"The Danoz fix"
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This is a summary of the previous thread including instructions for the clamp fix for the FA20DIT powered MY14+ Forester XT (SJ series). The instructions may also apply to the MY15 WRX but this is yet to be confirmed. Subaru Australia will not replace these clamps for you so you must do this yourself or get a qualified mechanic to follow these instructions. I am not aware if this will void your warranty so you should check that before proceeding. I refuse to be held responsible for any damage done to your car, if you dont feel confident, simple dont do it. What I am sure of is that should you choose to drive the car around in its current state with all of the severe pinging and and overboosting issues, you WILL significantly shorten the life of the motor through detonation damage or the engine running too lean as a result of unmetered air entering the induction system.
The engine suffers from more than one fault that needs to be rectified. Most notably, the extremely poor quality of clamps used on the boost piping. These clamps are so sub-standard that if you went to Bunnings or Masters and bought their worst clamp intended for household plumbing, it would still be better than the ones used on our engines, and that is not an exaggeration. From the factory these clamps are loose and their quality prevents a proper air tight seal. The factory clamps have also been known to fail completely after one tightening attempt. The new clamps also have a "liner" which provides a smooth even clamping surface which prevents damage to the material is gripping onto.
Use ONLY these clamps! They are called BREEZE LINER CLAMPS.
1 x Stock code: 9420
2 x Stock code: 9448H
2 x Stock code: 9444H
Here in Australia we can only get them in boxes of 10, so Im not sure what is available to you US customers.
NORMA Group - Breeze Products
All of these instructions need to be fully applied ALL at once for the fix to work. There is no point filling up on 91 Octane and putting two clamps on your car and saying it doest work. It will NOT work under those circumstances guaranteed. There are boost leaks at every induction pipe clamping surface on the engine, so sealing two will only make the others worse and your net result will be zero performance improvement. The clamps have been selected specifically for their ability to remain in their tightened state without the risk of them undoing, or in worst case, failing completely. Another brand or style of clamps will not necessarily hold so do not even try to substitute. I have tested the above very extensively and put a lot of time and research into selecting something appropriate for our application. They are also the same size and band width as the factory clamps so they will definitely fit. So here goes...
Preparation: Your car should be low on fuel and then refilled with 91 Octane fuel of any brand. NOT 93. This step may be redundant with the latest software update from Subaru (version 082), but this is yet to be confirmed.
1) Remove negative battery terminal and proceed. These 5 clamps need to be replaced with the specified clamps and tightened to a firm fit, and once the engine has warmed to operation temperature re-tightened. The clamps should not be overtightened or it will cause the rubber boots or insulators to "wrinkle" and cause leaks.
* Turbo intake
* Intercooler inlet
* Intercooler outlet
* Throttle body
* Bypass valve
Caution- Work carefully around the intercooler, it is quite fragile and the heat dissipating fins are quite easily damaged. This will rob you of power if the damage is excessive.
Hint - You will need to remove the intercooler completely when replacing the clamps on the small hose that connects to the throttle body. It may be stuck fast from the rubbers aging so dont go crazy with the wiggling or you will most certainly damage it. When the intercooler is off, to prevent any foreign objects entering the induction system, I suggest you stretch some new powderless latex gloves over the inlet and outlet. When re-installing the intercooler use a very small smear of vaseline or light paraffin oil as lubricant on the inside of the rubber boots or "insulators" to help guide the piping onto it. It should slide on very easily then. Also make sure that the rectangle "hump" on the bottom of the small pipe is pointing directly down when reinstalling the pipe. You can partially see the hump in the picture below labeled "Tridon clamp damage" the lubricant applied to the pipe will also alow you to rotate the pipe when its in position.
2) Tighten all three clamps after the airflow meter and before the turbo. There are three, do not skip any. These clamps are of a different manufacturer that the other five and they will hold if tightened. These clamps should be firm-tight. Also before tightening ensure that the induction piping is located correctly. i.e the rubber boots have a small keyway in them and they must be pushed up into this keyway and then the clamps tightened. ALL THREE!
3) Reset ECU using the following procedure.
*Replace negative battery terminal.
* Turn the ignition key so the indicator lights show and the dial sweep occurs. DO NOT START THE CAR. leave the key in this position.
* Wait at least 10 seconds, preferably 20 seconds for the ECU to complete its throttle learning procedure. There will be a number of clicks and whirls from the engine, this is normal.
* After 20 seconds start the car with all accessories off and allow engine to idle for one minute.
* ECU reset is complete. When driving, the car will feel funny and a little bit sluggish after the reset, this is normal, as the ECU is learning its new fuel trims wastegate settings and transmission behaviors. After half a tank of fuel, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at your "new" car. After the reset you will also need to perform the drivers power window calibration and set your clocks/date again. This is covered in your Subaru owners manual.
4) Double check your work and replace engine covers/bottom bash plate and clips, check clamp tightness, check tightness again when engine is at operating temperature.
Left: Replacement clamp Right: Subaru clamp
Note shape and material difference.
NB: See attachments for positions of clamps that need to be changed or tightened