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Does anyone recognize this modification?

14K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  Almostunseen 
#1 ·
Dear All, I found this image online.

Would very much like to change my Subaru Forester 2010 to this configuration. Would anyone be able to recognize what the modifications are? I would very much appreciate it.
 

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#9 · (Edited)
It isn't lifted at all! I run the same tires and they are fine with no lift.
This guy is on ozfoz and reddit under the username "furto" (no quotations)
The mods the guy has on:
26th of April - 2013: Purchased Forester / Drove from the car dealer to oxtrail's place and did a resonator delete / Added HKS filter
30th of April - 2013: Picked up a set of stock forester steel rims I had powder-coated black a few weeks before. Took them and got 215/70/16 BFGoodrich All Terrains put on.
Powder-coating from a company called Stripco in Revesby - $330 inc gst
Tyres from JAX Tyres Sutherland - $200ea
3rd of May - 2013: Added Hella Horns and sports mesh grille
Hella horns on ebay - $55 shipped
Genuine Subaru Forester Sport Mesh Grill - about $270 shipped
9th of May - 2013: Added front and rear whiteline sway bars. 22mm adjustable.
BSF39Z - Front 22mm heavy duty blade adjustable
BSR49XZ - Rear 22mm X heavy duty blade adjustable
Note: I ordered these from Sutherland Repco and saved $56 compared to ordering from the whiteline site.
16th of May - 2013: ThrottleHappy Tune... wow... what a difference! +35kw, +2.5psi boost, 20% better fuel economy :D


His build thread, his the full list of mods:
http://ozfoz.com.au/forum/viewtopic...k=t&sd=a&sid=3a2e1cd48f85ad756e93b6599bb19e43
 
#21 ·
It isn't lifted at all! I run the same tires and they are fine with no lift.
This guy is on ozfoz and reddit under the username "furto" (no quotations)
The mods the guy has on:
26th of April - 2013: Purchased Forester / Drove from the car dealer to oxtrail's place and did a resonator delete / Added HKS filter
30th of April - 2013: Picked up a set of stock forester steel rims I had powder-coated black a few weeks before. Took them and got 215/70/16 BFGoodrich All Terrains put on.
Powder-coating from a company called Stripco in Revesby - $330 inc gst
Tyres from JAX Tyres Sutherland - $200ea
3rd of May - 2013: Added Hella Horns and sports mesh grille
Hella horns on ebay - $55 shipped
Genuine Subaru Forester Sport Mesh Grill - about $270 shipped
9th of May - 2013: Added front and rear whiteline sway bars. 22mm adjustable.
BSF39Z - Front 22mm heavy duty blade adjustable
BSR49XZ - Rear 22mm X heavy duty blade adjustable
Note: I ordered these from Sutherland Repco and saved $56 compared to ordering from the whiteline site.
16th of May - 2013: ThrottleHappy Tune... wow... what a difference! +35kw, +2.5psi boost, 20% better fuel economy :D


His build thread, his the full list of mods:
OzFoz.com ? Login
Besides stock SG Forester 16" steel wheels, are there any other steel wheels out there that would fit with 215/70/16 BFGoodrich A/T tires? I mean high end steel wheels, not the 16" ones that the base models come with.
 
#11 ·
Thanks alot for your replies. It is very interesting, because I did not think that 215/70/16 BFGoodrich A/T tires would not fit in without 1" lift.

The owner of this mod (images below) said that the rear wheel/tire combination was "really a tight fit and on occasion he had it "glued" with snow. This was with 1" subtle solutions lift. Not sure how it would be without lifting it.

Land vehicle Vehicle Tire Car Alloy wheel


Tire Automotive tire Tread Auto part Synthetic rubber
 
#14 · (Edited)
In Germany we have very strict and strong rules concerning the modifying of cars and tires sizes- it isn't allowed nearly everything as it's allowed in a lot of American states.
If there's even the little-bitty possibility of rubbing such a tire size is forbidden here explicitly.

I own an official list from Subaru Germany about all in Germany allowed tire sizes for the Forester SH.
There's listed the size 215/70/R16 - and that means: With 215/70/R16 on a stock Forester SH can't be any rubbing.

But some of the allowed tire sizes have to be registered by the local admission board.

I suppose, that the list is relevant for whole Europe as well.

If someone is interested in this list (excel file) I can send it by PM.
 
#16 ·
Sway bars makes on road handling a lot better, stops body roll.
I would definately reccomend NOT getting them if you are making an offroad vehicle as they limit articulation and if you do some serious offroading with stronger sway bars it puts a lot of strain on the sway bar mounts and can snap them.

My plan was to get thicker sway bars for the road and then disconnect them for offroad. Though sadly no one makes sway bar disconnect kits for the forester, so it's all DIY.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Larger sway bars stiffen up the chassis - generally speaking, increasing front diameter alone increases understeer (or bias towards understeer) and increasing rear diameter alone increases oversteer. For reference, understeer is what most cars, especially FWD-biased platforms, do, and oversteer is tail-happiness (back stepping out in corning, etc.)
Stiffer sway bars can also limit articulation offroad (you'll loose traction or c**k (Edit: drat, uh, ?lift?) a wheel more easily on off-camber stuff).


The sway bars aren't a looks or cosmetic thing at all though; so if you're just trying to match the looks, you can leave the factory sway bars on.


Edit: When I say 'chassis', I am referring the rolling chassis, not simply the unibody structure/frame.
 
#20 ·
Lol. Looks like he's running my setup.

Those are SG steel wheels powder coated satin black. 215/70 R16 BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO's.

Those tires have VERY minimal rubbing on the SG Forester's, if at all. Other people running SH Forester's with these size tires have been reporting similar, little or no rubbing at all (and when we talk rubbing, I'm talking a slight rub at full lock when turning). A lift does nothing in terms of fitting these tires better. They'll perform the same either way.

The tires fit just fine without a lift, in fact, they seem to fit better at stock height. Doing a 1" lift without a trailing arm spacer causes your rear tires to move forward within the wheel well, therefore getting the front of the tires closer to the front of the wheel well. Doing a "proper" lift with the proper sized trailing arm spacer corrects the geometry of the rear suspension. Doing any sort of lift without adding a trailing arm spacer on the rear to correctly re-center the rear wheels is altering the natural movement of the stock suspension geometry, and can in part, have negative results with ride and handling.

Also, sway bars have NOTHING to do with stiffening up the chassis. It's a bar that is bolted to the chassis is all. The stiffer the bar, the less it will flex when taking a corner as the sway bars are connected to each wheels' control arm/lateral link. The only thing this stiffens up is the ride quality, but it will allow the car to not roll as much in the corners. But again, it has nothing to do with stiffening of the chassis. It's not bracing. They will limit articulation, but anytime you go off road, you can easily disconnect them. (which is what I do). Driving on the road without sway bars can get old fast.
 
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