New to the forum and new to Subarus. Recently got a 2015 Premium. Looking at a trailer hitch set up and I would like to get your opinions. I would like a 2" receiver that is very low profile (like the OEM one) that I can install myself.
I love the looks of the OEM but do not like 1.25" receiver, the bumper replacement (does that impact crash rating or safety at all?), and the complicated install.
Torklift Central makes a hidden hitch with a 2" receiver that doesn't require drilling to install. It also retains the factory rear bumper support. The only part you will see exposed is the receiver.
I am looking at the Torklift Ecohitch. It seems to tuck under the bumper. Any idea how it installs? I've seen their YouTube video that has the installer cut a notch out in the bumper and install from underneath https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Bzp-T9VAyA.
But I've seen pictures on this forum of user's Foresters with no notch cut out. What's the deal?
Yes, it tucks under the bumper cover. Yes there is a tiny notch cut out of the bumper. There is a single bolt clearance required for the muffler heat shield. You can driil the heat shield or cut it with snips.
You do have to remove the tail lights and bumper cover but the instructions are fairly complete and straightforward. Only moderate tools and mechanical expertise are required.
I have a Torklift Ecohitch w/2" receiver, of the original MY2014 design. I chose it in-part because no cutting or drilling of any steel parts was required. This was very important to me because I live in the rust belt.
I had some initial installation problems but Torklift made exceptional efforts to help me and, in the end made everything good beyond my expectations. I believe they have since redesigned the Ecohitch to make installation easier.
What remains constant is that you will have to drill (or cut a tiny V in) the aluminum heat shield and also cut a notch in the plastic bumper cover. The bumper cover cutout corresponds almost exactly to a rectangle already embossed on the inside of the bumper cover. By the way, this minimal cutout is smaller that what is required for the OEM hitch and is absolutely not visible unless you crawl under the bumper to look for it.
The heat shield is aluminum so corrosion is not an issue. I used a pair of tin snips to make about a 1/2 x 5/8" V to allow one mounting bolt to clear.
The bumper cover cuts easily with a razor knife. Nothing else on the car is cut, drilled or modified and additional risk of rust should be non-existent.
What I like best about my Ecohitch is the way it tucks up under the bumper and is barely visible except for the receiver. I regularly see other hitches that are butt ugly the way they hang well below the bumper and fully expose the cross beam.
The factory hitch is an overly complicated and poorly engineered piece. The reason it replaces the original bumper is so that it does NOT impact crashes. Nothing will impact a "rating", which is something determined by MODEL, not modification.
Though in theory, some of the aftermarket hitches can be installed "from below", this will require cutting, which breaks the anti-corrosion protection on the metal where it is cut. A correct installation will ALWAYS be complicated, in that the proper way ALWAYS involves removing the bumper for access to the inside of the rails where the hitch is to be installed. The difference with an aftermarket hitch, is that you will be reinstalling the bumper rather than replacing it.
Though in theory, some of the aftermarket hitches can be installed "from below", this will require cutting, which breaks the anti-corrosion protection on the metal where it is cut. A correct installation will ALWAYS be complicated, in that the proper way ALWAYS involves removing the bumper for access to the inside of the rails where the hitch is to be installed. The difference with an aftermarket hitch, is that you will be reinstalling the bumper rather than replacing it.
From what I've read and seen, taking the bumper off just allows you to avoid drilling to widen any frame holes, is that right? I can't imagine the minuscule drilling would impact anything other than possible rust if the drilled hole is not treated.
It is impossible to re-treat it properly without stripping the entire vehicle of everything, and dipping in into a vat to be re-galvanized.
Further, if you can access the inside of the rail properly, you can insert a reinforcement as well. In ours, I used pieces of 2"x2"x3/8" angled steel, drilled to match the mounting holes in the hitch. Inserted that into the rails from the end with the bolts.
You may wanna read up on that stuff again...
It's juuuust a little bit more than "just paint".
With the etcher/cleaner/paint... stuff is better then powdercoating.
I laughed at your comment of "...and really won't do much to protect the metal." Thanks for that
Thanks for the recommendations. Has anyone put on a Torklift Ecohitch? Am I correct in assuming the only difference between an underneath install and a bumper off install is the drilling of holes in the frame. That is: take the bumper off, slide in the bolts from above. Install underneath and need to drill out a hole and do the bolt leader trick?
I have installed both Torklift, OEM (Outback) and Curt hitches.
I recommend the bumper removable method. BTW, for OEM bumper removal is the ONLY method. To install without cutting the metal is very easy and it's debatable about which is quicker. Using a hole saw in the frame of the unibody is not advisable IMO because I believe it weakens the supports back there in case you are rear-ended. People that make these things will tell you that my worries are unfounded because any weakening would be irrelevant since the hitch is installed and providing support. For me? I removed the bumper it took me less time to remove the bumper than it did to drill those fricken holes anyway. I have drilled holes twice and bumper removal twice. Drilling always took longer.
The video on the Torklift site is accurate. It doesn't matter if you remove the bumper or not you still have to cut the bumper. It has to do with the "barless" design. Again this isn't a big deal. I ended up testing the bumper a couple times and cutting it twice to make sure it was a snug fit. They do prove a template, but I prefer to do my own measurements, personally. Cutting the bumper piece was the hardest part for me because I wanted a seamless install. Honestly the area is so far tucked under any minor mistake you make will be unseen unless you are laying on your back looking at it and even then the hitch covers the opening a lot.
