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#1 (permalink) |
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I am a believer in breaking in a new engine using a specific technique to ensure optimum seating of the piston rings. It is fairly simple. the theory is you want to achieve maximum cylinder pressure when the engine is new, in order to seat the rings, but you do not want to over rev the rpm's beyond 75% of tachometer redline. So if your tach's redline is marked as, say, 6000rpm 75% of that is your max rpm threshold during break-in for the first 1000 miles (4500rpm). During the first 1000 miles I accelerate strong and brisk, but let off before the needle exceeds 75% rpm threshold on the tach. Of course this is hell on MPG during the break-in period, but I believe it pays off over the life of the vehicle in minimal oil consumption and optimal fuel economy and power.
I've broken in all my vehicles this way and they always proved to be very low to neglible oil consumption between oil changes, and returned good power and mpg for their model. Except for a 1994 Dodge truck I bought new, which I am convinced uses a quart of oil between changes simply because its a Chrysler product. I believe the last thing you want to do is baby the new vehicle during the first 1000 miles. Don't have a Forester yet, but if I get one, this is probably how I'll break it in. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Of course this is a topic that has been beaten to death. Some people believe you should "drive it like you stole it" right off the showroom floor and others will say to baby the hell out of it until after 1000 miles....I think the method above with a few brisk runs up too 4000-4500RPM's every once and a while is a good way to break in a new engine. Just don't floor the gas pedal.
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09' Spark Silver 2.5X Premium Last edited by Panos : 08-25-2008 at 11:58 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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With cars, the break in is not critical, as the motors will do OK if they are driven any way within reason. But a good break in will result in an engine that is optimized. With the bikes, the critical difference can be apparent. Too gentle, and the rings don't seat and the bike blows and burns oil. Too hard, and the pistons seize. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Yes, every acceleration cannot help but be followed by a deceleration, to maintain the speed and rpm limits of the break in. But on a modern car, the break in is not critical. As long as the engines are not abused, they get by, at least through the warranty period.
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#12 (permalink) |
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My brother is an automotive engineer & he says that most newer engines are put through a break in cycle at the factory & you mainly have to worry about breaking in the clutch & brakes for the 1st 4-500 miles. But he says break in a new engine he would get on the highway & short shift into 3rd gear and give it full throttle up to almost redline and coast back down & pull over & let t cool down or 15 - 30 minutes & Repeat 4 times. Go home & change the oil & then run it normally so the computer learns your driving habits.
He Says it worked on all of his test engines at Kettering University.
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2007 Forester 2.5 XT Stage II |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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The engine is started and run long enough for the ECU to go out of safe mode and begin running on sensor feedback, then the car is driven a hundred feet to a transmission testing and setting station and then to a final quality check station. The stations have rollers and the engine is revved up and down through the gears. Then the car gets a short drive over the bump section of a test track before being parked on the big lot. That is the extent of any Subaru factory break in. |
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