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Jimmy's DGM STi'd out 08 Sports XT

('06-'08) 
29K views 79 replies 23 participants last post by  M0nkeyb0y 
#1 · (Edited)
Jimmy's JDM Forester STi-inspired 08 Sports XT



Well I'm back! This time it's a 2008 Forester Sports XT with a bunch of JDM and STi goodness. I was offered the rare opportunity to buy it even though it really wasn't listed for sale. Many of the mods it has I was looking forward to doing on my late gold Forester. Of course I couldn't pass that opportunity up based on the extensive quality modifications it has! It really is my dream forester!

If you're on instagram please follow me! I post more regularly here. http://www.instagram.com/jshaw6000

How she looked when I bought her:






2016 Sponsors:

- 7D Customs
- Klutch Wheels
- Superior Metal Finishing (Fullerton, CA)
- Subtle-Solutions
- Mishimoto
- AQ Motorsports
- Crawford Performance
- NRG Innovations
- Whiteline
- Mixxed Auto Design
- AWDSome Lifestyles
- Brothers Mobile Detailing
- Auto Detail Supplies Outlet

The mod list you ask?

Well... It has:

ENGINE:
- COBB ACCESSPORT V3 SUB-003
- MANLEY FORGED PISTONS
- KING BEARINGS
- ARP HEAD STUDS
- STI VF43 TURBO PORTED + POLISHED
- GRIMMSPEED TMIC - THERMAL COATING & FOIL
- BEATRUSH APEXI INTAKE WITH CARBON FIBER AIRBOX
- BEATRUSH AIR INTAKE FUNNEL
- KOYO RADIATOR
- FORGE RECIRCULATING BYPASS VALVE
- CRAWFORD PERFORMANCE AIR OIL SEPARATOR
- WALBRO 255 FUEL PUMP
- GROUP N PITCH STOPPER
- GROUP N ENGINE MOUNTS
- SAMCO RADIATOR HOSES
- JDM STI V7 INTERCOOLER SPLITTER
- TECHNA FIT STAINLESS STEEL CLUTCH LINE
- COBB ACCESSPORT V3 SUB-003
- MISHIMOTO UPPER COOLANT RESERVOIR
- MISHIMOTO COOLANT OVERFLOW RESERVOIR (POLISHED)
- MISHIMOTO INTAKE & TMIC HOSES
- MISHIMOTO OIL CAP
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS HOOD SCOOP SPLITTER
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS ALTERNATOR COVER
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS RADIATOR SHROUD
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS INTAKE MANIFOLD NAMEPLATE
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS CHIMNEY DUCT
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS HOOD STRUTS
- SUBLTE-SOLUTIONS BOLT & WASHER (RED) HARDWARE
- ZEROSPORTS COOL RADIATOR SHROUD
- CUSCO TURBO HEAT SHIELD

EXHAUST:
- XFORCE VAREX (VMK6-300) ADJUSTABLE VALVE MUFFLER
- CUSTOM 3" CUT AND TIG WELDED 304 STAINLESS PIPING
- SEBRING TUNING RESONATOR
- INVIDIA 3" HI-FLOW CATTED DOWNPIPE
- 05 STI EXHAUST MANIFOLD CROSS PIPE PORT & POLISHED
- 09 STI EXHAUST MANIFOLD ELBOWS
- 05 WRX INVIDIA UPPIPE
- ZEROSPORTS TWO POINT MUFFLER GROUNDING
- KARTBOY EXHAUST HANGERS
- FUJITSUBO SF5 SUPER LEGALIS R CATBACK
- JDM STI SG9 DOWNPIPE

TRANSMISSION/DRIVELINE/STEERING:
- JDM STI V7 RA Close Ratio 6 Speed Tranny - NON-DCCD
- JDM STI V7 R180 AP SURETRAC REAR DIFF - 3.9 fd LSD
- JDM STI V7 DRIVESHAFT
- 05 STI HELICAL FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
- 04 STI STEERING RACK
- 04 STI STEERING - U JOINT
- WHITELINE STEERING RACK BUSHINGS
- TORQUE SOLUTIONS SHORT-THROW SHIFTER
- KARTBOY SHIFTER BUSHINGS
- TIC SHIFTER LINKAGE BUSHINGS
- TIC SHIFTER PIVOT BUSHINGS
- 04 STI CROSSMEMBERS Front/Rear
- 04 STI DIFF CARRIER W/KARTBOY BUSHINGS
- AVO TRANSMISSION MOUNT BUSHINGS
- GROUP N TRANNY MOUNT 6MT
- BEATRUSH DRIVE SHAFT COLLAR BUSHINGS
- IA PERFORMANCE KPH-MPH CONVERTER CABLE