Torklift shipped and installed by you is less than $400 with the wiring kit. They have both 1.25" and 2".
OEM is easily $400 for just the hitch, though you can get specials or negotiate this into your deal. OEM is only 1.25."
I got the 2" because I already have 2" accessories and the market has more selection in that size.
"The factory hitch is an overly complicated and poorly engineered piece. The reason it replaces the original bumper is so that it does NOT impact crashes. Nothing will impact a "rating", which is something determined by MODEL, not modification."
Reasons to go with the OEM Hitch
I suspect the OEM hitch adds significantly less net weight to the vehicle than the aftermarket hitches precisely because it replaces the bumper beam.
For those in the rust belt the majority of the structure is tucked up under the bumper instead of hanging below the body next to the muffler(s).
I can't vouch for the veracity of this, but was told that Subaru verifies the integrity of the Vehicle through crash testing with the OEM hitch installed. The aftermarket hitch design looks more likely to transfer energy in towards the passenger compartment.
Yes the OEM hitch is only 1.25" and a 2" hitch does offers more rigidity but a higher capacity 2" hitch will never ever increase the tow rating or towing ability of the vehicle.
"The factory hitch is an overly complicated and poorly engineered piece. The reason it replaces the original bumper is so that it does NOT impact crashes. Nothing will impact a "rating", which is something determined by MODEL, not modification."
Reasons to go with the OEM Hitch
You can go through your dealer, and pay more
I suspect the OEM hitch adds significantly less net weight to the vehicle than the aftermarket hitches precisely because it replaces the bumper beam.
32lbs verses, 45ish (For Torklift, others like Curt are less). Why oh why would less weight be a good thing? Say fuel eco and I'm gonna slap you in the back of the head! :|
For those in the rust belt the majority of the structure is tucked up under the bumper instead of hanging below the body next to the muffler(s).
Actually no, the after market and the OEM are both installed exactly the same way
I can't vouch for the veracity of this, but was told that Subaru verifies the integrity of the Vehicle through crash testing with the OEM hitch installed. The aftermarket hitch design looks more likely to transfer energy in towards the passenger compartment.
Since both products are basically the same, this point doesn't matter.
Yes the OEM hitch is only 1.25" and a 2" hitch does offers more rigidity but a higher capacity 2" hitch will never ever increase the tow rating or towing ability of the vehicle.
I got outdoor metal fence framing that's been treated with it and it looks the same as the day I put it on there. Also the drops on the concrete that still won't come up... But that regular paint that got sprayed on the concrete is gone... so... ya... I disagree. This coated metal frame is rust free. 100%
OEM mounts only to the bumper mounts. Aftermarket designs that mount to the frame rails which are designed to crumple and absorb energy in a crash seem to compromise that ability. But I'm not an engineer nor do I know for sure if the photo is a 2014 OEM hitch. I have the 2011 OEM hitch.
View attachment 218274
OEM mounts only to the bumper mounts. Aftermarket designs that mount to the frame rails which are designed to crumple and absorb energy in a crash seem to compromise that ability. But I'm not an engineer nor do I know for sure if the photo is a 2014 OEM hitch. I have the 2011 OEM hitch.
Not entirely true……the OEM hitch bracket(s) also bolt to the lower frame rail w/ 2 bolts each as well as the rear bumper mount flange (end of rail).
pic>
For the other person asking; when you install an oem hitch the original bumper bar is removed. Therefore subtract that weight off the newly installed hitch = less weight. It is not a huge amount but it is still removed weight.
Yeah, a 2" would be a bit more stable for racking attachments. But the key to both sizes is adding an electrical channel clamp. This is what I do with my oem hitch for towing a trailer, mucho quieter!
Pic>
In the drop down select "Accessory Installation Guide" and fill out the rest. If your year isn't there you can sometimes pick an earlier year and if the body style is the same it should work for you too. At least it can give you an idea on what will be involved for the install. I find it can even be helpful for aftermarket stuff too.
No drilling into frame for a Draw-Tite 75876 hitch installation on 2015 Forester?
I just bought a Draw-Tite trailer hitch with a class III rating and 2" receiver part #75876 to install on a 2015 Forester. etrailer.com has a video showing how to install the hitch on a 2015 ForesterThe video and the text accompanying the video doesn't show, nor mention, any drilling into the Forester's frame is needed so that the bolts and "blocks" can fit inside the frame. If true it seems to me that the Forester's frame strength is not compromised, nor is it more likely to rust.
The only drilling they show is done to the heat shield, so that it fits over the bolts that secure the hitch to the frame.
Is it correct that a Draw-Tite 75876 hitch installation requires no drilling into a 2015 Forester's frame?
edit, oops I first mixed up Hidden Hitch in the title when I meant to write Draw-Tite. Corrected.
Correct, no frame drilling required since you can use the larger fourth hole as the access point. The Drawtite and Hidden Hitch are the same, they have the same parent company.
Thanks!!! I'm still trying to decide between OEM hitch and the Torklift ecohitch. Seems like not a lot of hitch mounted bike racks fit the OEM hitch although I saw in one post where the owner drilled a new hole further back in the shank to give it more stability. I suppose that's an option I'll have to explore. Thanks again for the photo I'll definitely do the same after I get a hitch installed.
We plan on using the 1up hitch on our 16 XT...hope it works with the OEM hitch.
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