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Question about Hidden Hitch install

('14-'18) 
6K views 29 replies 12 participants last post by  Ashesandrust1 
#1 ·
Looking for feedback from folks who have purchased a Hidden Hitch or Drawtite 2" trailer hitch and did the installation on their own.

The HH installation guide indicates the bolts need to be torqued to 50 foot pounds. The Curt installation guide specifies 110 foot pounds of torque which is more than double. I know they're different companies but wondering if anyone knows why there is such a huge difference in torque specs.
 
#2 ·
I don't know why the difference in torque specs between the Curt and the HH. I purchased and installed the Draw-Tite Model 75876 hitch and the torque specs for the 7/16" Grade 5 bolts/nuts was also 50 ft-lbs.

Maybe Curt is using a different size bolt?

Cheers

Charlie
 
#3 ·
Thanks Corky52 for your reply. Looking at the curt installation guide, I noticed there isn't a conical washer between the nut and the hitch. I'll just go with the HH recommended specs for the torque and check it periodically (much easier now since my Foz is new and clean).

Interesting observation, I pulled the Hidden Hitch sticker off and there was a Draw-Tite sticker right under it!
 
#6 ·
No part number, just the logo sticker on top of another. :)
@Kevinmai712... Yep, I was aware that they are owned by the same parent company, just didn't expect them to slap multiple labels on the hitch. Thanks for posting a pic of the bolts on your Curt hitch. Did you notice any paint chipping when torquing it down? It was a concern which led me to go with the HH instead, along with their warranty requirement of using a stabilizing strap for bike racks.

Bonus question: what bike racks are you guys using and have you noticed any clearance issues? I'm still undecided on a Kuat or 1up.
 
#13 ·
You should write Curt and let them know their stabilizing strap requirement is unneeded. They might sell more hitches without an unnecessary restriction.

When I load multiple bikes on my hitch racks, I always load the heaviest ones to the inside, and never skip a spot. Often those sprallmart kids bikes weight more than a quality bike shop adult bike. There is a lot of unwanted leverage as you get weight further back.
 
#10 ·
I have the Curt 2" on my '15 XT Touring. I self-installed. The higher tourque could be due to the the thicker metal blocks that go into the frame and stabilize the hitch better, in addition to the nuts you see above. I used my torque wrench and went to the specified torque. I don't notice any paint chips when I installed.

I will take a look today and try to update. I have plenty of room to see it, as I have the Invidia N1 exhaust, so I'll try to take a pic too.
 
#14 ·
If your bike rack doesn't have a threaded hitch pin (mine does) or if you don't use a "hitch stabilizer" (which I do when I use my canoe loader), you might just need the strap. The bottom line is that many "accessories" that get slid into a receiver hitch have some play in them. With a rack with a load of bikes, any play might just cause a handle bar to whack the back of your Subaru when you hit a bump.
 
#20 ·
It should be a straightforward install without the need to drill any holes in the frame. I had my car up on ramps and followed most of the steps in this video by etrailer: http://youtu.be/zstl3zaF5gc

I did the same install as the video but noticed some rattling from the heat shield so I went back in and cut off a bit more of the heat shield to sandwich it between the hitch and the frame. To me, it is a cleaner look (not that anyone would crawl under and look at it) and leaves less of a gap for dirt to get between the frame and heat shield.
 
#18 · (Edited)
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