I think I saw that the stock sub in the XT's is a 6x9"??? Please correct me if I'm wrong.. I saw this and wanted to share.. A good potential upgrade if you wanted to stick with the 6x9 size... I'm also no expert on reading subwoofer specs, but it looks like it might be a decent upgrade from stock with a smaller single channel amp maybe. Possibly a good mid-bass to fit that slot, combined with a 10 or 12" in a sealed box for a full-blown system.
Ah yes.. That's where I saw the modded coax speaker.
So the only thing about the above tang band woofer is the impedence.. would have to throw an amp at it that can perform well at that higher impedence level... I did also see this one that specs out at 4ohms that might be a better option:
Specifications: Power Handling: 80 watts RMS/160 watts max *VCdia: 3" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.2 ohms *Frequency range: 40-350 Hz *Fs: 40 Hz *SPL: 88 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 1.65 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.29 *Qes: .28 *Qts: .25 *Xmax 5.5 mm *Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 2-3/16".
Ah yes.. That's where I saw the modded coax speaker.
So the only thing about the above tang band woofer is the impedence.. would have to throw an amp at it that can perform well at that higher impedence level... I did also see this one that specs out at 4ohms that might be a better option:
Specifications: Power Handling: 80 watts RMS/160 watts max *VCdia: 3" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.2 ohms *Frequency range: 40-350 Hz *Fs: 40 Hz *SPL: 88 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 1.65 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.29 *Qes: .28 *Qts: .25 *Xmax 5.5 mm *Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 2-3/16".
You can always find a impedence matching device if you want but having the new speaker being 4ohm vs. 1.9ohm would just have a less power drain on the amp so you should be okay, no?
Since the OEM "sub amp" puts out about 18w RMS @2 ohm, a 4 ohm speaker will recieve about 1/2 that. The performance might not be very good, which will lead to bumping the bass up to compensate which leads to distortion and destruction of the speaker.
I think a hi-low converter and a small 50w amp would work wonders with a replacement 6x9.
Yeah, I forgot about the low power but wouldn't it be more efficient than the stock sub so w/ 1/2 the wattage it would still sound better, no? Best to do a separate amp, though.
Yeah.. on the stock head unit, these subs wouldn't be ideal at all.. I was thinking something like one of these 6x9s might work with a sub amp in a pinch for a stock looking setup utilizing the existing sub mount with an aftermarket head unit with preouts.
I'm eventually ebaying the head unit, going completely aftermarket with a head unit, amps, and component speakers.
Far better solution.. Thanks sea-scooby. That is a great thread by the way.. finally read all the way through it.. They even mention running a shallow-mount 10" in that location.. very cool.
if you have the stock sub. You can actually re-use the 6x8 metal bracket with an 8". You just have to either trim it or bend it to fit the 8". Oh yeah you may also have to stack a 1/4" wood spacer between to even it out.
I'm seeing all kinds of shallow mount possibilities..
I wonder how the MB Quarts might fare... Might even be able to shoe-horn a 12" in there.. Though a 10" would be a safer bet.
that should be fine. Since it's larger than an 8", it will end up being mounted lower, so you will gain a little bit more mounting depth(the depth increases towards the bottom of the cavity).
I say go for it, you'll get so much more umph. Just do a good job at guesstimating the enclosures volume.
I think that MB quart might work pretty good. It looks like the front mount magnet will prevent the cone from hitting the grill/trim which can be a problem with some longer throw subs.
Recommeded sealed dimensions on the MB Quart are .5-1 Cubic Foot. There's probably only half that available in the stock location. An 8 designed for a smaller enclosure will sound better.
You can get well over 1.0 cu ft out of the stock location. You just have to use the airspace over the fender and to the right of it. You can probably seal off around 2 cu. ft. if you use all available space.
