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Old 05-19-2012, 03:39 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Impressive. You've done amazing work on you car.
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:19 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Impressive. You've done amazing work on you car.
thanks, Im in Wisconsin for the summer so I probably won't do much more WOT tuning since I need to make sure my car doesn't blow up. I will end up scaling the CL tuning to make sure the car runs good for normal driving however. I also plan on getting the engine built after this summer so I will be able to turn up the boost.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:38 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Well I found a slow oil leak looks like it was coming from the oil pan or the oil cooler gasket. I'm not 100% positive where its at so I figured I change out the oil cooler gasket and reseal the oil pan. Since the pan is going to come off, I figured why go through the hassle without changing the oil pick up so I don't blow my engine due to the crappy pickup. I ended up picking up a covert performance oil pick up. I will let everyone know how it fits. If anyone has any tips on getting to the back bolts on the pan let me know. I figured Id jack up the engine to get to them.



Anything I'm missing besides a 12 pack of beer.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:47 PM   #94 (permalink)
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when i resealed mine i just jacked it up or lifted the engine up about 4"s

and is that both oil cooler gaskets?
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:42 PM   #95 (permalink)
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when i resealed mine i just jacked it up or lifted the engine up about 4"s

and is that both oil cooler gaskets?
I was able to get to the bolts by jacking up the engine. I just jacked it up enough to rethread the nuts back on and lowered it down. It also helped to have a 1/4 drive and extension and swivel. I also used a cordless impact driver which helped a ton. I only needed to change the top gasket of the cooler when you take that 24mm bolt/pipe out. I did have to jack up the engine another inch to get to one of the bolts in the back but other than that it was fairly simple, just took some time and patience.



Figured I haven't posted pictures of my car in a while. These are after I just cleaned the engine compartment after I did the oil pan procedure.











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Old 06-17-2012, 01:09 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:10 PM   #97 (permalink)
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omg soo sexy

someone say sleeper?

all you need to do is paint those tbolt clamps flat black imo
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:13 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Wow you don't see many BW turbos on Subies. Foresters especially. Nice work!
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:28 PM   #99 (permalink)
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XXR 530 18x8.75 245/50/18

I know it needs moar low but it deffintely doesn't look as high in person. Also the concavness doesn't show as good in person.







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Old 07-03-2012, 03:46 AM   #100 (permalink)
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o hello there rotated turbo. lol ilove the wheels they're the exact 1s i want for mine... how much total did you pay for them if you dont mind me asking? i may be getting the around tax time so i just wanted to budget out my moola before then lol...
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:40 AM   #101 (permalink)
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o hello there rotated turbo. lol ilove the wheels they're the exact 1s i want for mine... how much total did you pay for them if you dont mind me asking? i may be getting the around tax time so i just wanted to budget out my moola before then lol...
I believe for just the rims in that color, it was around $700 shipped. Depending on which tires that should give you a good starting point.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:16 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Well I haven't been on here in a while:

Did a compression test the other day because of high oil consumption.

3---134 psi 4---125 psi
1---129 psi 2---121 psi

They seemed fairly consistent but to low for my liking on a hot motor. Anyways I checked in with my previous tuner and he said the same thing. Anyways I am preparing for an engine build.

So far here is what I plan:

Manley 99.75mm 8.5:1 CR pistons (Purchased Today)
Manley H-Beam Rods (Purchased Today)
King Bearings
ARP Studs
Grimmspeed Thermostat
Top Feed Injector Conversion: Planning on running Five-O Black Ops 1400CC injectors
TGV Deletes
Gates Timing Kit

and I'm sure the list will grow.

But be prepared for pictures. I plan on doing most of the work myself and have already purchased some precision measuring tools to get the correct clearances I am going for.

In the end, I plan on 425-450 whp on pump. I will also be doing the tuning myself.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:29 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Oh dang. OH... DANG.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:14 AM   #104 (permalink)
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haha ya its bad news but good news
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:57 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Some goodies came in. I received my pistons and rods. I also received a bunch of measuring tools and a scale to balance out the components. Here is a teaser pictures along with many more as I measure and weigh the items.




Measuring and Weighing the pistons using a micrometer good to 0.0001". Its been a while since I did some measuring with a micrometer so I took a bunch of measurements until they were consistent.






Piston 1:




Weight: 397.5 g (picture is lying, re-weighed with the piston skirt facing the same as the others)
Diameter: 3.9237 "



Piston 2:




Weight: 397.7 g
Diameter: 3.9237 "



Piston 3:




Weight: 397.6 g
Diameter: 3.9235 "



Piston 4:




Weight: 397.8 g
Diameter: 3.9237 "




So far the pistons seem fairly well balanced and the diameters are within the tolerances I would accept. I will see how the piston pins weigh out to see if I can balance the pistons closer and bring piston 1 closer to the others.


Did some more weighing today:

Pin 1:



Weight: 131.9 g


Pin 2:



Weight: 132.0 g


Pin 3:



Weight: 131.7 g


Pin 4:



Weight: 131.8 g


All of the rings weighed 26.4g. However I think they will change slightly when I need to gap them so I am not taking them into account for picking the correct combination for balancing.






But it looks like my piston weight issue can be solved. The final combinations of pistons and pins are:

Piston 1---Pin 2
Piston 2---Pin 4
Piston 3---Pin 1
Piston 4---Pin 3

This brings all of the pistons+pins to a weight of 529.5 g.
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