Thanks guys! :) I'm really excited to see everything tying together.
It's really not that difficult. If anything I feel like it's a -the more you know, the more you know you don't know- type deal!
I did a mock assembly and started welding in the cutout today
I also got a little incognito switch for the cutout. I had a few blank switch covers to the left of the steering wheel. A perfect spot for it IMO.
So I have these oil catch cans also.
For those unfamiliar, the job of an "Oil catch can" is to separate the oil vapors out of crankcase gasses. Back in the day we used to vent these gasses to the air. With modern emission standards we plumb these gasses back into the intake and burn them. Problem is, the oil vapors slime up things and lower your effective octane rating. Anyways...
I decided to go with a dual catch can set up.
As aforementioned, the job of these motha's is to separate the oil vapors from the air before it returns to the intake (Turbo inlet or PCV). Problem is, neither of these catch cans are baffled. I don't see them being very effective at all this way. So I will mod them to my hearts content.
You don't have to be an engineer or a master of fluid dynamics to figure out that the air is going to go right into that one line, then zip right back into the other line on the top of this can carrying most of that vapor with it. Amirite?
Here's the game plan
So the problem with that design is once liquid starts accumulating in the bottom there will be a bubbling / slurping effect. So I moved the filter media up higher, and held it there via rivets that were only partially riveted (So I left the stem) and I cut slits in my baffle to let air flow through. The catch cans can now fill up over half way, I predict this will be plenty.
I cut the baffle from sheet aluminum and used JB weld to adhere it to the roughed up and cleaned surfaces of the lids. I put them in a vice to center it with the catch can housing also.
My design is directional though. Air should go in the filtered side.
Yesterday I rebuilt the e-brakes with all new components, and swapped out the differential fluids. I am doing the transmission fluid also, but I'm putting some redline shockproof in there, and you just can't find that stuff locally :/
I did collaborate with my tuner and I got my base map onto my accessport. Mwahahahaha :D
I went ahead and swapped out my OEM MAP sensor for an OMNI 4bar MAP sensor :D
Out with the old and in with the new
So I put these modded subaru injectors in my car. These were flow tested and matched. You can see all they do is remove the plate at the injector that helps atomize or mist the fuel. This changes these from 550cc injectors to 850cc injectors. You can see the difference in length and tip design.
I am not a fan of "Fix it in a can" type stuff. I do like seafoam though. I read good things about engine break in additives, so I bought some lucas.
I also welded up this bracket for my catch cans.
Here's the start
I cold cranked the engine with plugs in and got a solid 50psi~55psi.
Oil catch cans all plumbed up
Happiest gasket ever, assembling the TMIC
I've noticed when we were cranking for oil pressure there was no fuel pump hum. I took the assembly out again. See what I forgot? lol!
Brotha-man was home for a few days before he starts the police academy, so he helped me out and was here for the first start up! :D
The car is up and running. I have put about 20 miles on it so far varying engine RPM and load with as much engine braking as possible. I am getting a MAP code but I think this is because my base map won't account for the Omni 4 bar sensor. I am using the aggressive break in procedure and this car is a BEAST! I love it! I will keep breaking it in, sort out the MAP sensor, and once I put a few hundred on her we will go get this baby tuned! :D
AFRs are looking good. 11.1 @ WOT, exhaust wrap cooking off, turbo is spooling up very nicely I love it. I could have gone with a turbo that would give me more power but this is plenty for my goals.