('14+) changing engine oil - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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changing engine oil

New member here so please excuse me if this topic has been discussed previously. I checked back a few pages without seeing it.

In December, I purchased my first Subaru, a Certified Pre-Owned 2016 Forester 2.5i Touring with 5,000 miles on it. i'm now coming up on 10,000 miles and am preparing to service it for the first time. I'm wondering if an oil evacuation pump can be used on the 2.5L engine. I'm doubting it based upon what I see in the oil filler tube but would like to know for sure.

For what it's worth coming from a life-long domestic car guy, I'm really impressed with my Subaru and especially the service I received from their customer assistance center. I called because I received error messages when attempting to download updates for my navigation system and the very professional person with whom I spoke found he had the same problem so he said he would report the problem to the computer nerds and call me back with an update. I honestly did not expect to hear from him but two days later I did and he stayed on the line until I successfully had the update downloading. I told him of my background - retired GM dealership parts & service director - and told him how much I was enjoying my vehicle. A week later, a Dyson cordless vacuum bearing the Subaru logo showed up on our doorstep. In the box was a card thanking me for allowing Subaru to improve my ownership experience.

I doubt that GM would have called me back much less given me a $300 vacuum for letting them know about a problem with their website.

Thanks in advance for your replies to my inquiry.

Ed

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 06:32 PM
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I've seen it ( suction pump) batted about in a few threads. SUmmary was that it was hard to gauge whether it was getting all the nasty bits in the sump.

THe http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...FUmoto%20drainvalve has come up repeatedly as the solution.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 07:06 PM
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@AveragEd I see this is your first forum post, so welcome to the forum from Oregon!

Perhaps this thread will answer your question: Oil Extractor.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information. I think that one of those Fumoto valves is in my future! My wife and I sold our home with a large garage complete with electric lift for servicing our vehicles and retired to a townhome so I will be using our son's home for my maintenance chores (especially since that's who "confiscated" my tools when we moved) and was looking for a way to avoid staining his pristine concrete driveway or garage floor.

This forum has a lot of good and almost required reading for someone like me who has only been around one brand of vehicles for so long. I'm looking forward to it.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 09:32 AM
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Welcome - glad to hear you still have a place to work on your car!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 09:56 AM
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IMO just undoing the drain plug is the easiest way to deal with this, but for some reason people like valves and pumps. I would personally steer clear from either, but YMMV.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 10:18 AM
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Welcome Ed! I agree with Stan regarding valves and pumps. When you pull the drain plug you get the maximum flow rate which I think would help clear out any oil pan sediment/sludge.

Last edited by Kevin; 05-07-2017 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Unnecessary use of Quote for a contiguous reply
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stan_t View Post
IMO just undoing the drain plug is the easiest way to deal with this, but for some reason people like valves and pumps. I would personally steer clear from either, but YMMV.
This ^^^^^^^^^^.

To drain the oil, you don't need to get under the vehicle. You do need to reach under the car and you need to slide a drain pan under the car. Build some low ramps (~3" high - build them out of 1x6 lumber) to raise the front end of the car just a bit. Reach under, unscrew the drain plug (or open the Fumoto valve) and you're good to go (or good to drain ;-).

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 11:01 AM
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I use the drain plug, and don't need ramps, 'tho they would make the job easier. New crush washers are recommended every oil change (unless you have the Fumoto).
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 11:14 AM
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G'day & Welcome AveragEd.

I too use Fumoto valves on both my vehicles and am very happy with them.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I need to get under my Forester to see what things look like. If clearance at the skid plate opening is tight enough that I will have hot oil running down my arm and/or dripping inside the skid plate, the Fumoto valve would be a good idea. However some of the worrisome cautions about ground clearance with the Fumoto have me wondering if their SX valve might be better but more joints can mean more potential for leaks.

With regard to grounding the vehicle, I do not "off-road" it. The closest I come to that is the last 200 yards of "road" leading to a hunting cabin I go to sometimes. But if I drive with two tires on the center hump, even my wife's FWD compact sedan only touches lightly. Given that, am I worrying about nothing?

I lean toward using the drain plug IF the condition mentioned in my first paragraph doesn't exist.

Ed
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 05:44 AM
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Wow. Don't overthink this. The oil change on a 2014+ Forester couldn't get any easier.

Yeah, you have to get under, but not far. Plenty of ground clearance. Do get a 6-point socket to prevent rounding off the rather soft drain plug. There is a nice cutout in the plastic "skid plate" just the right size to get at the plug. I don't have any problems with oil going where I don't want it. Many like the Fumoto valve, but it's just not worth the few dollars it costs for me to install one. Draining is easy.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AveragEd View Post
I guess I need to get under my Forester to see what things look like. If clearance at the skid plate opening is tight enough that I will have hot oil running down my arm and/or dripping inside the skid plate, the Fumoto valve would be a good idea...
On this first change, be warned that the 0-20 oil will shoot out really quick. A big catch pan and a pile of back-up rags won't be regretted.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the warnings! I think I will stick with the factory plug - they've served me well for my 70 years (well, most of them).

Ed
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 06:01 PM
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I added a Fumoto valve to my 2015 Forester at the first DIY oil change. Went through the dealer for the first two oil changes, then decided that $85 for an oil change at the stealer was a bit excessive and the oil filters they use are sourced from FRAM, but painted blue with Subaru marking on them for the 2.5I motor. Go to Walmart, get a jug of 0-20 Mobil One "Green top" full synthetic, and go to Oreilly's for your Wix Brand filter part number 57055. The Wix filters are not cheap made and have the 27psi bypass valve the 2.5i engine requires. About $25 bucks for the Mobil One jug of oil and a tad over $5 bucks for the Wix filter. I never get dirty, hot, oil on my hands anymore with the Fumoto valve and 15" of 3/8" silicone hose run into my catch pan. Oil change is the easiest I have ever done on my Subie.
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