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Old 07-18-2006, 12:28 PM   #46 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sea-scooby
What would be the best way to remove light scratches? I had some trail fun, tree branches scrapped down the sides and put real light scratches. The paint wasn't scrapped, but there are faint lines running down the car.
The entire story is here:
Rally fun has a downside...

Living in the country I get see this a lot on pickup trucks. It depends on how deep they are. I usually just use a light compound on my orbital to remove them. I have had to wet sand a couple of cases but I DO NOT RECCOMEND this unless you REALLY know what you are doing.

I would try a polish first before moving to a compound. Look at your local auto store for something like Megs DACP (Dual Action Cleaner Polish) or Swirl Remover. I have not tried these by hand though. Just remember to strip off the old wax first before you polish.

Thats tough to fix without a buffer.
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:47 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsCustomDetailing
Living in the country I get see this a lot on pickup trucks. It depends on how deep they are. I usually just use a light compound on my orbital to remove them. I have had to wet sand a couple of cases but I DO NOT RECCOMEND this unless you REALLY know what you are doing.

I would try a polish first before moving to a compound. Look at your local auto store for something like Megs DACP (Dual Action Cleaner Polish) or Swirl Remover. I have not tried these by hand though. Just remember to strip off the old wax first before you polish.

Thats tough to fix without a buffer.
I have a buffer, so I'll give it a try this weekend. They are very light scratches so I'm sure they will come out. I just didn't want to use something that was too abrasive and do more damage.

Thanks for the info!!
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:12 PM   #48 (permalink)
 
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Hmmm, I followed the link to AutoGeek; bought a small container of the Klasse sealant on their recommendation.

What's the best way to clean recent Subaru paint that's previously been waxed (Turtle Wax), to get it really clean before using a sealant? I'll try the '88 GL before the '03 Forester.

All the consumer products locally promise to add a layer of wax while washing, which I think is the wrong approach. Is there a car wash product that won't leave a layer of wax, I might find at an ordinary Kragen's or Pep Boys?

I'll try the FK 119 for the 1969 Dodge van. It needs that, or sandblasting (grin).
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Old 07-18-2006, 04:57 PM   #49 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hank
Hmmm, I followed the link to AutoGeek; bought a small container of the Klasse sealant on their recommendation.

What's the best way to clean recent Subaru paint that's previously been waxed (Turtle Wax), to get it really clean before using a sealant? I'll try the '88 GL before the '03 Forester.

All the consumer products locally promise to add a layer of wax while washing, which I think is the wrong approach. Is there a car wash product that won't leave a layer of wax, I might find at an ordinary Kragen's or Pep Boys?

I'll try the FK 119 for the 1969 Dodge van. It needs that, or sandblasting (grin).
Nice choice with the Klasse. I really like to use their AIO (all in one) prior to the sealant. Its a chemical polish so it will remove a light layer of wax and leave a nice layer of acrylic for the sealant to bond to. Everyone always refers to them as the Klasse twins, you always use the one with the other.

Try using Megs Gold class or the NXT car wash, I don't think it contains any waxes. I also use their soap in the pink bottle. I think its called Super Suds or Gentle Suds or something. My label fell off after being wet for so long.

Let me know how you make out with the van. that 1119 is something else when it comes to stripping. If that doesn't work go with FK's Barnacle and algae remover I think its #583. Its scary as hell to work with but it cuts mold and oxidation right off! It works really good on fiberglass too. Sometimes its a pain to get those black streaks off. Only let it sit for a Minute though. Seriously don't try that at home kids.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:00 PM   #50 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sea-scooby
I have a buffer, so I'll give it a try this weekend. They are very light scratches so I'm sure they will come out. I just didn't want to use something that was too abrasive and do more damage.

Thanks for the info!!
Always start with the least aggressive product and move up. Don't be afraid to do multiple passes either. I speak from experience on this one, trust me.
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:12 AM   #51 (permalink)
 
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What would be the best way to get dog smell from the upholstry? The owner before me must have had a dog, too, and must have been a bit more smelly than my lab.
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Old 07-27-2006, 12:12 PM   #52 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaius
What would be the best way to get dog smell from the upholstry? The owner before me must have had a dog, too, and must have been a bit more smelly than my lab.
There are a couple of ways to get rid of that dog smell, it just depends on how strong it is. A good vacuum and shampooing is always a good start. If the odors persist you could always try a odor eliminator. These chemicals actually kill the bacteria and break down the cause of the smell (think Frebreeze). I have used some from Megs and Fk with good results. If that doesn't work look for a detailer that offers Ozone treatment. It may be a little pricy but It will definitely do the trick. It works kind of like an industrial size Ionic breeze. It will nuke any smell that you may have in the car. The only problem is that it usually takes a couple of hours to do so look for an all day appointment or an overnight stay for your car.
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:34 PM   #53 (permalink)
 
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Default Buffer recommendation

Hi,

I've been following this thread and am very interested in it. My Forester is coming up 3 months old (dealer assured me that it was waxed just prior to delivery) and I'd like to get a good coat of wax on it, mostly for protection but also for looks.

