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Old 10-02-2011, 11:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil Change#2 and 14MM Drain Plug is Junk

Just finished installing subaru (Idemitsu) 0w20 oil at 7161 miles for OC#2. This replaces the Mobil 1 0w20 we ran for 5100 miles. The mobil 1 oil came out VERY dirty (see pics). Main gripe is, when removing the drain plug with 14mm 6-point box wrench, the nut rounded off (see pics). I had to put foil over the nut head and hammer a 14mm impact socket to remove it. Many here have complained about the DP bolt, and I had little problem with it at OC#1, but this time it wouldnt budge. I will request a new free DP bolt from our local Subaru dealer. This thing must be made from very mild steel or ??? I will be looking for a more robust replacement and hope Subaru recognises it needs a better one also. I never in over 40 years of professional maintenance had an issue with a drain plug bolt. I was a NIASE MASTER in the 70's and early eighties.
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Oil Change#2 and 14MM Drain Plug is Junk-fb14mmdrainplug_100211.jpg   Oil Change#2 and 14MM Drain Plug is Junk-mobil10w20_5kmi-subfb_100211.jpg  
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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surface-drive sockets ftw.
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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At the risk of starting an argument. ...It is physically impossible to round off a nut using a 6 point socket, unless it slips off.

Using an 18 inch breaker bar and keeping it perpendicular to the plug it can't not work. Don't get me wrong..I have had a socket come off a nut/bolt before. But it was my fault.
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What wrench brand are you using?


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Old 10-02-2011, 01:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
At the risk of starting an argument. ...It is physically impossible to round off a nut using a 6 point socket, unless it slips off.

Using an 18 inch breaker bar and keeping it perpendicular to the plug it can't not work. Don't get me wrong..I have had a socket come off a nut/bolt before. But it was my fault.
This is what I get for making fun of the other guys who rounded off their DP plugs earlier this year It appears to be an undersized 14MM head - if it was 13 MM we could use a 1/2" for a tighter fit. Yes, the wrench did cam off the head as the metal gave way. The wrench was aligned and square with the head. No Problems with my Ford which has a nice built in, recessed kep reusable rubber gasket. Also, no problems with ANY other car and my Subaru EJ253 17mm was fine. Believe me Al, this thing is made out of "pot metal" and the head is too small for the thread size. And I specifically undertourqued it when I did OC#1, this is not the factory install. Also the plug does not thread in all the way by hand - it acts like a tapered pipe thread - but it isnt. I guess all I'm saying is cars need a nice robust drain plug. If I'm having trouble with it, others will too. And have!
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What wrench brand are you using?


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I hear you. Use the best quality wrench especially for problem bolts and nuts. I bought a 14mm box 6pt wrench just for this DP given the past thread about guys rounding off the heads. Unfortunately the wrench some off shore Stanley combination. Its not an S-K or Craftsman or Snap-on. I was going to use my snap-on flare nut wrench but I dont have metric (I dont even think they make metric flare nut wrenches).
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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(I dont even think they make metric flare nut wrenches).
I have some from craftsman, just used them on a Jeep rack/pinion
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Many automotive drain plugs don't have a standard hex head on them like a bolt. They have a tapered hex IE: it is slightly smaller at the top of the head and as the wrench slides on they get bigger at the base. These heads provide a situation that can start the process of the wrench stripping the head, as the wrench 6pt or 12pt will engage at the base of the hex and the wrench will want to roll off the the plug. Not saying this is what happened, but I have seen many upon many plugs with a tapered hex.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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WOW.
I use a wrench not a socket and mine looks brand new after countless changes.

Ditch the socket and use a wrench.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, I bet you have the nice 17mm which works fine. The FB engine's 14mm drain plug looks like a one-time install drum bung plug. At best.
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Old 10-02-2011, 02:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I was going to use my snap-on flare nut wrench .
Problem with that though is that it being open on one of the flats it would have deformed.
And if that nut head is papered a bit ..I can see it happening. Yea it looks like it needs a bigger head. Probably a auto parts place will have one. Glad you got it off anyway.
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Replace that with a nice Fumoto valve.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Replace that with a nice Fumoto valve.
I wonder why my valve didn't work out...seems like most people like them a lot
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Time to start using an oil extractor through the dip tube instead of crawling under and using a wrench.
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I wonder why my valve didn't work out...seems like most people like them a lot
I like mine a lot, but I need to replace the crush washer they supplied next oil change. It weeps just enough to make the oil pan wet. Not enough to register on the dipstick though.

What problem did you have with yours?
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