SUSPENSION:
- FEAL 441 TARMAC COILOVERS with 7K/5K SWIFT SPRINGS
- WHITELINE QUICK-RELEASE REAR STRUT TOWER BAR
- WHITELINE 24MM FRONT SWAY BAR
- WHITELINE REAR 22MM ADJUSTABLE SWAY BAR
- WHITELINE ROLL CENTER KIT – TIE RODS, BALL JOINTS
- WHITELINE REAR SWAY BAR MOUNTS
- WHITELINE ADJUSTABLE REAR ENDLINKS
- CUSCO FRONT ENDLINKS
- CUSCO JDM SG9 REAR FRAME REINFORCEMENT BRACE
- SUBTLE SOLUTIONS FENDER BRACES
- JDM STI ALUMINUM CONTROL ARMS
- STI TRAILING ARMS W/ TRIPLE PILLOW BUSHINGS
- STI 05 ALUMINUM LATERAL LINKS
- STI LOWER ARM BAR
- TIC LATERAL LINK BUSHINGS
- TIC TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS REAR
- SUPER PRO LCA BUSHINGS
- PERRIN SUBFRAME LOCK OUT BOLTS
- JDM SG9 FSTI STRUTS F/R - REVALVED BY FEAL SUSPENSION
- JDM SG9 FSTI PINK SPRINGS

BRAKES:
- JDM STI V7 BREMBRO BRAKES SYSTEM FRONT/REAR
- DBA 4000 SLOTTED ROTORS FRONT/REAR
- TECHNA FIT STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
- HAWK CERAMIC F/R PADS
- MOTUL RBF 600 BRAKE FLUID

WHEELS/TIRES:
- VOLK CE28N TIME ATTACK EDITION 18x8 5x100 +44 White
- RAYS DURALUMINUM LUG NUTS
- BRIDGESTONE POTENZA RE760 SPORT 235/40/18
ALTERNATE (WINTER) SET
- KLUTCH SLC1 WHEELS 18x9.5 +35
- CONTINENTAL EXTREME CONTACT DWS06 TIRES 245/40/18
- NRG 800 SERIES NEOCHROME LUG NUTS
- FALKEN 612 245/45/18

EXTERIOR:
- JDM SG9 AERO SPATS - FRONT, REAR
- JDM 02-03 GDB STI HOOD SCOOP - painted OEM DGM
- JDM SG9 STI REAR SPORTY BUMPER
- JDM SG9 STI REAR SPORTY BUMPER BRACKETS
- JDM SG9 STI TRANNY UNDERTRAY
- JDM STI SG9 REAR UNDER DIFFUSER
- CUSCO DIFFUSER BRACKETS
- 06 STI UNDER AERO PANELS
- 05 STI REAR BADGE
- 05 STI FRONT BADGE
- 05 STI SIDE BADGES
- RALLY ARMOR MUD FLAPS
- 07 STI U-SUBFRAME
- JDM SG9 RAIN VISORS
- JDM GDB V8 STI ENGINE UNDERCOVER
- JDM FORESTER SG9 LIP
- SUBTLE-SOLUTIONS LICENSE PLATE DELETE
- 2008 FORESTER SPORTS STI FRONT LIP

