Ask A pro detailer anything!!!! - Page 2

TomsCustomDetailing · 06-26-2006, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbleee

I have problems when i use Liquid NXT wax on my car. They say to use a nickel sized drop per panel but when i do that it just seems like the wax is going on all clear, its not a flat white color like some of the previous waxes i used (mequires gold class, Zymol) Im just not sure if im using enough but it seems like it works.
Also how long should i wait till the wax is rdy to be taken off? Since its hot now above the 90s it seems like the wax dries within minutes and that i just wipe it off . ??

NXT doesn't have the haze like natural waxes. It is a synthetic polymer. It only leaves a slight clear haze. Be careful not to use too much. A little goes a long way. If you see NXT turn white it is way too much!!!!

I usually let NXT sit for about an hour before removing it. The Polymers in the product need tome to bond and cross link to each other. Try not to get it wet for about 24 hours also. It is a water soluble product.

TomsCustomDetailing · 06-26-2006, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roo

Candy keeps people honest around here...

Sometimes it comes off differently.

Welcome. BTW, when are you taking a road trip out west?? When you do, bring your detailing stuff, since we don't have a competent detailer in the town where we live.

The only "detailer" we have looks like a meth user who was working his hardest to keep from having to deal with us, and accept our business.

Its always good to have more than one opinion. There are many ways do detail a car. I sure as heck don't know everything!

No plans for out west yet. Try looking on autopia for someone close to you. People do it all the time. Just post where you are from and more than likely there is someone to help. They are a great bunch of guys too. I have learned so much from them.

jbleee · 06-26-2006, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsCustomDetailing

NXT doesn't have the haze like natural waxes. It is a synthetic polymer. It only leaves a slight clear haze. Be careful not to use too much. A little goes a long way. If you see NXT turn white it is way too much!!!!

I usually let NXT sit for about an hour before removing it. The Polymers in the product need tome to bond and cross link to each other. Try not to get it wet for about 24 hours also. It is a water soluble product.

That helps thanks!
But let it sit for an hour in what temperatures? Or does it really matter?

I Want Candy! · 06-26-2006, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsCustomDetailing

Do I sense hostility?

I honestly didn't mean to step on any toes here. Merely trying to help!

What do you mean by inclusion? Subsurface contaminate, Run or orange peel in the finish?

What ???

No hostility at all. A difference of opinion, no more. If it were hostile I would have used

or

Don't be so sensitive.

Inclusions as in grit/dust at the time of painting.

I Want Candy! · 06-26-2006, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roo

Candy keeps people honest around here

Dishonest people on subaruforester.org - wash your mouth out Roo

Speaking of washing, what is the best method for light cleans ?

Twin bucket or prespray with dilute balanced car shampoo and rinse ?

TomsCustomDetailing · 06-27-2006, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Candy

Dishonest people on subaruforester.org - wash your mouth out Roo

Speaking of washing, what is the best method for light cleans ?

Twin bucket or prespray with dilute balanced car shampoo and rinse ?

I hear a lot of good stuff about some of the new waterless washes. I haven't tried them yet though. I still do it the old fashioned way. Try doing a search on autopia for the waterless washes. Some people love them some hate them. Its always best to get a couple of opinions especially on a black car.

I personally don't use the two bucket method on my own car. Its white so it really doesn't matter. I can see the need on a black car though.

I Want Candy! · 06-27-2006, 05:44 PM

Thanks for the info.

Creating swirls and scratches (from grit and dirt in the wash mit) on any colour car is something I thought would be best to avoid.

May not be as obvious on lighter colours but they are still there. You are right about black cars though. They show it all

Mind you, they show well too

I've progressed to a mix of pre rinse, twin bucket, MF washmit and high quality MF waffle weave drying cloth.

The twin bucket doesn't take much more effort really and it is always surprising to see the amount of grit that ends up in the rinse bucket even on a relatively clean car.

The latter has made a big difference.

TomsCustomDetailing · 06-27-2006, 05:58 PM

have you tried the buckets with the removable grate at the bottom yet? I love mine. its a cheap one but it works.

something like this:

http://www.autogeek.net/autogeek-wash-system.html

That is a crazy price for a bucket.

I Want Candy! · 06-27-2006, 06:12 PM

I just made one up for the buckets I had.

Got the idea from the pasta cooker I have.

Not sure how much it does but it looks funky

Edit - I just looked at your link, ouch. $70

Might be an option for pro's I guess that do lots of cars and want to look pro.