Got a friend with a set of mb quart components that would go nicely upfront as well.. Though I just bought the car and the budget is BLOWN (ouch), I'm getting some designs together for a decent system.. It'll take me some time to accumulate gear. Considering some pretty efficient amps such as the ICEpower amps on the market now as I'm hearing the alternator on these cars isn't necessarily a beast. As the technology is ever-changing with head units, that will probably be the last part.. Something with excellent dac's, time alignment, Ipod control and bluetooth. Probably just a really good 2.1 setup, as I don't much see the benefit of the rear door speakers unless there are some pretty decent mid-bass drivers that will fit those rear doors.
On the shallow mount subs... JL Audio is also getting into it....
The only problem with most shallow mount subs is they are either crap, or they require a ton of power and have a huge excursion which will cause issues with hitting the trim panel.
In other words, stepping up to a 10 that will actually fit won't buy you much. But hey, I don't like stock area subs anyway. Too much crap to rattle if you're giving good power to a decent speaker back there.
Yeah the excursion may be a problem.. might get away with a trim ring as a spacer depending on the sub to hold the panel/grill at some distance away from the sub.. Though just going by memory.. might not have any free play with the panel placement if it's a pretty tight fit.
That is a good point... might do well just to bite the bullet with an external box... maybe build something inconspicuously molded into that side area, like a q-logic or JL or similar.
The stock location is a good spot, you just need to do it right is all. I have zero rattles with mine and the bass response is very smooth and clean. With the right song it is powerful enough to make your skin tingle and the hairs on your neck to stand up.
If you want some monster kick you in the stomach bass you'll need to go a different route, but if you are looking to add some decent lowend to your system and keep it stealthy then it is a good location.
Why go with an external box when a 10" fill fit nicely in the spare wheel. Gives a couple more inches of depth than the stock location and is much easier to access.
Why go with an external box when a 10" fill fit nicely in the spare wheel. Gives a couple more inches of depth than the stock location and is much easier to access.
Yeah I saw that.. Neat idea if it works well.. Interesting idea to use the spare tire as a pseudo-sealed enclosure.
.. Cargo tray in the back of mine though.. plus the foam cargo bin under the carpet (I'll have to take another look at.. only seen it in a quick glance in the showroom).
From what I'm reading though.. Looks like the "oem location", I'll call it, will potentially accommodate a 10" if: 1. you're inventive to get enough enclosure volume, 2. it doesn't rattle against the inside trim and 3. enough mounting depth. Enough foam, mdf and raamatt and it should be pretty rattle-free I'd think.
if you want to keep it light, powerful and to the point, the Raam sub enclosure fits neatly under the passenger seat with minor mods. It features a high SQ Arc sub in 10" diameter. This is being powered (along with the AMAZING CDT separates) by an Alpine digital PDX4150 four channel that simply doen't get hot, doesn't suck amperage and fits easily under the driver's seat.
The trick here is convincing Rick at Raam in making you one.
While I agree with Sea on making the stock sub location work well, I just don;t have the skills or patience to do that with that location. The slightest rattle with a 10 tucked in the back can be easily localized since most of these have to be low passed at a pretty high Hz reading. The underseat sub is up front, so it can play up pretty high without being localized. Plus, the way Rick designed the box, it simply doesn't rattle.
And here's my suggestion for what could possibly be the ultimate in stealth, efficient and crankin' forester audio systems:
- one Alpine PDX 4x150 delivering 250 watts to each of your high sq components
- one PDX 1x1000 feeding mega juice into...
- this sub http://www.criticalmassaudio.com/catalog/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2
- stuffed in a Raam box...hopefully reinforced for the 1000 watts of butt rumble for the passenger.
the beauty is that the PDX 1000 will fit right on top (they are designed to be stacked) of the pdx 4150, AND fit under the drivers seat....or even next to it. 1500 under the seat (and Alpine's ratings are musical power too, as tested by Car Audio, etc.) is the madness...
just a suggestion that I hope someone explores :Banane28:
holy smokes, a $500 sub? It better vibrate the hair off my b*lls at that price...
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