INTERIOR:
-
- DAMD D-SHAPED CARBON STEERING WHEEL
- 2015 STi SHIFT KNOB
- SWEIDIT SUEDE WRAPPED A & B PILLARS
- SWEIDIT SUEDE WRAPPED CONSOLE & NAV POD
- WC LATHE WERKS BRUSHED REVERSE LOCKOUT RING
- 07 STI SHIFTER TRIM
- JDM UPPER DOUBLE DIN POD
- JDM SG9 STI INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
- JDM HAZARD BUTTON
- JDM CARD HOLDER TRAY
- JDM COIN HOLDERS (in place of seat heater buttons)
- JDM SG9 STI PEDALS
- JDM SG9 STI SHIFT BOOT
- JDM SG9 STI SIDE SILLS
- 07 STI FRONT SEATS
- 05 STI STEERING WHEEL/AIRBAG
- 05 STI E BRAKE HANDLE
- WRX ALUMINUM DEAD PEDAL
- LED MAP LIGHTS
- VIPER 5706V REMOTE START 2-WAY ALARM
- VALENTINE ONE RADAR DETECTOR
- BLACKVUE DR650GW-2CH DASHCAM
- SUTBLE SOLUTIONS AC KNOB OVERLAYS
- NRG INNOVATIONS SHORT HUB
- NRG INNOVATIONS GEN 3.0 QUICK RELEASE
- NRG INNOVATIONS CARBON STEERING WHEEL
- WC LATHE WERKS CUSTOM HYBRID SHIFT KNOB


AUDIO:
- ASUS NEXUS 7 (2013) TABLET
- PIONEER AVH-X5700BHS HU
- EXECUTION AUDIO EA1000.1 SUB AMP
- EXECUTION AUDIO EA60.4 SPEAKER AMP
- CT SOUNDS TROPO 12 SUBWOOFERS (x2)
- COMPLETEL CUSTOM AMP RACK, SUB BOXES AND FLOOR BY 7D CUSTOMS
- POLK AUDIO DB651 FRONT
- POLK AUDIO DB521 REAR
- KENWOOD DDX419
- JL AUDIO 8W6 SUBWOOFER
- ROCKFORD FOSGATE PRIME R600.5 COMBO AMP

- Mods I installed.
- Mods I removed.

How she looks now:








It needs some minor work. The clear coat is filled with swirls and even has stains from some bird poop that looked like it wasn't cleaned off for days (improved), the headlights need a restoration and re-sealing(done), theres a bit of low-speed suspension clunk going on(endlinks, added washers, lessened but fixed), the serpentine belt needs replacing (done) and the sway bar bushing sound like they need regreasing (done), but other than that it's in sold shape.

My plans:
My ultimate goal is to consistently compete in Time Attack events. However, that probably won't happen for a few years. Right now it is my daily to and from work and school.
I plan to keep autocrossing and attending shows with my car like I did with my last gold one.

Future Planned mods (in no particular order):
- Aftermarket oil cooler
- Projector headlight retrofit
- Some sort of gauge pod setup (haven't decided yet - not A-pillar or BNA style)
- Whiteline Anti-lift kit
- New Wheels 18x9-9.5 +35 to +40 (Enkei RPF1’s or NT03's, Advan RS, SSR Type F, Work D9R, Enkei Raijin, Rays Grams Lights, Volk TEXX or CEXX)
- Airlift Performance Suspension
- 1000cc or 1300cc injectors for E85
- E85 or FlexFuel tune
- 18-20g sized ball-bearing turbo
- BorgWarner efr 7163 twin scroll (way future)
- EWG
- Headers
- Turbo inlet
- TGV deletes
- Sound deadening
 
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#12 ·
Loved the last Foz, but this thing is better! Congrats on the new ride. Looking forward to what you have in store, and most importantly glad you are still alive! Subscribed!
Sweet mother of all that is good and holy in this world what a nice car!

She is damn near perfect just the way she is! But when you're done it will be from the way things sound!
Congratulations on your new baby!!
it is very beautiful and awesome!!
Very good parts and details!!
Enjoy it!!
Subscribed!!
Thanks guys!! :grin2:
 
#15 · (Edited)
First mods!!

Re-installed the Pioneer AVH-5700BHS head unit that I just got right before Christmas for my other Forester. Pretty straight forward.




Re-installed the Whiteline quick-release rear strut tower bar that I had and reused the top plastic covers that I had already trimmed. Trimmed the carpet every so slightly to fit it.

Also fixed a bad ground that was causing a whining noise that changed with RPM. It actually sounded kinda cool at first but then got old, fast. A friend thought I had a big turbo until I broke the news that it was actually the alternator he was hearing! Haha. All I did to fix it was use a wire brush to scrape off the corrosion and alcohol to remove the dust.