VSB XT · 07-04-2006, 09:46 AM

Ok, I removed the excess wax and polish off of my car w/a degreaser dish soap to remove any wax and polish build up. After, waxed it again, but w/ less wax this time and no polish w/ carnuba since it melts and seperates in hot weather supposedly. It seems it must be my clear coat that is fading because all of the weird discoloration is still there, even after removing the residual and applying a fresh coat. What can you do to restore the clear coat? I mean is it time to respray the car, is it doomed? Is there a sealant or something out there that can fix fade and I mean "really" fix fade?

TomsCustomDetailing · 07-04-2006, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VSB XT

Ok, I removed the excess wax and polish off of my car w/a degreaser dish soap to remove any wax and polish build up. After, waxed it again, but w/ less wax this time and no polish w/ carnuba since it melts and seperates in hot weather supposedly. It seems it must be my clear coat that is fading because all of the weird discoloration is still there, even after removing the residual and applying a fresh coat. What can you do to restore the clear coat? I mean is it time to respray the car, is it doomed? Is there a sealant or something out there that can fix fade and I mean "really" fix fade?

I'm going to guess here but it might be the dish soap causing some of the problem. Some heavy degreasers dry out the clear coat and cause oxidation. Dish soap also does not have the lubrication like a regular car wash soap. Never use a dish soap to wash a car. Once in a while it is fine but not consistently. A 50/50 mix of water and alcohol will strip all the previous wax off just fine. Do a search on autopia.org for other wax removal techniques. You may have missed a spot while taking off the polish and now its bonded to the clear. I have done this and it causes a hazy spot. Its a PITA to get off too.

If you could post some pics that would help with the diagnosis. I don't think you are looking at a respray yet, maybe just some compounding and polishing.
As long as the clear isn't flaking you should be fine.

Have you used any other harsh chemicals on the paint lately, or maybe scrubbed too hard while washing with dish soap or other car wash soap?

Have you frequented any local car washes lately. Sometimes while switching from wheel cleaner or engine degreaser to wash soap it takes a few seconds and it is possible to spray the heavy cleaners on the paint causing some hazing. There are so many possibilities.

I think if worst comes to absolute worst take it to a professional detailer and have them look at it. Like I said I don't think its anything a good compound and buff couldn't fix.

I think it will come out.

Where are you located by the way?

I Want Candy! · 07-04-2006, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VSB XT

Ok, I removed the excess wax and polish off of my car w/a degreaser dish soap to remove any wax and polish build up. After, waxed it again, but w/ less wax this time and no polish w/ carnuba since it melts and seperates in hot weather supposedly. It seems it must be my clear coat that is fading because all of the weird discoloration is still there, even after removing the residual and applying a fresh coat. What can you do to restore the clear coat? I mean is it time to respray the car, is it doomed? Is there a sealant or something out there that can fix fade and I mean "really" fix fade?

Is it possible to post images of the areas affected.

Are you sure it isn't watermarking.

DW soap diluted (few drops in a buxket) and in warm water won't affect the clearcote unless you let it sit for hours without rinsing and even then unlikely.

Some as Tom suggests use alcohol/water mix but I've seen nasty effects from this incl cracking of components in trim and fading.

VSB XT · 07-04-2006, 07:35 PM

Yeah the problem was before I used dish soap as I've always used the Meguires Gold Class wash but decided a good degreaser was what to use to remove the wax just in case it was a result of build up. No harsh chemicals have been used on it either, unless quick detailer has anything harsh in it, and I'm one to use that every two days(seriously). So compounding? What does that entail all together, like a wetsand or something? Oh BTW I'm in Glendale aka Phoenix Az. Thanks in advance.

keyser soze · 07-05-2006, 09:24 PM

Virgil, do you have a nice clean garage at your new place? We might need to have a Detail Day here soon. I need to work on getting the swirls out of my JBP. When the sun hits it I start to cry.....

hank · 07-07-2006, 12:14 PM

Anyone have specific advice for the 2003 Forester (it's white) -- bought used, want to clean off whatever's on it and start fresh, I think with the acrylic sealants; concerned about longterm rust protection, not mirror shine. It's used for camping, gets a lot of dust and dirt.

I'd also appreciate advice on how to approach the older vehicles we have -- all have layers of grime in the grooves and moss growing in them. The oldest is a 1969 Dodge.

