last edited by Thousandwatts; 06-04-2012 at 08:32 AM.