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Old 07-07-2006, 05:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyser soze
Virgil, do you have a nice clean garage at your new place? We might need to have a Detail Day here soon. I need to work on getting the swirls out of my JBP. When the sun hits it I start to cry.....
Oh yes! I've got a garage, a buffer, and many goodies to do a detail. We may have to have a detail day sooner than later if you're planning on going to the suby meet at Firebird...
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1030110

Still gotta finger out what to do about my wierd paint situation, hmmmmmmm.
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:21 PM   #32 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by hank
Anyone have specific advice for the 2003 Forester (it's white) -- bought used, want to clean off whatever's on it and start fresh, I think with the acrylic sealants; concerned about longterm rust protection, not mirror shine. It's used for camping, gets a lot of dust and dirt.

I'd also appreciate advice on how to approach the older vehicles we have -- all have layers of grime in the grooves and moss growing in them. The oldest is a 1969 Dodge.

It's wonderful how nothing ever rusts in California, but it makes us lazy (wry grin). But my old Tercel did finally rust around the windshield and I realize I need to do better.

Advice on how to start from scratch on older, dirtier vehicles welcome.

The advice to use/caution against 50% alcohol is the sort of thing that confuses me -- and I expect varies depending on manufacturer, year, kind of paint, and prior treatment of the vehicle.

(diluting 70% isopropyl by half? diluting 95% ethanol by half -- drugstore ethanol has emetics added, too ....)




Sorry it took so long for a reply. The weather finally broke here in PA and I've been swamped.

I think this is exactly what you need:

http://www.fk1usa.com/products-professional.htm

The DK-1b IS probably what your looking for to decontaminate some rough vehicles. It is a bit pricey though.

Check out the 1119 also. It would be Perfect for the white forester. Here is a link to the smaller bottle. I don't think your going to need a gallon.:

http://www.fk1usa.com/products-consumer.htm

The 2180 Ultra seal is probably the best sealant Ive used yet. Its really low maintenance. I strongly suggest it for vehicles that take a beating.

Good luck and let me know how you make out!!!
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
 
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And to settle the concerns about alcohol here is a good post over at autopia:

http://autopia.org/forum/showthread....ht=alcohol+mix

Hope this helps to clarify things.

If you want a Professional product FK1's 1119 Strips off old wax and buildup too.:

http://www.fk1usa.com/products-consumer.htm
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:34 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Brand New 06 FXT...

What would you recommned for first detail/wax job?

I've seen a lot of people happy with Meguire's 3 step process but with a new vehicle with no swirl marks or scratches would you need to do step 1?

I'm not set on what I want to buy so I'm very open to suggestions.
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:46 PM   #35 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by PNW-06FXT
Brand New 06 FXT...

What would you recommned for first detail/wax job?

I've seen a lot of people happy with Meguire's 3 step process but with a new vehicle with no swirl marks or scratches would you need to do step 1?

I'm not set on what I want to buy so I'm very open to suggestions.

I swear I have no affiliation with FK1. If I did I would be rich by now!

I ALWAYS recommend the 2180 Ultra seal to all of my customers with new cars. It provides a great base coat. Follow that up with some Fk1 pink wax and you will be amazed!!!!

For a really neat trick try using the FK 425 after a wash and before you dry. Lightly mist it on the wet car a panel at a time, them lightly mist your drying towel and wipe dry. It leaves a spotless finish every time. It also offers some protection against drying induced swirls and tends to rejuvenate the pink wax.

Here is a link to the consumer products. I think the sample pack is a good choice. It has the 2180, pink wax and 425 in sample sizes. This way if you hate it your only out $20. Its the first set of products at the top.

http://www.fk1usa.com/products-consumer.htm
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:47 PM   #36 (permalink)
 
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Well, since you offered...

I just have one question: What should I use to remove the sticky residue where I removed the pinstriping on my new 06 X?

OK, one more: How often should I look at washing/waxing a car that lives outside here in Seattle? The thing is, I have an aftermarket rack that would have to be removed(PITA) in order to go through an automatic wash...

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleForester
Well, since you offered...

I just have one question: What should I use to remove the sticky residue where I removed the pinstriping on my new 06 X?