It's wonderful how nothing ever rusts in California, but it makes us lazy (wry grin). But my old Tercel did finally rust around the windshield and I realize I need to do better.

Advice on how to start from scratch on older, dirtier vehicles welcome.

The advice to use/caution against 50% alcohol is the sort of thing that confuses me -- and I expect varies depending on manufacturer, year, kind of paint, and prior treatment of the vehicle.

(diluting 70% isopropyl by half? diluting 95% ethanol by half -- drugstore ethanol has emetics added, too ....)

06-27-2006, 05:44 PM	#22 (permalink)
I Want Candy! Westie Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 3,742 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Thanks for the info. Creating swirls and scratches (from grit and dirt in the wash mit) on any colour car is something I thought would be best to avoid. May not be as obvious on lighter colours but they are still there. You are right about black cars though. They show it all Mind you, they show well too I've progressed to a mix of pre rinse, twin bucket, MF washmit and high quality MF waffle weave drying cloth. The twin bucket doesn't take much more effort really and it is always surprising to see the amount of grit that ends up in the rinse bucket even on a relatively clean car. The latter has made a big difference. __________________ GTI Goodness - launch control rocks (but missing the Fozz) OzFozz.com

06-27-2006, 05:58 PM	#23 (permalink)
TomsCustomDetailing Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Oxford, PA Posts: 22 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	have you tried the buckets with the removable grate at the bottom yet? I love mine. its a cheap one but it works. something like this: http://www.autogeek.net/autogeek-wash-system.html That is a crazy price for a bucket. __________________ -Certified Master Detailer

06-27-2006, 06:12 PM	#24 (permalink)
I Want Candy! Westie Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 3,742 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 1 / 100%	I just made one up for the buckets I had. Got the idea from the pasta cooker I have. Not sure how much it does but it looks funky Edit - I just looked at your link, ouch. $70 Might be an option for pro's I guess that do lots of cars and want to look pro. __________________ GTI Goodness - launch control rocks (but missing the Fozz) OzFozz.com

07-05-2006, 09:24 PM	#29 (permalink)
keyser soze Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Could be anywhere.... Posts: 1,140 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Virgil, do you have a nice clean garage at your new place? We might need to have a Detail Day here soon. I need to work on getting the swirls out of my JBP. When the sun hits it I start to cry..... __________________ 07 UGM WRX Wagon

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

07-04-2006, 09:46 AM	#25 (permalink)
VSB XT Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 485 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Ok, I removed the excess wax and polish off of my car w/a degreaser dish soap to remove any wax and polish build up. After, waxed it again, but w/ less wax this time and no polish w/ carnuba since it melts and seperates in hot weather supposedly. It seems it must be my clear coat that is fading because all of the weird discoloration is still there, even after removing the residual and applying a fresh coat. What can you do to restore the clear coat? I mean is it time to respray the car, is it doomed? Is there a sealant or something out there that can fix fade and I mean "really" fix fade?

07-04-2006, 07:35 PM	#28 (permalink)
VSB XT Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 485 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Yeah the problem was before I used dish soap as I've always used the Meguires Gold Class wash but decided a good degreaser was what to use to remove the wax just in case it was a result of build up. No harsh chemicals have been used on it either, unless quick detailer has anything harsh in it, and I'm one to use that every two days(seriously). So compounding? What does that entail all together, like a wetsand or something? Oh BTW I'm in Glendale aka Phoenix Az. Thanks in advance.

07-07-2006, 12:14 PM	#30 (permalink)
hank Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Berkeley CA Posts: 50 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Anyone have specific advice for the 2003 Forester (it's white) -- bought used, want to clean off whatever's on it and start fresh, I think with the acrylic sealants; concerned about longterm rust protection, not mirror shine. It's used for camping, gets a lot of dust and dirt. I'd also appreciate advice on how to approach the older vehicles we have -- all have layers of grime in the grooves and moss growing in them. The oldest is a 1969 Dodge. It's wonderful how nothing ever rusts in California, but it makes us lazy (wry grin). But my old Tercel did finally rust around the windshield and I realize I need to do better. Advice on how to start from scratch on older, dirtier vehicles welcome. The advice to use/caution against 50% alcohol is the sort of thing that confuses me -- and I expect varies depending on manufacturer, year, kind of paint, and prior treatment of the vehicle. (diluting 70% isopropyl by half? diluting 95% ethanol by half -- drugstore ethanol has emetics added, too ....)