Next up, fix this freekin A/C. It's hasn't been blowing cold and as of last night the compressor wasn't turning on. I recharged it using a recharge bottle purchased from Auto Zone last night, compressor kicked in (although it makes a weird grinding, spinning ratchet type of noise) and it started to blow somewhat cold. I called it for the night. I then turned it on this morning and the compressor didn't come on again. Checked the pressure using the gauge on the recharge bottle and it was low, added some more r134a and the compressor kicked on again. I think there is a leak somewhere :/ I may take it to the shop for this issue.
 
#16 ·
Did you buy your old Forester from the insurance company to get all your goodies back?

You guys have a pointer on how to remove the radio cover without breaking tabs or scratching it?
I'm about to install a boost gauge and the electric connector is on the radio harness...
 
#17 ·
Yup! After the accident I left everything on and let the appraiser check out the car. Then after I got the numbers I decided it was a much better idea to keep the car and part it out.

As far as popping off the radio cover, after I took the screws off I used the tool 3rd from the right in this kit Astro Pneumatic 4524 Auto Fastener and Molding Removal Tool Set, 11-Piece - Air Tool Maintenance Kits - Amazon.com

That was probably one of the best tool purchases I made in the last year. Has definitely made removing interior components much easier without the fear of scratching or damaging anything.
 
#19 ·
Woohoo...congratulations again Jimmy. Can't wait to have both DGM ninja unicorns out on the track. And start saving...I need you to buy my turbo, headers and EWG when I get my new block and possibly rotated. I'll even help you install them:grin2:. Oh and please buy Arnold's JDM HID headlights as the wife will kill me if I do.
 
#24 ·
I'm in the same boat as you. Need to figure out if buying new sports headlights from Jackie@Annapolis is better or finding a set used.

If I buy new I wouldn't need to do any refinishing or painting,.

Gonna have a set of S2000 projectors retrofitted which is so worth the extra. Gotta go with the best especially since I do a ton of night driving.
 
#25 ·
I ended up buying a new set of Depo housing for the retrofit on my 04. If you have the extra cash, I'd recommend doing it. It really makes them seem like new headlights and not just retrofitted old ones. It's nice not having to worry about refinishing the lenses.

For this second set I bought for my 08, they were used but very clean. I was initially going to go with a Depo set from ebay, but would be paying the same price, if not more for these lightly used OEM 08 sports lights for. I decided to go the OEM route.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Had an installer put in this badass alarm system the other day. And this time the remote start was installed correctly, and for a really good price, unlike when I took my gold 04 to a big name shop (hint: their initials are A and E) for a clifford 2-way remote start install. That shop couldn't find the neutral safety switch and so they wired it to the e-brake switch. All seemed fine, it would only start if the e-brake was up/on, except it was 100% up to me to remember whether or not I left the car in gear if I wanted to remote start it. Luckily for me I always made sure I remembered whether I left it in neutral or in gear.
When wired correctly to the neutral safety switch like this guy did, if the car is in gear, the remote start system will present a "remote start error" on the key fob and prevent the car from starting as a safety precaution. No more worrying about it starting in gear.

Components in picture:
- Viper 5706v 2-way remote start alarm
- Install Essentials 507M Tilt Sensor
- Directed Electronics 520T Back-Up Battery System
- Directed Electronics 506T I.T. Audio Sensor
- Directed Electronics 504D Double Guard Stinger Shock Sensor (returned, it already comes with one)



 
#27 ·
My current issue: There's a leak somewhere and the compressor is much louder than any one I've ever heard in other subaru's.

AC isn't blowing cold and compressor initially didn't turn on. Added r134a, and now it does, but with a weird ratcheting/scratching sort of noise. My brother said it sounded like the buzzing from high-voltage power lines. It only happens when the compressor kicks in. According to the previous owner (the guy who owned it after Arnold btw), "the AC was blowing cold in August. [he hasn't] used it in a while". I'm guessing the compressor was sitting motionless without oil for so long that the internal piston may be going bad. Do I need a new compressor? Should I run it like this for an extended period of time or swap it out asap?
Also, the belt is fraying, but I've already bought a replacement.



