('09-'13) 2012 Torque on Drain Plug - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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2012 Torque on Drain Plug

I just did the 2nd oil change on our 2012 Forester FB25 engine at 7200 miles. The first oil change was done by the dealer. The drain plug took all my strength to break free. Glad I purchased a new 17mm 6 point socket. It was like the mechanic did a pull up on the wrench to tighten the plug. I have 2 questions. What is the function of the crush ring gasket instead of a copper one? Is there a torque value for the drain plug? I used Mobile One 0-20W & Subaru oil filter. Thanks.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cyberroger View Post
... Is there a torque value for the drain plug?....
The 2012 shop manual specifies the torque on the FB25 drain plus at 30.8 ft-lb

'12 Forester FB25 4EAT
'13 Crosstrek FB20 CVT
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 10:41 PM
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so we are back to 17mm drain plugs after 1 year of crappy 14mm ones that round off?

will a 17mm thread right in? The 17mm on the 2013 outback is way nicer than the 14mm on my 2011.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 11:44 AM
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On my 08 I use 22 ft lbs (less than recommended). I have used that value on every drain plug on about 12+ vehicles for the last 25 years (multiple makes). Removal torque will be at least 60+ ft lbs. Tightening torque is not a real good indicator of loosening torque. 20 ft lbs tightening might translate into 50 ft lbs removal and 30 ft lbs might translate into 75 ft lbs removal torque...or more.

Be careful what you wish for.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 01:14 PM
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My 2012 came with the 17mm plug and was definately tight from the factory. I've never measured how much torque applied but rather go by "feel" lol...never had an issue.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by devildogsubie View Post
My 2012 came with the 17mm plug and was definately tight from the factory. I've never measured how much torque applied but rather go by "feel" lol...never had an issue.
Yea..there is nothing wrong with that. I have had a click type torque wrench for 35 years. I have been wrenching for 50 years, but find consistency in using a torque wrench good.

Be careful what you wish for.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 03:05 PM
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I agree consistency is good I just don't see any reason for fuss over it.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by devildogsubie View Post
I agree consistency is good I just don't see any reason for fuss over it.
I agree about not fussing. I just grab the torque wrench and set it. That probably takes an extra 30 seconds.

...04 XT.... 98S
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 10:42 AM
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Touche...Bought a torque wrench yesterday lol.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cyberroger View Post
I just did the 2nd oil change on our 2012 Forester FB25 engine at 7200 miles. The first oil change was done by the dealer. The drain plug took all my strength to break free. Glad I purchased a new 17mm 6 point socket. It was like the mechanic did a pull up on the wrench to tighten the plug. I have 2 questions. What is the function of the crush ring gasket instead of a copper one? Is there a torque value for the drain plug? I used Mobile One 0-20W & Subaru oil filter. Thanks.
Question: What way did you put the crush washer on? I was told by the Subaru dealership that the flat side goes against the drain plug and the angled side goes against the drain pan.

Based on the number of times dealerships have sold me the wrong parts (I feel I speak the English language clearly), I have little faith in anything they do.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:02 PM
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I was told by the Subaru dealership that the flat side goes against the drain plug and the angled side goes against the drain pan.
I put the flat side on the pan side. Truthfully it doesn't matter

Be careful what you wish for.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 04:04 PM
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I put the flat side on the pan side. Truthfully it doesn't matter
+1

It really, really, really doesn't matter. Either way the drain plug will conform and seal.

I just throw it on there, and the only leak I've had is when I used a thinner Napa washer (much thinner than OEM, possibly could have been defective/bent but not noticeable when I bought it). Much more important things to worry about
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 08:09 PM
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So, does anyone know if the 2012 17mm drain plug will thread into the 2011 14mm drain pan?

Got :Banane14: so got Foz :bananapowerslide:
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 12:22 PM
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Bump.....No love for my question??

Got :Banane14: so got Foz :bananapowerslide:
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 06:01 PM
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Two oil changes ago, I ruined the 14mm drain plug when my socket slipped. Had to drive my '88 Blazer to the dealership for another one, but they only had the 14mm ones in stock.

So for this oil change, when I stopped in for the oil filter and washer I asked for a new drain plug just in case, but they still only had the 14mm ones. (Or else they're just trying to unload them before telling people the 17mm ones are in stock, I dunno.) As cheap as they are, I might just buy a new one each time and use a pipe wrench to get the old one out...
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  Subaru Forester Owners Forum > Technical Forums and Vehicle Assistance > Engine and Exhaust > FB25 - 2.5L Non-Turbo (2011+)

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