Attach snatch strap to where? and How? - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Question Attach snatch strap to where? and How?

I have a 2004 Forester X and i'm taking it onto the beach up north. I have a snatch strap and d shakles. I only have standard tie down points at the front of the car. Is it ok to snatch off one of these points or should a shackle a chain / strap to both points and attach the snatch strap to that?? It would be easier to go off one point, but worried about bending car or tie down?? Back of car is no problem, I'm taking toe ball off the toe bar so a D shackle can go in its place.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boonie View Post
I have a 2004 Forester X and i'm taking it onto the beach up north. I have a snatch strap and d shakles. I only have standard tie down points at the front of the car. Is it ok to snatch off one of these points or should a shackle a chain / strap to both points and attach the snatch strap to that?? It would be easier to go off one point, but worried about bending car or tie down?? Back of car is no problem, I'm taking toe ball off the toe bar so a D shackle can go in its place.

Thanks.
From what I heard the tie down points in the forester are so weak you probely just bend them if anything at all.

07 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 5EAT
99 Forester: Sold
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 02:45 PM
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Depends how stuck you are. I've used the stock front ones to pull my friends out of ditches and it was no problem (using only a single point).

04xt/4eat, 16g, STI bits and bobs
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 03:14 PM
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Do you have the screw that goes into the bumper?
There should be a cap you remove on the front and rear bumper.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have the screw that goes into the bumper?
There should be a cap you remove on the front and rear bumper.
I don't hink my model has that. 2004 Forester? You can see model in pic at first post..
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 11:01 AM
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Same model year as mine.

You can use just one recovery point up front. I have many times. And one is bent... If you're dealing with sand and deeper recoveries (ie, lots of weight and drag) I'd get a tree strap (short tow strap) with 2 shackles and hook that to both recovery points. You can then attach your tow strap via a shackle to the tree strap. That works great.

Dash: '03 XS MT
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 05:21 PM
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It's best to snatch off both points. As per above get either a tree trunk protector or a "distribution" strap. You should not heavily snatch a monocoque chassis from a single point or you could distort it.

Also, the tow car driver needs to be aware that because of the lightness of the Subie a full-on snatch is not usually necessary and could damage the car.

MY'03 XS AT offroad; MY10 Triton GLX-R
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 06:23 AM
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Yes good point Kevin about the snatch strap. I do have one, but it doesn't have the stretch of many of them. Found one at a local shop that was more of a cross between a regular snatch strap and a plain tow rope.

Dash: '03 XS MT
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 03:17 PM
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Although I have not yet needed to recover my Forester, I have a Tree Bridel (truck protector). I got mine from downunder camping, its made by bush ranger 3.2T SWL

Tree Trunk Protector - Bushranger

I use two 4T Shackles from ARB ($10) to link the front two points together.

At ther rear I use an 8T snatch from the hayman Reece pin that holds the tongue of the tow ball.

As a note the recovery weight of a vehicle is not much higher in sand than the fully loaded weight of the vehical. Amazing I know, but there isn't much holding the car back, its just lack of traction that prevents you driving out of the whole, especially when there is no wight on the wheels.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin View Post
full-on snatch is not usually necessary and could damage the car.
This is actually more true for ALL 4WDs, unless you are recovering a 5 Tonne truck with a conventional 4WD then you never need more than 1st/2nd low range, and not more than 1st high range for a gentle tug to free a vehical.

Provided you have cleared sand away from the body and created ramps in front of each wheel, a gentle tug should see the vehical free and able to drive out mostly on its own steam.

In theory...
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 05:07 PM
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Although I have not yet needed to recover my Forester,

Then you must not be trying hard enough to get stuck.

MY'03 XS AT offroad; MY10 Triton GLX-R
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 05:11 PM
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Then you must not be trying hard enough to get stuck.
These things take time!

I'm towing a camper trailer through Noosa Northshore/Double island in May, I may finally get to recover my car! Although I will be taking Maxtraxx on that trip as I will be on my own.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 06:08 PM
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Although I have not yet needed to recover my Forester,
Boy I remember when I could say that.

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