('01-'02) My "Melange": phmancus' 2001 S - Page 26

phmancus · 12-06-2012, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duderotomy

^try and pick up some flare nut wrenches for tackling those brake lines.
It will likely save you some headaches...

Harbor Freight is my best friend. Already picked up a full set for $6.99

phmancus · 12-11-2012, 09:31 AM

Well, I'm kinda F***ed...

I got under the car this morning to have another go at the TiC 5MT linkage update. Got the trans crossmember off, so far so good.

Then, after two hours of pounding, PBing, freeze spraying, and anything else I could think of at that cursed roll pin connecter, I gave up for the day.

It doesn't end there.

I got the trans crossmember back on, and started to torque the bolts down. Everything went smooth except for the last bolt. the front passenger-side bolt, 17mm, was being torqued down..... when SNAP, all of a sudden it just started to wobble around loosely. "Crap" I thought to myself.

Turns out, the weld nut on the inside of the body snapped off. Called the local Subaru shop, and the tech told me I'm basically screwed. They're going to have to remove a bunch of the interior and drill a hole from above to get at it. No estimate for how long it will take. Fantastic...

Anybody know if it's safe to limp the car to the shop, or should I give AAA a call?

Duderotomy · 12-11-2012, 10:05 AM

That does indeed suck. I had a similar issue when I was removing the rear bumper beam from the track car. The welded nuts all broke loose. Luckily I wasn't planning on keeping the bumper beam so out came the saw-zall and I cut things up to get a wrench onto the now un-welded nuts.

Loscaldazar · 12-11-2012, 04:02 PM

Might seem late, but try 85FT-lbs next time. I stopped there because 105 seemed way too high.

Also, use a long spike/nail (as in railway spike/nail). Thick and long is what you need, with a point. Stick it in the middle of roll pin, use a 5lb sledge, and with a few good smacks you will be able to get it started, then use a 1/4 punch to finish it the rest of the way.

Then, when getting the shift fork back onto the shifter linkage (the new bushings are thicker, and will make it much harder to get back on) try this:

"Now for the second painful part. In Order to get the control fork back on the linkage, it requires a lot of force. The new bushings are much thicker, and will create a much tighter fit. This requires two people....

Person on the bottom will position the control fork straight behind the linkage, so that it is just touching. You can tell, that no matter what you do, it just won't fit. Get a second person in the car, and have them attempt to shift into first. Hold the linkage the fork steady, so that they will slide together. It will take several tries, as the linkage will turn down when force is applied. After getting the fork over the linkage, you need to get the holes lined up. Work with that person telling them to shift either into first or second, while holding the linkage with a crowbar (first will push the linkage further on, second further back) until the holes are all lined up, and you can push the hex headed bolt through the hole. It takes a 6MM Alan wrench. Fit a wrench on the nut on the top, and torque to 11 ft-lbs."

Hope this helps!

phmancus · 12-14-2012, 11:33 AM

Well, ended my headache with a $30 fix (saw drill bit & new hardware) and some drilling fun.

After the Subaru tech told me I was screwed and it would be a tedious chore for them, I decided to do some research and try to tackle the job myself. Got some advice from chogunna91 on here that it also recently happened to, and I found a thread on rs25.com:

tranny cross member bolts - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com

The guy on rs25.com had to cut through the floorboard exactly where I did to access the weld nut on top of the frame rail, so I just eyeballed it based on the picture instead of using a stethoscope, and got lucky. Had a buddy hold the top nut in place with a long wrench while I ratcheted from underneath to get the old bolt and nut out, and put the new ones in. I still have everything in the passenger footwell taken apart so I can drive it over to a welder and have him lock the new nut in place for me.

It's a ridiculously stupid engineering flaw to have 3 tiny spot welts holding a nut that's meant to take 103 ft/lbs of torque...

I'm just glad I can drive my car again and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg like I was quoted. Stupid transmission crossmember is stupid.

Pictures!

the culprit:

the solution:

the hole:

02foresterL · 12-15-2012, 06:30 AM

That doesn't look like fun, at all. Glad you found an easier way to solve the problem though.

phmancus · 12-15-2012, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02foresterL

That doesn't look like fun, at all. Glad you found an easier way to solve the problem though.