More detailed info:
I went to go use the AC a few days ago and noticed the compressor didn't turn on when I pushed the button inside to turn it on. Called my mechanic, he said the system could be empty and to buy a recharge bottle. I bought a bottle and started to fill it up, sure enough when pressure was added to the system again it kicked back in, albeit with a weird ratcheting, scratching sound. I filled it up to the recommended pressure but noticed it wasn't blowing that cold. Tired, I called it quits for the night.
The next morning I went outside to test it. Turned the AC on and the compressor didn't turn on... hmm. I connected the bottle and noticed the pressure was low. Added a tiny bit more r134a and the compressor kicked back in. When I was filling it I was outside with an ambient temp af 64°, I noticed that every time the needle would land on the recommended pressure—around 30psi—and then fall off to around 15psi when I released the fill lever. It didn't want to stay at 30psi. There must be a leak somewhere. I may just take it to a specialist.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I bought barely used Feal 441 Tarmac coilovers from another member and put em on a couple weeks ago. 7k/5k spring rate. I love the ride. Very smooth, yet responsive at the same time. Less bouncy than the Feal revalved JDM FSTi struts and STi pink springs that came with the car. Arguably the best coil-over you can get for the price. And they come standard with Swift Springs!







I went over Mike08SportsXT's place to install them, but I forgot that I had removed my lug key from my car when i was cleaning it. So I had to wait another day :(



Ended up having a couple buddies help me out.



Before:

Huge size difference


After:



These are WRX coilovers. As far as I know Feal doesn't make Forester specific coilovers. However, the only difference is that the strut body is shorter. max height on these coilovers will give you about a 2 finger wheels gap, similar to wrx or sti takeoffs.

Next up, since these coilovers have around 100 miles on them I'll give them another week or so to settle, then I'll get a basic alignment. I'll get the precise alignment and corner balance from West End once I get my next set of wheels/tires and dial in the exact ride height I want.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Stopped by a highly recommended fender roller's place. Eric is a cool guy and has been doing it for years. Rolled the fenders on his Cobra, friends noticed and wanted him to do theirs, and his business picked up from there. $20/fender for his experience level, Ill take it! https://instagram.com/ebcobra/
His Cobra has been featured in a few magazines and is pushing 700hp.

He has a few rollers, but only uses them for the rears. He does the front by hand because of how fragile the front fenders on many cars, especially Subarus, are. Applying outward pressure with a fender roller would bend the fender, or the mounting tabs.


Yes, that's a MASSIVE Hotwheels collection.

 
#30 · (Edited)
Current ride height that I'm happy with. The goal was to get rid of the wheel gap, and that's it! No slamming this car for me. The suspension geometry with the subframe spacer removal and roll center correction kit has been much improved so now she likes to sit low! :smile2:




I took these pics before the fender rolling but the ride height is the same. You can see that of the front fender lip was pulled down. Happened on big freeway dips. It's fixed now though.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Spurred by the record hot winter temperatures that we're going through in LA, I finally got around to fixing my air conditioning problem. After going through 2 recharge bottles and still not having any cold air, I was told by my mechanic that the compressor was the problem. Also the loud noise it was making just didn't sound right. I bought a remanufactured ac compressor that came pre-filled with PAG oil from an ebay seller and picked it up from their warehouse in Anaheim. Installed it and took it to a shop to vacuum and recharge the system.

Removing the existing compressor was a pretty straight forward process. However, in my case, because of the 6-speed and the subframe spacer removal, my motor sits slightly higher and more forward. There's barely any clearance between the radiator fans and the belt tensioner, so the radiator had to be removed! That's ok because I've been wanting to swap my thinner 36mm Koyo from the last car out with the 53mm that was in this car anyway!

That's somewhere around 1/8" clearance! :icon_eek: Definitely too close for comfort, even if it's been like that for a while.



Radiator and fans removed, now I have easy access!! Removing the serpentine belts was a breeze.



The AC serpentine belt was fraying and lost a notch as well.



