Have a 2017 Forester 2.5i. I was under the impression I should warm it up a few minutes or more before driving each time. What is Subaru's advice on this?
How long should I warm it up? Is 30-60 seconds enough?
You can start driving immediately. When you cold start your car it should only take a couple minutes for everything to warm up to normal operating temperatures. Until then just try not to have a lead foot.
This is covered in the owner's manual. You did read the manual, didn't you?
To paraphrase: Start vehicle. Drive vehicle. Drive vehicle gently until the blue idiot light is extinguished, indicating that the engine is warm enough for non-gentle driving.
To paraphrase: Start vehicle. Drive vehicle. Drive vehicle gently until the blue idiot light is extinguished, indicating that the engine is warm enough for non-gentle driving.
i got about half way through this run down before my brain delay caught up with me...and it registered the opening, "to paraphrase:". "did subaru really call it an "idiot light?....". im an idiot.
but yes, to the OP, i add my similar vote to the pile. dont let it sit there idling for 10 mins while you stare at it out the window...
The only reason I was asking was because the sales guy told me to warm it up a few minutes or more and that seemed to contradict the manual. Guess I should have stated clearly my reason for asking as I'm not familiar with the way this forum works. :surprise:
On cold startup, my 2017 Forester XT revs itself to 2500 rpm for the first 20 seconds or so before settling down to a normal cold idle (about 1600).
I'm sure (well, kinda) that Mother Subaru knows what's best for her baby, but...
My old-school thinking says that, especially for a very cold engine, the moments right after startup will cause more engine wear than the rest of that day's use. That is because the oil pressure starts at zero and takes a while to reach and lubricate critical moving parts.
I'm "old school," too... that is why I started using synthetic oil long ago. Synthetic oils provide lubrication by clinging to parts after it's shut off... far better than old-school dino oils.
Our engines come with, and spec synthetic oils. Fuel dilution is now more of a problem than that ghost of cold wear... and idling past 30-seconds to a minute will increase fuel dilution.
When it's 10 deg F with a worse wind chill, NOT wasted money. That said, I still need to get a block heater for those really cold mornings. Better for warm up, gas mileage, and engine wear and tear. I like the idea of get in and go, but I do admit to starting the car, turning on front and rear defrost (seat heater as well), brushing off the snow, scraping the windows as needed.
My guess is that takes another 90 seconds - 3miinutes depending. Not perfect for the engine, but I suspect minimal long term impact using synthetic oil.
Also, regarding the idiot light: I can experience some predetonation (engine knock) on cold mornings when getting into the turbo a few minutes AFTER the light has gone off. It may be specific to my aftermarket parts/tune, but might not hurt to take it easy a bit longer even if the blue light is off.
Well if warming up the engine and or interior is bad and the engine cuts off when I open the door to get in, whats the sense in it ?
BTW, I have one. Got it thrown in on the deal though.
I get the same results with my scan gauge too. Right about 120 the light goes out. Someone on here told me that the oil temp and coolant temp are about the same. I found this not to be true, the oil temp is usually much cooler than the coolant until 30 or 40 miles are driven. Have you compared the 2?
Something that has always made me feel better is to run the car for 2-3 minutes then shut it off. Let the heat ooze around, and then later when you tear off gently, it seems to blow heat faster.
My hot take on cold starts:
-30 sec idle then gentle driving above freezing
-2-3 minutes idle then gentle driving 32deg-20def F
-however long it takes to get warm in the cabin 20deg F and down (Id rather sit inside a warm house than cold car).
Pure anecdotal experience with Subie engines is the ones that are run harder colder are more likely to have piston slap & burn oil. My cars are all north of 150k so things that could potentially accelerate wear matter to me. My unscientific opinion on the newer FB engines is cold running could be more of an issue than on the older EJ due to the thin oil & apparent predisposition to oil consumption.
I'm confused by what Subaru recommends for us to do. I notice that the idle is high at initial startup, but other owner's manuals like a VW GTI explicitly states that warming up is not necessary and just drive it and baby it.
We’re the best Subaru Forester Owners Forum to talk about the best years of the Subaru Forester, modifications and reliability history of the Subaru Forester.