Dude I was terrified to drill into my car, haha.

MudRunner · 12-15-2012, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phmancus

Dude I was terrified to drill into my car, haha.

After a couple times of doing it, it gets a little easier. lol However I am still apprehensive about cutting the giant fender hole for the snorkel.

Duderotomy · 12-15-2012, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MudRunner

However I am still apprehensive about cutting the giant fender hole for the snorkel.

So go grab a fender from a wrecking yard and cut it up.

phmancus · 12-18-2012, 08:31 AM

Sunday was a fun day! Met up with a bunch of local Raleigh Nasioc guys, and we had a good 70 mile back roads cruise. I had the only Forester (naturally) and definitely represented! I was 5th in the row of 14 cars, and we were pushin' it. Everyone and their turbos were impressed at my little lightweight N/A beast, hahah.

Matt, · 12-18-2012, 09:44 AM

That's awesome! Looks like a blast.

phmancus · 12-19-2012, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt,

That's awesome! Looks like a blast.

It was indeed! We're going to make it a bi-monthly event, and after more people start to join the fold we'll begin to plan small trips to track days and other events.

MudRunner · 12-19-2012, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duderotomy

So go grab a fender from a wrecking yard and cut it up.

Genius right there. Why didn't I think of that....

OttoWolf · 12-19-2012, 03:53 PM

looks awesome and i had the same problem with the roll pin on my shifter bushing as well i had to use a air hammer to get the pin out and then to get the old bushing off

phmancus · 12-20-2012, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OttoWolf

looks awesome and i had the same problem with the roll pin on my shifter bushing as well i had to use a air hammer to get the pin out and then to get the old bushing off

Fantastic. Looks like that'll have to happen next time I can get it on a lift.

12-11-2012, 09:31 AM	#377 (permalink)
phmancus Forum Member Thread Starter Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1,590 Location: Raleigh, NC Car Year: 2001 Car Model: Forester S Transmission: 5MT Gallery: 2 Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Well, I'm kinda F*ed... I got under the car this morning to have another go at the TiC 5MT linkage update. Got the trans crossmember off, so far so good. Then, after two hours of pounding, PBing, freeze spraying, and anything else I could think of at that cursed roll pin connecter, I gave up for the day. It doesn't end there. I got the trans crossmember back on, and started to torque the bolts down. Everything went smooth except for the last bolt. the front passenger-side bolt, 17mm, was being torqued down..... when SNAP**, all of a sudden it just started to wobble around loosely. "Crap" I thought to myself. Turns out, the weld nut on the inside of the body snapped off. Called the local Subaru shop, and the tech told me I'm basically screwed. They're going to have to remove a bunch of the interior and drill a hole from above to get at it. No estimate for how long it will take. Fantastic... Anybody know if it's safe to limp the car to the shop, or should I give AAA a call? __________________ -Philip "Melange"- '01 Forester S 5MT

12-11-2012, 10:05 AM	#378 (permalink)
Duderotomy ɹoʇɐɹǝpoɯ ɹǝdns Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 16,577 Location: Tim Horton's Car Year: 2007 Car Model: Sports 2.5XT Limited Transmission: 5MT Gallery: 0 Feedback Score: 16 reviews	That does indeed suck. I had a similar issue when I was removing the rear bumper beam from the track car. The welded nuts all broke loose. Luckily I wasn't planning on keeping the bumper beam so out came the saw-zall and I cut things up to get a wrench onto the now un-welded nuts. __________________ 07 XT - VF43'd 02 S 03 Outback H6 98 S - H6/Ver.8 swap 90 Nissan Skyline GTS-t