Next up, removing the compressor. There are 4 bolts holding the compressor, and a 5th one holding a lower bracket that all need to be loosened. You won't be able to pull the bolts out, but as long as they're loose the compressor will break free. The lower, rear-most bolt was the hardest to get to. Having a ratchet with a flex joint is about the only way it could be taken out because the lack of much wiggle room. It may also help to remove the bolt holding the oil dipstick that way you can push it slightly out of the way without bending it.




And it's out! Side by side with the replacement. Look at all the leakage and dirt buildup on top of the old compressor!




Reinstallation was the same process in reverse. I did however have to splice on the old connector to the new compressor. Took all of 1 minute with the supplied butt connector.




Reinstalled with new belts. I think I gained another 1/8" of clearance, maybe 1/4", haha. A lot less than I thought I would. I think that may be due to the fact that I'm using the OEM radiator brackets which push it further rearward than the Zerosports shroud that came with the car did.




Woohooo working AC!! :woohoo: :Banane02:
 
#34 · (Edited)
During the AC compressor swap I also swapped my thinner 36mm Koyo radiator from my last Forester in and took the older thicker 53mm out. I had originally thought that I'd lose some cooling with the thinner one, but with Mike08SportsXT's help, I discovered that my thinner one was actually a newer, denser version, and had 2 fittings that the older, thicker one didn't have; a water temp gauge bung, and 1 of the overflow nipples that goes to the upper coolant reservoir.



36mm





I wanted to use the fans that came with the car, as they look like the nice Mishimoto fans and they're a tad bit thinner than the OEM ones, but while trying to fit them, I realize that I would have had to cut and re-weld the tabs on the bottom of the thinner radiator to fit them, just like what was done to the old thicker one. So I decided against it. Also, I'm not entirely sure they're Mishimotor fans because they don't say Mishimoto anywhere on them like they're supposed to.

Old one out, and will be listed for sale with the fans shortly






I didn't take pictures of the radiator reinstall, but I put my thinner Koyo back in along with the OEM fans. Thank god I didn't get around to listing those for sale in my partout.
 
#38 ·
During the AC compressor swap I also swapped my thinner 36mm Koyo radiator from my last Forester in and took the older thicker 53mm out. I had originally thought that I'd lose some cooling with the thinner one, but with Mike08SportsXT's help, I discovered that my thinner one was actually a newer, denser version, and had 2 fittings that the older, thicker one didn't have; a water temp gauge bung, and 1 of the overflow nipples that goes to the upper coolant reservoir.
Great job Jimmy. Yeah that older R-core Koyo was a monster. Dibs on the zero-sports shroud if you decide to sell it:grin2:.

I'm a little unsure about the blue now. It worked great in my last Forester with the gold paint, but I'm just... I don't know yet...I feel like there's too many colors in the engine bay. I may change it up.
Hmm...I say keep 'em but plastidip them black...lol. I don't want to be the only '08 DGM foz sports with a ninja'd-out engine bay.

 
#35 · (Edited)
Swapped out 1 STi TMIC for another and cleaned the engine bay yesterday, then reinstalled some of my Subtle Solutions parts. Because the motor sits higher, I now can't use the Chimney duct that's made for Foresters :( . I have a feeling the WRX one will fit, but I'll contact Subtle about it.

Before:



1 STi TMIC, for another STi TMIC with GOOOLD!! :grin2: I also had to swap out the PCV lines since they're a tad different.




Installed my hood struts, Optima yellow top battery, blue fuse box cover, and blue battery bracket. Also removed the JDM FSTi 2.5 badge from the plastic alternator cover and put it on the Subtle alternator cover.

After:



I'm a little unsure about the blue now. It worked great in my last Forester with the gold paint, but I'm just... I don't know yet...I feel like there's too many colors in the engine bay. I may change it up.


...
 
#40 ·
I dropped off the JDM SG9 lip that I got from Hueyduey at the paint shop today. I picked it up from Huey a while ago but the painter has been super busy the last couple of weeks. There is one issue though. I'm not sure where to find the rubber seal that goes between the lip and my bumper. The seal that's on this one is light colored. However, I need the darker seal that comes on the dark colored lips. Anyone know where I can get this?

Double checking the fit. I think it looks good!




Anyone know where can I find this rubber strip? It doesn't looks like something home depot would sell.



 
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