OK, one more: How often should I look at washing/waxing a car that lives outside here in Seattle? The thing is, I have an aftermarket rack that would have to be removed(PITA) in order to go through an automatic wash...

Thanks!

Well since I'm on a FK roll today the 1119 should take any residue off.

With the Pink wax I only wax every 3 mo. I wash my car at least 2 times a week but that's just me.

Automatic car washes= pure evil I hate those things!! But they do keep me in business with all those swirl marks!

Try to hand wash only with a good quality washmitt if you can. Even I use the carwash in the dead of winter though.
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Old 07-10-2006, 02:05 PM   #38 (permalink)
 
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Thanks so much!
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Old 07-10-2006, 02:06 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Any particular cleaner you would recommend for taking tar residue off alloy wheels?
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:01 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsCustomDetailing
And to settle the concerns about alcohol here is a good post over at autopia:
[/url]
That settles nothing from what I can see.

The issue with alcohol, even as a dilute solution extends beyond issues on the clearcote but also to drying of plastic and rubber trim.

Use at your own risk.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:09 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW-06FXT
Brand New 06 FXT...

What would you recommned for first detail/wax job?

I've seen a lot of people happy with Meguire's 3 step process but with a new vehicle with no swirl marks or scratches would you need to do step 1?

I'm not set on what I want to buy so I'm very open to suggestions.
Be sure that you have no swirls etc. Dealers often use swirl filliers to mask such issues on delivery and the product only falls out after 2-3 washes.

If you are doing the job yourself and you are sure you have no swirls, scratches then I'd suggest a paint cleaner and sealer. Polylack Nano Cleaner and Sealer are excellent. Follow 3 days later with a good wax such as P21S. Always use a ph balanced quality car shampoo.

You will also want clean microfibre cloths and applicator pads.

Plenty of great product out ther incl Autoglym, Megs etc.

The wash process has been discussed.

My new XT looked great when I got it but after a few washes, it was clearly treated with swirl filling products due to the nature of the swirls and hav since talked to the dealer and confirmed.

Subaru paint (clearcote) is soft so care is needed.

I had to use a RO and fine polish to get back to a good clean surface and then apply sealers.

The vehicle is much better now but as the car is black, difficult to avoid some fine marks showing up.

Good luck
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:48 PM   #42 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiad7
Any particular cleaner you would recommend for taking tar residue off alloy wheels?

Try a product called Goo Gone. You should be able to find it in any grocery store. I have removed some serious tar from vehicles using this. Wash the rim with regular wheel cleaner, dry and then soak a spot on a old rag with GG and dab it on the tar. Let it sit for about a minute and wipe off. be sure to use soapy water to remove any residue from the GG.

You could also try Kerosene. Its a little more effective but you have to be careful. Use gloves too. Its hard to get that smell off of your hands
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:56 PM   #43 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candy
That settles nothing from what I can see.

The issue with alcohol, even as a dilute solution extends beyond issues on the clearcote but also to drying of plastic and rubber trim.

Use at your own risk.

The alcohol suggestion was not intended for everyone it was just what I have used a few times without any problems. You definitely do not want to get this stuff on trim or rubber seals. I did forget to mention that.

Just my suggestion take it for what its worth. I agree use at your own risk. If you want to find out more just do a search over at autopia and decide for yourself.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:57 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsCustomDetailing
Try a product called Goo Gone. You should be able to find it in any grocery store. I have removed some serious tar from vehicles using this. Wash the rim with regular wheel cleaner, dry and then soak a spot on a old rag with GG and dab it on the tar. Let it sit for about a minute and wipe off. be sure to use soapy water to remove any residue from the GG.

You could also try Kerosene. Its a little more effective but you have to be careful. Use gloves too. Its hard to get that smell off of your hands
Excellent, I'm already a big fan of Goo Gone and always keep a bottle of the stuff around. I'll give it a try!
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Old 07-17-2006, 03:55 PM   #45 (permalink)
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What would be the best way to remove light scratches? I had some trail fun, tree branches scrapped down the sides and put real light scratches. The paint wasn't scrapped, but there are faint lines running down the car.
The entire story is here:
Rally fun has a downside...
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