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Need some tips on how to stop on ice / black ice

9K views 42 replies 28 participants last post by  dr k 
#1 ·
For once I would like to stop before the stop sign instead of skidding couple of feet pass it. I'm already slowing down way before the stop sign, anti-lock kicks in, and my car is still going. Would it be better for me to be at a almost complete stop couple of yards of where I want to be and then craw forward just incase there is ice there?
 
#35 ·
One thing I didn't see mentioned yet was when you are coming up to a stop sign move over about a foot to the right so you are not in the same path as everyone else before you. Everytime they slide they shine up the road nice and slick. If you move to the side a bit you get the road less travelled as they say and it's sometimes not as slick.

That and I seriously recommend winter tires if it snows often where you are.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Subjective criticism aside, I stand by my suggestion. I've used the technique as described for many years, and it's always been helpful in controlling my MY2000 RWD pickup in wintery conditions.

And, Valvestem and I aren't alone: http://mercedesforum.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-34278.html

The technique even worked with my FWD '93 Acura Legend to remove engine torque pulses when the ABS system cycled the front brakes on and off. In fact, there were certain combinations of winter road conditions (i.e., snow/ice covered downhill parking ramps) in which I couldn't stop that AT- and ABS-equipped car unless I put it into neutral.

In the spirit of full disclosure, the Legend's behavior may have been an unusual artifact of its particular generation. The ABS system in my original '91 Legend never worked correctly, and Honda replaced that car with a '93 model after I "suggested" we contact a BBB arbitration panel to discuss a brake system-related "lemon". But it was the '93 that gave me problems when driving/stopping in snow.

Nonetheless, two of my original points may require clarification.

"...shifting from "D" to "N" at low speed as you approach a full stop" means just that. I'm not suggesting coasting down a hill willy-nilly in "N". Instead, say, as you approach a controlled intersection, are otherwise slowing down (or trying to), are traveling at perhaps 5 mph, and intend to stop, then use this technique to help bring the vehicle to a controlled stop.

It's analogous to shifting an MT-equipped vehicle into neutral as "...you approach a full stop".

If it doesn't work for you, then don't bother. But, as one of my sisters-in-law discovered while driving on packed snow, it even helped her keep her van stopped when the rear drive wheels otherwise overcame the locked front wheels and started propelling her van forward.

Second, as I mentioned, and except for Valvestem's comment above, I don't know if this technique will work for AT-equipped AWD vehicles like the Subaru. I'd be interested in comments from others who may have actually tried the technique.

Regards,
Jim / crewzer
 
#40 ·
Subjective criticism aside, I stand by my suggestion. I've used the technique as described for many years, and it's always been helpful in controlling my MY2000 RWD pickup in wintery conditions.

"...shifting from "D" to "N" at low speed as you approach a full stop" means just that. I'm not suggesting coasting down a hill willy-nilly in "N".
Alright, I missed that bit ("near complete stop"), I apologize. I will not argue against that, as I used the very same approach with my old RWD Chevy. For the FWD... you just remove (a) variable(s) you cannot control (whatever the computer(s) do(es) with idle speed and ABS), but again, that only applies to near-stop (and only in a straight line).

However, for the Forester this just does not make much sense, and does not make you stop any better. And yes, I tried that before - staying in 1st (assuming you can get to it safely - 2nd otherwise) is better and safer. Locking just the front or rear wheels at low speed is not a easy task (handbrake aside), and even then, the engine torque is always useful in counteracting that (as well as 4-wheel lock-up) and controlling skidding.

However, taking in your comments, I admit that it will not hurt to switch to neutral while you're near complete stop (I do that too while driving my wife's Forester, albeit for different reasons). Again, that assumes a calm stop at traffic light with no chance of any sort of "emergency maneuver" suddenly becoming necessary, and not faster than a few mph. Just to clarify :)

P.S. I just realized that not everyone is driving with the ABS OFF, and therefore some of my arguments might sound strange. There are two things here: first, I'd suggest everyone to try driving without ABS, as it can significantly enhance your braking performance on slush, snow and packed snow (disclaimer: this requires understanding of threshold braking and skid control, as well as a fair bit of practice). Second, even with the ABS ON, engine torque will still enhance braking, as it will allow to spin up the wheels (after full or partial lockup) faster than the traction alone.
 
#39 ·
Looks like someone went overboard in their reactive post.:tissue:

I consider the word "idiotic" to be unneccesary, rude and demeaning.

And I really got a kick out of the "advice" being compared to telling kids it's OK to drink and take drugs.:crazy:

All I know, it's be working for me for quite a number of years, so I passed the idea along, which I thought that what was the thread about.

If it bothered certain people, that's what the scoll button is for.:icon_biggrin:
 
#43 ·
Yeah ^ I know, I've been watching it for awhile, reading what happened out in CA and in TX...Still monitoring..I'm glad I have a garage here at work to put my OEM bash plate back on..Wish it was the metal one though...Hopefully the 4 bolts will be enough to keep it on until I get the real deal..
 
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