The Pumpkin head unit I bought has a bunch of inputs and additional stuff you can buy - one of which is a dash cam. It plugs in via USB into one of the two supplied USB cables, and it seems that only the "Pumpkin" brand camera they supply will work with the system. No biggie, only $30-$40 on ebay (incl shipping from HK!)
So I plugged it in to test that it worked. Once I was happy with that I started to figure out where to route the very long USB cable it came with.
I started by removing the map light enclosure, it was very easy with only 3 screws holding it to the roof.
The A-pillar trim was the biggest piece of **** to try and remove. If you search this, everyone seems to have big problems here. So instead of actually removing it altogether, I managed to undo one of the three or four clips, then pry it away from the chassis just enough to poke the wire down.
Once it was inside the pillar trim I fed it so the USB connector end fell down behind the dash - I grabbed it from underneath the glove box and pulled it all the way through. This was much easier than trying to argue with the damn A-pillar trim haha.
Then I mounted the camera behind the mirror and drilled a small hole in the map light enclosure for the cable to sit in. Very happy with the results.
While I was out looking at my car on this day I pulled out the air intake silencer and hacked it up.
I started by removing the wheel, peeling back the arch liner, unbolting the resonator from the top (engine bay) and bottom (inside the wheel arch) and slowly, painfully maneuvering it downwards around the metal bar that it sits on.
Then I cut it in half
I wanted to put the direct air feed back in, but without the big bulky resonator - so I cut a piece of the resonator box out with my dremel so it would cover the hole in the bottom of the air feed
After lots of dremel-ing I finally ended up with a piece that fit snugly. A little (lot) of silicone to hold it in place and also seal it as much as possible
While I was waiting for the silicone to dry I read some more about resonator replacement and it seemed like a good idea to drill some small holes in the bottom in case of water etc. Don't know how necessary this was but the stock resonator did have it so I figured it must be worthwhile.
Sitting in place in the stock position - minus the resonator box itself
This is how it looks from the engine bay with the filter removed so I could grip it and move it properly into place.
I then replaced the stock intake air feed from the front of the engine bay as well.
The sound is noticeable now. Not a HUGE difference but I can definitely hear it spool up when I come onto boost. I drove around for a day with the air feed out while I was waiting for the silicone to dry and I was too lazy to put it back in straight away - I have to say I much preferred this noise. Spooling sounded great and the BPV dump sound was quite audible too but not a massive *crack* sound like a real BOV, a little more subtle. I dig it.