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Old 05-25-2010, 03:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY crank pulley wrench

There are 2 different pin sizes for the spanner wrench pins that fit into the crank pulley this is regarding the 11.8mm size, the other size is 7.5mm. For dimensions on the 7.5mm, post 11 by guylr. There is not much to it and posting it on here was an after thought so there are only pics of the finished product, however I don't think step by step pics, directions are really needed as I hope if you are doing a job that requires this, you are able to fill in the blanks on your own, I have made sure to give the dimensions that are needed. There are 100+ ways you could do this. So here is a simple, over built home brew spanner wrench, total time working on it about 1 hour.

Materials list:

-Metal plate, roughly 4" x 8", 3/8" aluminum plate in this case(what I had). I would say as thin as 3/16" aluminum would do fine and 3/16" - 1/4" steel plate would do. Mine was 5" x 8" and trimmed corners as you can see in the pics, really the only reason to trim it down is aesthetics. A rectangle would be just as effective.

-Pipe, as long as you want your handle, Mine happens to be 1.5" diameter 1/16" wall I had laying around. For other stuff like this I have used 3/4"-1" black iron pipe as it is cheap or 1" square tubing.

-1/2" x 2" bolts with nuts(QTY 4), to become the pins. I ground off the exposed threads of the bolts I used to allow some more wiggle room, however they do fit with our removing the threads. You could also use smaller diameter bolts and of coarse reduce the size of the hole you drill for them.

-3/8" bolts with matching nuts & washers(QTY 2 bolts/nuts, 4 washer), to bolt handle to the plate. Add the thickness of the materials you are using and get appropriate length bolts.

Tools, just the basics(get as fancy as you want, this was done at home. If I did it at work it would have been on a CNC mill):

-cutting utensil, hacksaw, bandsaw, jigsaw.... to cut the plate with if needed, desired.

-drill, I think this one is self explanatory. Again I hope you can fill in some blanks.

-9/16" drill bit, to drill the holes for the 1/2" bolts. One of those stepped drill bits works great for this for people who don't have a drill that can fit a 9/16" drill. Yes 9/16" holes for 1/2" bolts, it allows for error when drilling and will give you some wiggle room to work with to align the bolts.

-3/8" drill bit, to drill the holes to attach the handle.

-1.5" hole saw, to cut the center access hole for the pulley bolt.

-basic hand tools to assemble, here is that fill in the blank thing again


Key dimensions

The center hole, must be big enough to pass a 22MM socket through(roughly 1 1/4" OD), a 1 1/2" will allow you to pass the pulley bolt through it, though you really don't need to.

The holes for the pins, are on a 2.5" circle or 1.25" from the center in a evenly spaced square pattern, the holes are 1.78" from center to center.

Bolts for the handle, place as you see fit.














Total cost, $12 in hardware. The plate and pipe were on hand.

Thought this may help a few of the automatic owners in the future. The manuals owners can just put the transmission in 5th/6th gear.
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Last edited by flstffxe; 11-13-2010 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Beautifully simple. I love homemade tools. Subscribed.
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I wish I had loosened up the crank pulley on my EJ251 before i pulled it out.
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Old 05-31-2010, 05:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There is that too, now I just need to make one for the 7.5mm size pins.
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Old 06-14-2010, 02:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Impressive! This sure beats the old set the breaker bar in place and bump the key/starter method.

How do you know the pin size (11.8mm or 7.5mm) without getting in there and checking the pulley (I have a 2006 NA A/T)?
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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it is plainly obvious once you take a look at it. The pulley with 11.8mm pins is a flat faced pulley, the one with the 7.5mm pins has a fairly deep dish to it. The difference can be seen just by looking at it while the car is still together.

My assumption is that on the newer cars, the autos use the 7.5mm while the MTs use the 11.8mm. Most all of the older stuff uses 11.8mm auto or MT.
My 5MT = 11.8mm
The misses 4EAT = 7.5mm

I have not had a chance to get the spacing for the 7.5mm. If any one wants to get the dimensions for the hole spacing it would be appreciated.
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Congratulations on another great thread and a fine homemade tool, it's folks like you that make an automotive forum great. Please keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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great thread. The oldest Forester in the family (1999) and the one on deck for a new belt is a manual so this won't be needed; 'daughter's 2007 is an auto, though; this will come in handy when the time comes. Thanks!.
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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This is really great. Thanks for your efforts. Building this is definitely worthwhile. I always look forward to your insights on things. Your posts are always a must read.


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Old 10-10-2010, 06:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would like to add Crawlers version to the mix. This is easy, use what you got people

Quote:
Originally Posted by crawler View Post
Here is my homemade crankshaft pulley removal tool. since my car is an automatic, putting the car in 5th and stepping on the brake was not an option. The bolt holes are not lined up for greater strength.



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Old 11-13-2010, 12:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flstffxe View Post
it is plainly obvious once you take a look at it. The pulley with 11.8mm pins is a flat faced pulley, the one with the 7.5mm pins has a fairly deep dish to it. The difference can be seen just by looking at it while the car is still together.

My assumption is that on the newer cars the autos use the 7.5mm while the MTs use the 11.8mm. Most all of the older stuff uses 11.8mm auto or MT.
My 5MT = 11.8mm
The misses 4EAT = 7.5mm

I have not had a chance to get the spacing for the 7.5mm. If any one wants to get the dimensions for the hole spacing it would be appreciated.
I just finished the timing belt job on my 2001 OBS 4EAT. The pulley on it has the 7.5mm holes (closer to 7.8mm). The hole circle on the pulley is 77mm through the hole centers. The bolts on the tool need to be 55mm apart center to center.

I made my pulley holder tool out of a 4.5" x 8" piece of 1/8" steel plate bolted to a 4 foot long pine 2x6. I used 45mm long 8mm bolts with nuts on both sides of the plate so I could adjust the depth on the bolts if needed. I ground down the treads on the first 10mm or so of each bolt just a little to make them smaller in diameter. I had to do a little tweaking with a big hammer to get the bolts to line up. Worked great.

BTW flstffxe, thanks for the inspiration. All together I saved over $600 on the $900 quote I got from my local Subaru dealership and that included all the Gates branded pulleys, tensioner, belt and OE Aisin water pump I got from Rock Auto.

Guy
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Old 11-13-2010, 02:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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^^Thank you. I will direct the info for the 7.5mm pins down to your post.
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Clever thinking and enginuity guys!!! Just awesome!!!
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I really should build a crank pulley tool, cheaper then cutting up belts that are still good for use with a chain wrench. My SOHC has a plastic cam pulley on the RHS with a ~80mm hex head cast into it, still mysterfied with this one.
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Um!!! I just shove a pry-bar through the peep hole on the passenger side. I jam the teeth on the flywheel and call it a day!!!

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