A couple of questions if you don't mind...

I have a bottle of Autoglym super resin polish (clear coat safe) left over from the last car - is this ok to use?

I am prepared to buy a buffer - what do I look for - I assume I need to spend more than just a few dollars at Supercheap Auto. When using a buffer, I take it that you need to cut in around the windows and trim by hand?

Thanks heaps

Jonny

Ps The car is white (is there clear coat on this?), in Australia and probably spends 75% 0f its time garaged or under cover.
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Old 08-04-2006, 08:38 AM   #54 (permalink)
 
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Default I woke up this morning thinking about this thread...

Mine is an interior detailing question. I just picked up a low mile car... but it's from Arizona and the leather could use some love. It's not cracked or anything but it certainly isn't soft either. It feels hard and is "creaky" if you know what I mean.

What would you use to bring back the softness and condition the leather? I was going to do a search but remembered this thread!

Thanks!
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
 
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Ok, next level -- the white 03 Forester cleaned up ok with the two Klasse products, except -- I'm working now first just on the hood and the bit of white paint around the grille -- there are some tiny black specks (maybe road tar?), some of which I can feel with a thumbnail or a rub with a paper towel -- and some of those pop off eventually, if I put some pressure on it. Others don't seem to stick up noticeably and don't come off.

I can't believe I even notice this, but white paint is pretty unforgiving.

A second round with the Klasse cleaner didn't touch the specks that I couldn't remove with friction using paper or thumbnail. I'm not going to get obsessive about this (or even worry) -- these are so small that from a couple feet away they're not even visible, and heck, my old eyes have enough floaters that I have to look three times to tell the visual specks from the ones on the paint. But, hey, I care more now than I likely ever will again (grin) so it's the time to ask.

Before I pull out the half pound of Silly Putty and try to lift this stuff off -- what might it be and what's best practice?

I do have an untouched small bottle of the proper touch up paint, bought because I do have one actual tiny chip through the white paint in this area (black showing through, hope that's the primer layer). So if these do leave holes behind I can get a microscope and needle and put a smidgen of paint into the spots (about a hundredth of a drop or less would do each one).
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Old 08-07-2006, 06:01 PM   #56 (permalink)
 
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Default Recommendations

I've got a black '06 2.5i Impreza and a silver '04 Forester XT. My lovely wife bought me a Porter Cable 7424 after watching me spend 13 hours applying Menzerna's 4-step process to the Imperza by hand.

Haven't busted out the PC yet because I need help choosing pads. I've bought most of my stuff from the great folks at Classic Motoring but am having trouble deciding on pad sizes and material (coarseness). Need to get the spider webbing out of the black Impreza and would like to claybar the XT before giving it the Menzerna treatment. Any recommendations on Claybar and PC4724 pads?

Thanks,
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:21 PM   #57 (permalink)
 
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I'm going to tack one on to the end of this list:

any suggestions on getting dog hair out of the carpet in the back of my Forester?

I'm picking up the cargo mat today and want to get the carpet as 'dog hair free' as I can before putting it down...thanks!

Jesse
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:10 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Question Tire Dressing?

Haven't heard from Tom in a while But thought I would post a question, opinion & coment.....as this is a pretty informative thread.

What would you recommend (mention as many as you like) as the best, reasonably priced & longest lasting tire dressing?

I've used & tried dozens over the years personally (foams, spray bottles, you name it ) & recently gave Meguiar's 'High Gloss' Hot Shine Tire Coating (with an adjustable sprayer built into the can).

I bought a can of this (425g/Net 15oz) on sale when I was on vacation in the States at Autozone & it is by far the VERY best product I have ever used on my tires! In addition, you can adjust the sprayer depending on the type of sidewall you have to avoid overspray & waste on your rims, paint & floor. Lasts for a long time too.

If memory serves, it was on sale for $5.49 which I thought was pretty reasonable & will definately stock up on this stuff & I highly recommend it to others.

Anyone else?
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Old 01-13-2007, 11:03 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I was wondering what tom or anyone on here would use on wheels that have caked on grime and dust. Looks like wheels havent been cleaned is some time. I plan on cleaning and painting them. I was thinking P21S or griots garage wheel cleaner or possibly simple green...
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Old 01-13-2007, 07:35 PM   #60 (permalink)
 
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I was wondering what tom or anyone on here would use on wheels that have caked on grime and dust. Looks like wheels havent been cleaned is some time. I plan on cleaning and painting them. I was thinking P21S or griots garage wheel cleaner or possibly simple green...
I use a wheel cleaner (I think its Meguiars), but do not leave it on long, and do not use it on hot wheels or wheels that have been in the sun. Sometimes it takes multiple applications, and always takes rubbing to get the wheel totally clean. Simple Green works, but I don't think it is nearly as effective as wheel cleaners.
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