12-11-2012, 04:02 PM	#379 (permalink)
Loscaldazar Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 2,656 Location: Plymouth, Minnesota Car Year: 03 Car Model: Forester Transmission: 5 MT Gallery: 0 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Might seem late, but try 85FT-lbs next time. I stopped there because 105 seemed way too high. Also, use a long spike/nail (as in railway spike/nail). Thick and long is what you need, with a point. Stick it in the middle of roll pin, use a 5lb sledge, and with a few good smacks you will be able to get it started, then use a 1/4 punch to finish it the rest of the way. Then, when getting the shift fork back onto the shifter linkage (the new bushings are thicker, and will make it much harder to get back on) try this: "Now for the second painful part. In Order to get the control fork back on the linkage, it requires a lot of force. The new bushings are much thicker, and will create a much tighter fit. This requires two people.... Person on the bottom will position the control fork straight behind the linkage, so that it is just touching. You can tell, that no matter what you do, it just won't fit. Get a second person in the car, and have them attempt to shift into first. Hold the linkage the fork steady, so that they will slide together. It will take several tries, as the linkage will turn down when force is applied. After getting the fork over the linkage, you need to get the holes lined up. Work with that person telling them to shift either into first or second, while holding the linkage with a crowbar (first will push the linkage further on, second further back) until the holes are all lined up, and you can push the hex headed bolt through the hole. It takes a 6MM Alan wrench. Fit a wrench on the nut on the top, and torque to 11 ft-lbs." Hope this helps! __________________ 2003 Forester 2.5XS Mod Journal

12-14-2012, 11:33 AM	#380 (permalink)
phmancus Forum Member Thread Starter Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1,590 Location: Raleigh, NC Car Year: 2001 Car Model: Forester S Transmission: 5MT Gallery: 2 Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Well, ended my headache with a $30 fix (saw drill bit & new hardware) and some drilling fun. After the Subaru tech told me I was screwed and it would be a tedious chore for them, I decided to do some research and try to tackle the job myself. Got some advice from chogunna91 on here that it also recently happened to, and I found a thread on rs25.com: tranny cross member bolts - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com The guy on rs25.com had to cut through the floorboard exactly where I did to access the weld nut on top of the frame rail, so I just eyeballed it based on the picture instead of using a stethoscope, and got lucky. Had a buddy hold the top nut in place with a long wrench while I ratcheted from underneath to get the old bolt and nut out, and put the new ones in. I still have everything in the passenger footwell taken apart so I can drive it over to a welder and have him lock the new nut in place for me. It's a ridiculously stupid engineering flaw to have 3 tiny spot welts holding a nut that's meant to take 103 ft/lbs of torque... I'm just glad I can drive my car again and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg like I was quoted. Stupid transmission crossmember is stupid. Pictures! the culprit: the solution: the hole: __________________ -Philip "Melange"- '01 Forester S 5MT

12-15-2012, 06:30 AM	#381 (permalink)
02foresterL Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,295 Location: Floral City, FL Car Year: 02 Car Model: SF-L Transmission: 4EAT Gallery: 12 Feedback Score: 7 reviews	That doesn't look like fun, at all. Glad you found an easier way to solve the problem though. __________________ My Member Journal

12-18-2012, 08:31 AM	#385 (permalink)
phmancus Forum Member Thread Starter Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1,590 Location: Raleigh, NC Car Year: 2001 Car Model: Forester S Transmission: 5MT Gallery: 2 Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Sunday was a fun day! Met up with a bunch of local Raleigh Nasioc guys, and we had a good 70 mile back roads cruise. I had the only Forester (naturally) and definitely represented! I was 5th in the row of 14 cars, and we were pushin' it. Everyone and their turbos were impressed at my little lightweight N/A beast, hahah. __________________ -Philip "Melange"- '01 Forester S 5MT

12-18-2012, 09:44 AM	#386 (permalink)
Matt, Forum Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 426 Location: Nebraska Car Year: 1998 Car Model: Forester S Transmission: 5MT Gallery: 0 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	That's awesome! Looks like a blast. __________________ 1998 Forester S, 5MT

12-19-2012, 03:53 PM	#389 (permalink)
OttoWolf Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 210 Location: Trenton, OH Car Year: 1998 Car Model: Forester S Transmission: Manual Gallery: 0 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	looks awesome and i had the same problem with the roll pin on my shifter bushing as well i had to use a air hammer to get the pin out and then to get the old bushing off

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